i need some lighting help...

[vash]

i have an aquarium. simple setup. mostly plants, a few fish. but mostly plants.

the light has two tubes. one is set up for illumination, and the other tube i put a light that benefits the plants better. it is pinkish in light color.

well, one tube burned out, and my plants suffered. i ordered a new light, and all was well, and i got new sprouts. ZZZPPPTTT! one light burned out again. i made it my plant light, and the greens appear to be surviving.

i cannot exchange the light, because they need the old one first. the 10 days (lead time) in the dark will kill everything. if any of you guys know java fern and nubius plants, they grow super slow, and die fast. this is a warranty part, and for some strange reason, i cannot buy a new one, and return the old one for refund. i only get store credit.

well in true pelican fashion, i took the light apart. it has a tiny bulb like part that "starts" the flouresent tube by flashing. the defective bank has the bad flashy thing. what is it? how do i buy the correct spec'd out part? calling radio shack with "flashy thing" will make me sound like a fool.

[equality72521]

Are you talking about the ballast resistor? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballast_(electrical)

[vash]

Originally Posted by equality72521

Are you talking about the ballast resistor? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballast_(electrical)

that is a great starting point...thanks!

[id10t]

FWIW I grow awesome java fern in a 10 gal tank with a incandescent hood. Replace the incandescent bulbs with the $5/ea CF bulbs at walmart, give you 2w/gal, GREAT for plants.

[dhoward]

Sounds like you need a starter. Any hardware store...

"The most common fluorescent starter is called a "glow tube starter" (or just starter) and contains a small gas (neon, etc.) filled tube and an optional radio frequency interference (RFI) suppression capacitor in a cylindrical aluminum can with a 2 pin base. While all starters are physically interchangeable, the wattage rating of the starter should be matched to the wattage rating of the fluorescent tubes for reliable operation and long life.
The glow tube incorporates a switch which is normally open. When power is applied, a glow discharge takes place which heats a bimetal contact. A second or so later, the contacts close and provide current to the fluorescent filaments. Since the glow is extinguished, there is no longer any heating of the bimetal and the contacts open. The inductive kick generated at the instant of opening triggers the main discharge in the fluorescent tube. If the contacts open at a bad time, there isn't enough inductive kick and the process repeats. "

[dhoward]