Refinishing hardwood floors - oak

[deanp]

We have hardwood floors in the front hall, dining room and side hall. The finish is worn, specifically near the front and the slider onto the back deck.

My wife cannot tolerate solvent smells - i.e. polyurethane.

We do not require a polished glossy finish, I would actually prefer a matte / low sheen floor.

I am looking for alternatives to polyurethane that are low odor and durable. I've read some material on refinishing with Tung Oil.

Any feedback on Tung Oil or any other alternatives?

[gr8fl4porsche]

Tung Oil is still used, especially on softer wood like pine.

As for water based floor finishes, they are becoming the new standard due to low odor and quick recoat time.

If you go waterbased ( I did), use a commercial grade 2-component such as Trek Plus or Bona Traffic.

The finish has held up about as well as an oil based urethane and I slept in the house while I did the floors.

[Rot 911]

+1 on the water based finish. In addition, if it is just the finish that is worn and not the stain underneath (i.e., wood is all the same color, just not shiny anymore) you can get away with just scuffing up the finish and then recoating.

However, not sure you can do this when the original finish is oil based and you want to recoat with water based.

[deanp]

I definitely need to sand and do a full refinish.

The high traffic areas have taken a beating. The front door area gets hit with wet snowy and sandy feet in the winter, no matter how many mats we have down and the dining room gets hit with a lot of sunlight due to it's orientation (south facing) and sliding glass door.

I've considered redoing the front hall with tile, as I believe it would be better in that area, but we both like the look of the wood.

I'll look into the Trek Plus or Bona Traffic as mentioned.

[LWJ]

Tung oil stinks. I just did it.
Water based works well. I had a problem with a dishwasher dripping as the door opened in the last house. It destroyed the finish. I have not had problems other than that.

[dipso]

If you are sanding down to wood, either finish product will work fine. Water based products will open the grain and require more sanding before the 2nd coat.

Are you going to stain? If so, stain first then use your water base.
Don't sand until after the first coat of acrylic or you will rub the stain.

Give multiple coats of water based finish, At least 5. They are fast and easy. Then after that, WAX.

Wax is what is going to protect your finish. Water base poly urethane is not very durable compared to oil.
Keep it waxed, 2 or 3 times a year and your floor will last forever.
I am not talking about crazy waxes that require buffing and all that. Just a simple pour on wax/sealer type of thing.
Remember you are walking on it.
If you were to walk on the hood of your car, you want a lot of wax, right?

[notfarnow]

Originally Posted by dipso

Water base poly urethane is not very durable compared to oil.

Have to agree, based on my DIY experience. I've sanded & finished floors 5 times now, and the only one I've had trouble with is the one I used water-based finish on.

For oil, I used to use Varethane brand poly. The fumes were STRONG and it took a long tome to dry (12+ hrs between coats).

However, after speaking with a contractor friend I tried Miniwax brand poly when I did my kitchen floors. The fumes were much less offensive, and I was able to recoat (ie stand on them *carefully*) after 6 hours. After 2+ years they've held up REALLY well, especially consider they're in the kitchen and the dogs are penned in there all day long while we're at work.