Had enough of garage door optical sensors
 

Ok, so my garage door once again decided that it was not going to close. I was out of town and had the wife call the "number" I left behind. Guy comes out and charges $125 to clean the screw drive and lube it, he says its contaminated and that's the issue.

Today rolls around and the damn thing won't shut again, I called the company and they can't find a guy to come out. So being the hack Porsche wrench I am, I dug in. Well after pulling the cover and checking the limit sensors with a multimeter (thanks 911 tech forum for using a meter on everything) everything is good.

Well it turns out that that the flimsy little brackets that house the optical safety sensors vibrate when the door goes down and they stop working. So I either need to fab a new bracket Porsche style, or find a way to "defeat" the sensors. Anyone else have this issue? On the wife aggravation scale this is a 10 right now.

I am always having to re-adjust the sensors, especially when the wind blows:confused:
I honestly would like to delete them, but then their is always the liability issue.

Its ok, I won't rat on anybody that tells me how to defeat those bastard sensors :)

They are hooked up in series on the operator panel. Just put an alligator jumper on the various lugs until the unit works when something is blocking the sensor beam. The sensors complete a circuit when the light shines into the receiving end. The other 2 wires are simply power to the lighted side. So, power to one or the other lugs will complete the circuit. It's all low voltage, so you can't really do any harm. Use your meter to find the hot wire. Always start with a high voltage setting on the meter to establish what you have.

When I was young and stupid I simply taped them - eye to eye and set the sensors in the rafters. Never had a problem fortunately.

Thanks Milt, very clear explanation:)

My wife’s dam cats see the door going down and dart in/out and make it go up!
So now I have to set there and wait for the door to fully close before driving off

I’m going to disable mine as well.

I wouldn't disable them, if you and/or wife park cars in the garage. I have them set at bumper level, so the door won't shut if the car isn't "quite enough" in the garage. I know it's saved at least one of our rear bumpers from scratches over the years.

Wow, talk about timing. My 1992 model chain drive opener just quit a couple of days before Xmas, so I got around to putting up the new one today. My old one did not have the optical thingys, but the new one does. I put them up on top of the motor housing pointing directly at each other about 12 inches apart, lol that seems to work just fine.

I did not try the jumper method, but I might if I start having trouble.

Now before anyone flames me, when the door starts down if it touches anything at all, it stops and starts to go right back up, I have the power setting adjusted so that it has just enough to go down.

Todd :)

Are they mounted on the track?

I'd either get the track anchored better so it doesn't vibrate so much, or get them mounted at an alternate position, so vibration won't affect them.

They are a nice safety feature -- and a convenience feature if tied into the opener's light when the door is opened. They should work flawlessly; I wouldn't defeat them, but get them working properly instead.

The vibrations shouldn't cause a problem. Mine vibrate but they work fine NOW. I have a 2 car garage with 2 doors. I had lots of problems with them until I realized that having both of the emitters on the left and both receivers (or whatever) on the right caused a problem. I had an old coleman camp stove and stood it on end between the two middle sensors. After that, I've never had a problem again. I suspect that putting both "senders" in the middle pointed towards the outside would fix the problem too.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1230355486.jpg

The green rectangle is where I put the coleman stove.

I have never had a problem with the sensors. I mounted them too high (bumper height) but it was where I wanted them at the time.
Now that I have a little guy I will be dropping them to the suggested height for the safety factor.
Setting the limits is pretty important too. As the openers age and go a little out of whack, almost everyone makes little adjustments to the limits and force that compromises the safety features of the door. The down force they exert is pretty amazing.
Having a problem when the wind blows? Maybe the door vibrates more at that time or perhaps the sensor wire has a staple that has rubbed through and is causing your signal to go away?
+1 to the solid mounts to the framing of the garage rather than mounting to the tracks.

Since this is happening on all three of my doors I'm going to fabricate some new brackets for these guys today and back them with rubber or something.

Most newer sensors will have an oscillating output so jumpering the inputs on the opener won't work for you.

Ok update, I tried every combination of jumping possible and NO GO, so I will just leave the sensors mounted to the top of my moter unit :)

Todd

Good to know. I think the idea of moving them to a position that allows them to work, but not interfere is a good one.

Stay tuned, I'm going to engineer the mother of all sensor brackets to squash this problem.

I've had the same prob several times recently...annoying as heck. Finally figured out our dogs are bumping them and slightly bending the el-cheapo brackets. Looking forward to seeing solution ideas.

I don't get it. I have a 16 foot door and never had any problems except cob webs.

It could be that you have better quality brackets than I do. Mine can be bent pretty much without effort. Anything from the wife bumping one with a trash can, to the wind will move mine.