Putting in a kitchen dining room pass thru--advice

[gassy]

So I'm gonna punch this out and was mainly inquiring as to what type of header I need to put in--it's not a load bearing wall so I was thinking of 3 stacked 2x4's. Any advice is appreciated.
Christian.

[gassy]

[Rot 911]

If it is just going to be an opening you probably don't even need a header, just frame it out. Keep in mind, assuming you do use a header, that the board, typically a 2x6 or 2x8 depending on the load, is on its side and not flat. You stack on side to get depth and strength and not height.

[Rot 911]

[gassy]

Thanks Kurt

[Jim Richards]

Putting in a pass through over the stove? I wouldn't.

[sammyg2]

I did this to my house years ago and basically followed what Kurt has shown minus the cripples and lower sill.

[Dueller]

Structurally I don't think its a problem. However, I don't think its a good idea from a design perspective. First its too high above the counter to serve any real function. Second, you will lose a lot of upper cabinets and the microwave placement. Third, you will lose venting over the stove. Aesthetically you will be hhappier with the upper openeing being inline with the top of the door frame and the lower horizontal opening being counter (36" from floor) or bar height (42 inches). This would requires getting a slide in range rather than the free standing range you have now.

[126coupe]

What about the exhaust, ??

[VincentVega]

That was my first thought. I guess a downdraft range is an option.

[tcar]

Trying to figure out what happend to my post... just disappeared... was right after Minkoff's.

[Burnin' oil]

My sister did what you are planning and it worked out great. No issue with the stove. Use 2x6 for the header. Don't forget to sandwich 1/2" plywood to match thicknesses.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I had the same situation as you and I took the whole wall down. I widened the doorway opening and put a breakfast bar in its place. Yes, I downdraft oven. Its really not all that hard on a non load bearing wall. Actually, its not all that hard even on a load bearing wall if you know how to do it, the labor is the easy part.

[cstreit]

How's you get the dotted lines on the wall and cabinet like that? Oh, and they're not level.

[gassy]

Where were you this morning Chris? Now I'm screwed.

[dipso]

Whatever you pull out, you need to replace above.

If you pull out 2 2x4s you will need 2 2x4s as a header, If you pull out eight 2x4s you will need 8 2x4s as a header, or the equivalent header.

That's the general rule.

[dipso]

Oh yeah, don't forget to take into account your new header when determining your height.

Sometimes for a first timer, they forget and end up to short.

[Zeke]

I doubt if that stove is vented to the outside. A downdraft would be a big improvement, but there's no such thing for a free standing stove. Reaching over the burners to pass thru is what, stupid? A new cooktop is in order here, but the design still is very flawed.

[looneybin]

A general rule of thumb on a non-bearing wall header is 1" of depth for every 1'-0" of span IE: a 6'-0" opening would require a 6" deep header. If its bearing, use a 4x12.

[tcar]

Originally Posted by dipso

Whatever you pull out, you need to replace above.

If you pull out 2 2x4s you will need 2 2x4s as a header, If you pull out eight 2x4s you will need 8 2x4s as a header, or the equivalent header.

That's the general rule.

NO. Don't use 2x4's at all. Stacked 2x4's do nothing, even if they are on edge.

Use the 'equivalent'. 2-2x8's or 2-2x10's. Even if it's not bearing. Nail together with a piece of 1/2" plywood between them - like Kurt V's drawing.

Is it a 2 story house? If it is, is this a bearing wall? (i.e. holding up floor or ceiling or roof above?)