Edumakate on wood flooring!

scottmandue · 11-29-2008, 11:23 AM

I have tile in the kitchen, bathroom, and hall and I love it.

When I was building my house I got conned into carpet in the living room and two bedrooms and it just is not working for me.

I'm a bachelor, I like red wine, on occasion I smoke cigars, I eat in the living-room and I spill a lot, I have two cats, thus the carpets look like he11.

I live on a second story with plywood under floors.

I went into a shop to buy some belts for my vacuum cleaner and they sell flooring.

He had some nice looking manufactured (nice word for plywood) flooring for around $6.99 sq./ft quoted me (I think) $3.99 sq/ft to install (maybe $4.99).

I presume the difference of solid vs manufactured is that solid can be sanded down several times if need be however manufactured is more stable and cheaper?

I haven't shopped around but do those prices sound reasonable?

These rooms are simple rectangles, could this be considered as a DIY job?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

Dottore · 11-29-2008, 11:55 AM

Solid is a far superior feel to manufactured in my view. (I have both).

The prices seem good to me.

I wouldn't dream of DIY. But that's just me.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

high laminated wood flooring is pretty good - some say it will wipe out the solid planks...

I have both & both are fine.

cannot DIY planks but the high end laminated pieces are not hard to DIY

Kahrs is said to be top quality

your area sets your pricing...

what is your sub-floor like??

got more specific qestions? like wood vs. marmoleum or vs. something else?

Hugh R · 11-29-2008, 01:52 PM

what ever you go with, check the final height of it. You don't want to find you have to cut off the bottoms of your doors and you might find trouble with getting things like dishwashers and trash compactors to fit back in.

I had mine done by professionals and after seeing what they do, there is no way I'd do it myself. Things like leveling the floor, and you need an extra big miter saw for the newer nice baseboards.

competentone · 11-29-2008, 02:13 PM

The problem with some of the "manufactured" flooring is the backing. Any significant moisture and the backings can de-laminate (or swell in the case of the particle board type backings). The whole category of special "wipes" for flooring is largely driven by the need for cleaning techniques of manufactured floorings that cannot be "mopped."

Personally, I like real wood and would finish all sides before installing to protect against moisture, but that is probably more than the average homeowner would want to pay for, or tackle on their own.

I'd say that all wood flooring is pretty "basic" -- it's something most DIYs would have no problems with if they have good wood-working skills.

I'm not sure on the pricing, but as already noted, labor rates in your area will play a significant roll in your final costs.

JavaBrewer · JavaBrewer's Garage

So to confirm you're doing a living room and two bedrooms, everything is on the second level with an existing wood subfloor, replacing the existing carpet? How old is the place?

fireant911 · 11-29-2008, 02:39 PM

My wife and I did considerable research regarding what we considered the three alternatives: engineered flooring, finished flooring, and the unfinished flooring. We originally were leaning towards the engineered flooring but after seeing some of this first-hand, we opted against this route (plus, there were some downsides to this type of material). The unfinished flooring, although much cheaper, required much more work and did not offer the same 'toughness' as the finished flooring. The finished flooring is dimensionally the same as the unfinished flooring (3/4") and rather solid (the coating was touted as being extremely wear-resistant). This is in stark contrast to the engineered flooring that is essentially just a laminate (and the overall thickness is considerably less). We finally decided on Canadian Maple which came with a 25-year warranty on the finish. This was professionally installed... I would never consider doing this myself - this is an endeavor reserved for the professionals. We are very happy with the results.

KNS · 11-29-2008, 02:46 PM

I did my living room and stairs in my old house, go with the real stuff, it is so much nicer. I used 3/4" oak strip, then sand and then three coats of finish. I just bought a book and followed the intructions, if you do it right it'll last 100 years with refinishing every ten or twenty years or so.

scottmandue · 11-29-2008, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmoolenaar

So to confirm you're doing a living room and two bedrooms, everything is on the second level with an existing wood subfloor, replacing the existing carpet? How old is the place?

Yes, the building is about twenty years old but the second floor was left undone and was being used as storage/hobby room for the front house when I bought the place.

Definitely want wood flooring in the bedrooms. The kitchen, dining room, living room are all contiguous and I would like to continue the 12x12 Spanish tile from the kitchen and dinning room into the living room. A friend assisted me in installing the tile floor in that space and the bathroom, my dad did the kitchen countertop/back splash and the shower. Of course that would depend on me finding more of that exact tile, however I think it is pretty common.

Whoa, just kicking around the numbers and wood flooring is pretty darn expensive! Not sure I can afford over $4K a bedroom.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by KNS

I did my living room and stairs in my old house, go with the real stuff, it is so much nicer. I used 3/4" oak strip, then sand and then three coats of finish. I just bought a book and followed the intructions, if you do it right it'll last 100 years with refinishing every ten or twenty years or so.

but did you already own the giant stapler machines that are required?? they are not cheap...

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

Kahrs can be sanded 3 times. that should do for my lifetime.

all of them have water issues. the "engineered" or laminated floors have worse water issues than planks.
I used marmoleum in my kitchen (tile is really too hard to walk on for me) for that reason.

anthony 911 · 11-29-2008, 05:46 PM

i have 20yrs in wood flooring....do the install.sand finish floor.

msk1986911 · 11-29-2008, 07:01 PM

The most difficult part of the process (IMHO) is laying out the first few courses. From there, the challenge is to have a pleasing pattern for the strip lengths, ensuring that the ends don't stack up less than 6-8". Renting (or having) the right tools makes the job much easier...power miter saw, air compressor and nailer, power saw (Bosch makes a nice one) to cut door jambs and casings.

