Outdoor electrical ? - UF Romex in conduit?

[Paul T]

Quick question for the Pelican electricians here. Is it ok to run 12/2 UF Romex in pvc conduit for a short length, say 5-6 feet, above grade, outdoors? I think I'm ok with UF? If so is 1/2" ok or do I need 3/4 conduit? I'm hooking up a radiant heater (240v/12.5amp) outside on our deck...

While were at it, can I staple the romex to the bottom of the joists in my basement (finished, drop ceiling) or do I need to drill through each one? For the record, the PO has romex all over the ceiling, just laying on the tiles...

Thanks!

[968rz]

You should be able to just staple the wire up with out issue. 1/2" should be fine if the wire fits and as for the PVC being exposed; that you should check local code but in my mind I would use metal as it will give you more protection against damage (code here states if the wire is under ground no pipe is needed until it pops out). While PVC is sturdy it's still plastic and gets brittle in the cold.

[TerryH]

I'm not a contractor, maybe Milt will intercede. I think bare Romex needs to be strung through the floor joists not lay exposed on top/bottom.

[VINMAN]

Romex needs to be strung through the joist. Holes have to be at least 1 1/4 inch from the edge of the stud or joist.

[carambola]

use 12/2 uf. use ¾ pvc. if breaking the pipe is a concern use sched 80 pvc. sched 40 is just fine, though. do yourself a favor and put a 90° sweep on the end(underground). as far as stapling to the joints, is there no more room left on the sill plate? if not, install a runner outside of the wire to protect it from damage.
anything else?

[Paul T]

Thanks guys. For some reason I hadn't thought of running along the sill plate, I think I can do that and be in good shape. I guess someday I should go along and fix all the other ceiling wiring that is just laying right on the grid....the PO was famous for running wire into metal boxes with no connectors, jamming way too much into a box, etc. I'm fixing things as I see them...

[Zeke]

If you want to get technical, plastic is not allowable above grade. Any wires in conduit don't need the Romex style sheathing, but if it's coming out of a wall as Romex, no reason to strip it. It's just bulky and fills up a conduit and doesn't pull well. In dry locations you should be able to use EMT. If it has potential to get wet, you should use Seal-Tight connections.

[ruf-porsche]

Originally Posted by Paul T

Quick question for the Pelican electricians here. Is it ok to run 12/2 UF Romex in pvc conduit for a short length, say 5-6 feet, above grade, outdoors? I think I'm ok with UF? If so is 1/2" ok or do I need 3/4 conduit? I'm hooking up a radiant heater (240v/12.5amp) outside on our deck...

While were at it, can I staple the romex to the bottom of the joists in my basement (finished, drop ceiling) or do I need to drill through each one? For the record, the PO has romex all over the ceiling, just laying on the tiles...

Thanks!

Check what's required from your local building code. Everyone use a different code, some use the International Building Code, some use the B.O.C.A. code and some make up their own code such as CHICAGO. You don't want to install it and have to redo it if you have a house inspection.

[Laneco]

Minimum standard in the US is NEC (National electrical codes). Local authority can make it more restrictive but not less. If you use any type of metallic conduit you will be required to bond the conduit to ground. The use of PVC is ok when not exposed to physical damage and schedule 80 is used. Stapling to the bottom of the joist will be ok as long as you have a drop ceiling. Romex must be protected from physical damage (Sheetrock, plywood, acoustical ceiling). In general romex in less then six feet is overlooked.

Steve
IBEW 659

[elwood-914]

N.E.C. codes says no romex inside conduit. I have seen it done but you know everyone is an electrician.

[carambola]

what do you want to do?

[KarlCarrera]

Are you talking a single circuit of 120v or 120/240v? You mention 12/2, this will give you a single 120v, a neutral and a ground. If your looking for 120/240v you might consider 12/3 w/ grd.
Maybe I missed something in the original post?
.02

Karl
88 Targa

[ruf-porsche]

Originally Posted by KarlCarrera

Are you talking a single circuit of 120v or 120/240v? You mention 12/2, this will give you a single 120v, a neutral and a ground. If your looking for 120/240v you might consider 12/3 w/ grd.
Maybe I missed something in the original post?
.02

Karl
88 Targa

he needs a 250v 12.5 amp circuit for an electrical radiant heater.

[elwood-914]

PVC pipe can be exposed but it has to be schedule 80.

12-2 w/g would work because you don't need a neutral. You just need 2 hots and a ground.

[Paul T]

Originally Posted by ruf-porsche

Check what's required from your local building code. Everyone use a different code, some use the International Building Code, some use the B.O.C.A. code and some make up their own code such as CHICAGO. You don't want to install it and have to redo it if you have a house inspection.

Good point, we recently adopted B.O.C.A standards, I will check it out.

[Paul T]

Originally Posted by milt

If you want to get technical, plastic is not allowable above grade. Any wires in conduit don't need the Romex style sheathing, but if it's coming out of a wall as Romex, no reason to strip it. It's just bulky and fills up a conduit and doesn't pull well. In dry locations you should be able to use EMT. If it has potential to get wet, you should use Seal-Tight connections.

Thanks Milt, good point on the seal tight connections. It's covered, but not 100% dry so think I should do that..