Need Help, Bicycle Experts chime in...
 

Or anyone that knows of a good seat for my mountain bike. I would like to get back into riding, mostly to stay in shape and build my endurance back up.

The problem is the seat, damn, it just destroys the jewels.

Any that anyone can reccomend?

Thanks a ton.

Bill

Hobson Pro X2

http://www.gadgetgrid.com/wp-content...ro-hub-x-2.jpg

I bought one from www.ebikestop.com and use it every ride!

I also have the original model for my trainer/backup bike. It work just as well, but weighs more.

I bit the bullet and bought the spandex biker shorts with the chamois padded crotch (that I wear underneath sweats) and they help immensely.

Bill,

Are you sure that your bicycle is properly sized and set up for you? This can make a big difference in comfort. In my experience, people usually go for bikes that are too large. My theory is that its because when we were kids, our parents would always buy a bike for us that was too big, so we would "grow into it." Problem is, we stopped growing. A good bike shop can help you with fit. Changing the stem and/or handlebars can also help bring your body into a more comfortable position.

Jacob, I have actually had the bike since college (1994 or there abouts is when I got it), its a Connondale, that I put a Fox F100X fork on a couple of years ago, and got all cleaned up at a bike shop. I don't remember it killing me as bad back then, smile. I am 6-4, so it would need to be a really big bike to be too big for me.

I have the shorts as well, and do wear them.

Bill

I turned my MTB into an urban assault bike with this:

http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/handlebars_stems_and_tape?page=2#product=16-122

Maybe it can help you? Another thing to consider...the cannondale's oversized aluminium tubing is known to make a very stiff frame. This is good for efficiency, but not so good for comfort. You might like something with a little more give. 6'4"? How do you fit in the 965?

Good point on the frame. I am going to try a couple of things with it the seat, etc.

911's are acutally are some of the few sports cars I fit comfortably in. I wish they would have sold the 964T without the sunroof, but I can still fit in pretty comfortably.

Bill

What seat are you using now? If it's the original 15 year old seat, the foam could be shot.
I'm not a fan of the wacky cutout anatomical seats... the edges of the cutouts always feel sharp to me.
For comfort, I like the WTB Speed V saddles. For me they're wide enough to spread the load, but not too wide to hold the saddle between my knees when I'm going fast or negotiating a tricky bit of singletrack. They're also pretty affordable.

I have a newer WTB seat on there now. I am going to try moving it back.

Bill

Bicycle seat fit is as individual as each of our own backsides. The WTB seats are good. I've got two Terry seats and two Specialized Body Geometry seats. The Specialized seats can sometimes be had for a bargain as they are original equipment on (obviously) quite a few of the Specialized bikes.

May I suggest that you take your bike to a shop and verify the fit including seat angle. One or two millimeters can make a stunning difference. When you have eliminated fit as the issue, start trying seats. If the seat is a take-off, the shop will often mount it for you and let you ride it around. If the seats are on a bike, try the bike itself.

The trick is not to get a thick padded seat, those wind up feeling awful after just a few miles. The "trick" is to get a seat that fits your seat bones. Cut-outs, etc., are a personal choice, most people really like them after they try them.

If you aren't riding with good cycling shorts, do that first.

angela

Angela,

The point of the seat above is that the width is adjustable, so that the rear of the seat properly contacts the seat bones. I think the numbness problem occurs with many of the larger/heavier riders because the narrow seat splits the cheeks. The seat pushes up and you end up riding on the wrong area.

I've always been rather curious about those seats. I've never ridden on one, should probably give it a try.

Is there a loss of pedaling efficiency with them?

angela

I totally agree. I have been cycling for about 16 years now and this subject comes up often. The best thing to do is to find a cycling shop that has demo saddles, or find some one in your cycling group to loan you a saddle to try. A few of my favorite saddles are the Selle Italia Flite Ti, Selle Italia SLR, and the newer Specialized Body Geometry Saddles. I recently purchased a 2009 Specialzied Epic mountain bike, and this was my first bike purchase that I did not repalce the saddle. Check out www.Specialized.com for a local dealer.

Good luck on your search for that perfect fit :)

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=42012&eid=99

Bill, I used to race and train daily, so I've had a bit of 'seat time'.

I found that spending time adjusting, then testing, then repeat would get what I wanted. The bummer is that the different riding positions for different trails/training regimens had me sitting differently. I got good at knowing how to adjust for different rides.

Also, I found a local bike shop that sold used seats (a lot of nice ones that had been upgraded by customers) for $15, they just had a big basket of them. The hardest most uncomfortable looking ones are what I found best to keep the boys happy.