Evans, Marv · 11-29-2008, 08:03 PM

I'm looking at a similar job, but I don't have a choice. I have enough 3/4 in. X 1 1/2 in. oak flooring to do a 1.6k to 1.7K s.f. house, and I have about 1.5K s.f. I want to do in the house I'm building. I'm pretty handy and seriously thinking of doing the job myself. Besides I helped an installer do a house a long time ago, not that that makes me a professional by a long shot.
But I'm finding soomew installers really don't seem to want to do the work. I've talked to 3 sofar, and one told me he only does jobs where he "glues" the flooring down, the other told me they get $5/s.f. to $7/s.f. for floors with 5 in. to 8 in. planks for installation. That seems like robbery to me. The third said they get around $2.50 to $3.50 per s.f., so I will be talking to him.
The only thing about DIYing it that I'm not sure about is the rough sanding. If you mess that up, you have problems. Maybe by that time I'll find somebody decent to sand and finish it, though I will give it a shot if need be.
If I were you, and had time, I'd look into doing it as a DIY job - especially if it's only two bedrooms that aren't too large.

look 171 · 01:20 AM

all right, I will help you guys out on this one. My floor guy is charging about 9.50 -10 bucks for solid 3/4" select red oak. As we speak, he's finish up a white oak floor for me. i hope next week. This floor was at $10.35 per sq insatlled. clear finish, no stain. I am not a big fan of engineering floors. Only because I am a pain in the a$$ old school type of guy and I try to get my clients into something nice. I am not against them, just don't think its nice as the real thing. Don't forget about the pre finish flooring. the only thing I dislike is the small v-groove between the boards. That might be a bit cheaper.

Marv, run from them. the 5-8" floor will run a real high risk of cupping. 2 1/2 bucks to sand and 2 bucks to finish. between 4-5 bucks sound about right.

Scott, 11 -12 bucks is a bit too much. But then, again, this is a retail store. the price I gave you is for contractors. If its a small floor, of course the price goes up because they can't do it for the sq footage. It should be at around 7-8 bucks installed.

Let the floor sit for at least before you let them install it.

If you need an honest floor man, let me know. i will turn you on to bill.

Jeff

look 171 · 11-30-2008, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msk1986911

The most difficult part of the process (IMHO) is laying out the first few courses. From there, the challenge is to have a pleasing pattern for the strip lengths, ensuring that the ends don't stack up less than 6-8". Renting (or having) the right tools makes the job much easier...power miter saw, air compressor and nailer, power saw (Bosch makes a nice one) to cut door jambs and casings.

bosch now makes a jam saw? what did you pay for it?

rfuerst911sc · 11-30-2008, 03:50 AM

I am a DIYer and have done all the rooms in our house with new floors. No carpet in any of them. One spare bedroom/computer room I did in prefinished parquet squares. These were Bruce brand with peel and stick backing. Been down for about 3 years and looks great with no issues. I then did 2 bedrooms with laminate flooring, different brands and styles but each have been down for 2 years and look great with no wear issues. The master bedroom I did about a year ago with 5/8 thick bamboo which is my favorite floor in the house, very rich looking and easy to install. All of these floors are installed on a concrete slab and other than the parquet they are " floating " floors. The balance of the house and 2 baths are done in tile. If you have DIY skills you can do any of these floors. However it's not easy work and is painful on the knees and back. I do not have any experience with nailed down flooring but I'm assuming you can rent the nailer and go from there.

msk1986911 · 11-30-2008, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

bosch now makes a jam saw? what did you pay for it?

The model is Bosch 1640VS Finecut 3.5 Amp Power Handsaw. Amazon has just the saw for $100. I bought one used (Ebay) that included the saw, a miter box and clamps for less than that. I've used (or misused) the tool for more than its intended purpose...well made and gets the job done.

Mike

KNS · 11-30-2008, 06:28 AM

QUOTE=RWebbbut did you already own the giant stapler machines that are required?? they are not cheap...

I used a hand nailer (you strike it with a hammer). The hammer drives a plunger against the nail and into the wood at a 45 dgree angle. I think it was a couple hundred bucks. If I were to do my whole house I would have bought a power nailer.

Evans, Marv · 11-30-2008, 08:41 AM

Kurt,
I have 3/4 in. X 1 1/2 in. prime red oak to put down. I was just saying I was quoted $5 - $7 per s.f. by an installer saying he charged that to nail down 6 in. to 8 in. T&G. I'm not going for that. I know installing 1 1/2 in. planks is more labor intensive than wider planks, but at near 16K s.f., I can do it myself and save. I'm not made out of money.
I have the saws (except for the jamb saw - I can use a draw saw for that or buy one) and bought a H.F. pheumatic nailer for $119 with a $10 coupon and 15% discount certificate. I figure (I'm hopeful) it should be able to do one job. If it fails, I'll take it back & try another. H.F. also has installer kits with a couple of different shaped bars in it for positioning and tightening planks and plastic spacers to space them from the wall. So Scott, if you are really thinking of doing it yourself, you might check those out.