Wood work question

masraum · 03-29-2009, 10:07 AM

Wood working guys,

I'd like to make a rack to hold the lids to our pots and pans. My plan was to take something like at 8"x3/4" poplar, drill two rows of holes 1 - 1.5" aparts and put dowls in the holes. I'd like to make the top surface of the poplar concave. The only way that I can think to do that is a bit of a no-no. Very slowly sliding the board perpendicular to a table saw blade.

The problem is that going perpendicular to the blade is bad for many reasons, right?

Is there another way to do this? I've also got a Freud stackable dado blade rather than the regular single blade. Would that matter.

I assume putting side loads on the blades is bad in case they crack/break, and it's probably also bad on the bearings/motor.

Can anyone make a recommendation?

Thanks

TimT · 03-29-2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:

The problem is that going perpendicular to the blade is bad for many reasons, right?

Not a problem at all. I've copied obsolete moldings using methods like this. Usually I don't go perpendicular to the blade, I run the piece at an angle, clamping wood to the table that acts as a fence,etc. Also use feathers to hold the wood down on the blade..

masraum · 03-29-2009, 10:22 AM

Well, that's good news.

MBAtarga · 03-29-2009, 01:20 PM

That technique is used to make custom cove moulding of various radii. The height of the blade and the angle of the wood being fed determines the concave depth/radius that is cut. Make shallow passes, raising the blade with each pass until you reproduce the shape you want.

masraum · 03-29-2009, 01:29 PM

Excellent, thanks guys. I thought I had read someplace about not going at an angle to the blade.

This is why I ask these things here.

fuelie600 · 03-29-2009, 02:15 PM

It's called coving when you run the stock at an angle across the blade.

You can see more here: (scroll down to coving) http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw_spops/index.htm

rick-l · 03-29-2009, 07:25 PM

Be sure that board that you run the piece along is clamped to the table REAL good.

The feather board holding in that picture is also a good idea.

Use a big push block like shown to push down and keep your hand out of the blade when the workpiece decides to shoot back at you at 100 mph.

be prepared to sand a ragged look cove.

masraum · 07:38 PM

Fuelie600, that's a great link, thanks.

Thanks for the good info guys. Yes, I usually use a push stick or in this case will make/use a push block. I try to be ultra conscious of the possibility of cutting off digits. I'd rather avoid that sort of thing, so I'm extra careful.

Doesn't everyone wear these while woodworking??

look 171 · 03-30-2009, 12:01 AM

Why do you want to do that.. would a couple of stick and dowel do the trick.

T77911S · 03-31-2009, 04:15 AM

nice link.
i nearly lost some fingers years ago. put the first 2 of the left hand into the saw. they looked like hotdogs that had been in the microwave too long. didnt lose anything, lucky. i play guitar so for several years after it was painful to play, just had to go through it,, now its not so bad. same saw that got me got my grandad many many years ago. a friend that plays keyboard but his thimb straight into the blade. lost half the thumb. i use to get a laugh when we were playing and i would see him have to twist his had to make the half thumb reach a key.

ed martin · 03-31-2009, 09:44 AM

The biggest danger when working with a saw is kickback, where the stock binds on the blade and can pull your fingers right into harms way. It happens before you even know it. I've come close a few times in my early years. Always use a push stick, don't lean over the saw and keep your hands and body well clear of the blade.