To sum it up: learn how to adjust your bike (not just the saddle) and read your body's reaction to the adjustments. The gel seats made my wallet lighter, but my sack felt no different.

I removed the seat and just use the pole. I found I get better bike control that way. Just kidding of course. But I did notice if you angle the seat down a little bit your rump sits on the back of the seat instead of your jewels on the front.

Unfortunately, you will likely need to experiment with a number of seats before you find one that works for you. Some people seem to be able to ride with anything and some (like me) always struggle with a seat. The important thing is to give it time as you can adapt to a seat.

I had a specialized with the rubber shock mounts. in the end, you just have to get your butt use to what you ride. it usually took me about a week or 2 after the my time off during the winter to break it in, my butt that is. i rode every day, for the first 5 minutes of riding it felt like i never got off the bike but then after that i was fine.
a good pair of shorts helps too. i rode about 30-40 miles every day, longer on the weekends.
any one want a trek 5500 postal bike? 54cm. my new 3.0 needs a valve job.

29er for you. Big fat tires with low psi. No need for suspension. If so inclined get a thud buster seat post.

check seat height. I think it might be too tall.

Look 171 gives good advice. Check the seat height and make an adjustment so your legs are nearly fully extended at the bottom of the crank rotation.

Also, I wonder if you're not attempting to spin in too hard a gear for your fitness. Trying to ride in a tough gear will put a huge amount of pressure on nearly every part of your body, crotch area notwithstanding.

You need to be in the 90-100 RPM range for a comfortable spin on flat surfaces. 60 or more RPM on hills.

To be honest, the seat would be the last thing I'd consider. Any seat is going to hurt if you're not cycling properly.

Bill, how much dow you weigh? Just about everyone I know who is over 220 lbs (100 kg) has the numbness issue.

Weight has nothing to do with it. It's about fit first, fine adjustment second.

BTW to OP: tire pressure is another issue to look at. Lower it to give a more comfy ride.

Weight does have something to do with it. If you have a "fat butt", and I can say that, because I do. And if you weigh a lot, the cheeks split on the little seats and you end up with pressure on the perineum. If I dropped the seat, my leg extension would be reduced.

Sounds like you were sold an improperly fitting bike, or one that needs adjusting. Or, you need to adjust your riding style.

Plenty of 200, even 300-pound people on bikes. If there were continual complaints such as yours, the industry wouldn't sell their products to "large" people.

At any rate, some manufacturers have weight warnings for their steel, aluminum and carbon units. Colnago, for instance, produced a steel frame called the Technos, which had a weight limit of 150 pounds. Only racers need apply to that.

But back on point: I've ridden with some huge guys - no one complained about their bike/physical weight circumstance after the unit was fitted to them. Rosie Greer was one of these guys. He has to be 300 easy, and pedaling along just fine, thank you.

I guess it depends on what riding you do but that fat seat is no good for any single track trail use. You need to be able to get your ass over the rear tire on descents and that seat would not let you do it. Also bulky and heavy. Seat time, seat time, seat time. My ass hurts every spring at the beginning of training although spinning this winter should help that.

Thanks everyone.

I am right at 215 pounds, and still play hockey twice a week, so I am not in that bad of shape. Just wanted to keep getting in better shape, and the 60 degree weather we are having is helping motivate me.

I think that my seat is too high, I think that is the first thing I am going to correct. Then I am going to experiment with the position of it. I am not worried about it being ultra comfortable....

Back in the day I had a Cinelli leather covered seat without any padding at all, and didn't have a problem with it.

Maybe I'll take some pics of my old school bike and post em on here.

Bill

check out Terry Saddles....

Bill, Your handle bar maybe too low causing you to lean over so you are holding yourself up too much with your arms and your sholders. At the same time, you are leaning forward causing you to put unecessary pressure on your package. Lower your saddle, with your heel on the pedals and spin the crank, you should not get any rocking motion on your hips. Adj. from there. Raise and lower the saddle no more then 1/4" (I like 1/8") at a time. I like to ride with my saddle pointed upward a lilttle( just a timy little bit, and 1/4" back for a bit more power). It holds me up without pressure on my sholders and arms. Try having a flat saddle with the bike on the ground first. Bring wrenches on your ride. Nothing like having that saddle up your rear without a wrench and you are 20 miles from home. ask me how I know. Last thing is that your bone (right under that soft spot) between your sack and your rear end, will hurt if you haven't been riding for a while. After a few rides, it will go away.

fire away with any other questions. good luck

Jeff

Back in those days you probably didn't weight 215 pounds, and back in those days you were a lot younger. It's tough getting old.