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Bridge Connectors vs. wood blocking for joists
I tore out all the wood blocking below my main floor (daylight basement ceiling) to install radiant heat pex tubing.
When it comes time to put something back in there (most of the wood blocking was torn up getting it out), should I cut new wood blocking or use steel Bridge Connectors? Is one better for shear or other earthquake issues than the other? The steel Bridge Connectors are < $1 each so cost is not a big deal here. They look pretty easy to install. But how strong are they? |
I've used both....The steel goes faster and works just as well.
I was just gonna mention on thing I heard recently about Pex; I heard this from several sources, including one that is an insurance adjuster. Pex is the breakfast of choice for mice and rats.....They 'naw' thru it, you get leaks and water damage........I recently built a new house, had a choice and glad I chose copper.....Best to make sure critters don't get to your new plumbing..... |
thanks!
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Steel's fine. Put them in a straight line. What's the span?
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they're just regular ol' 16" centers
- 14.25 or 14.5 I guess would be the span - haven't measured yet... |
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Span is the length between the ends of the joists... |
So you only need one row of connectors.
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It's NOT a 14.24 FOOT span. He's talking about 14.24 INCHES between joists. Rwebb, what's the span of the joist? |
make sure you put a row of bridging in the center of the span.
The area of max. bending moment has the highest likelyhood of twisting. You may also want to put a row under any walls above that are perpendicular to the joists. |
yes, " = inches; ' = feet (one reason I often use ft. for feet....)
Thx for the wall and center idea - will be putting them there and closer together too. The span of the 2x10 joists is about 22 ft. where they rest on an interior wall, and another joist picks up at that wall and extends 20 ft. to the rim joist on the other side. |
glue the wood with subfloor glue at the floor else she will squeak.
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what is subfloor glue?
is it just constr. adhesive? also, you mean glue the edges of subfloor to the top of the joists, right? |
Squeaks are caused by nail that have missed the center of the joist and split the wood. That would be 99% of the time. 22' means you'd have one row at 11' . I'd go with 2 rows unless one under a wall makes the spacing between the next row at 8' or less, both sides.
If you solid block it, how do the pipes get treated? will you be notching or ripping them down for clearance. If ripping, they won't even touch the subfloor. No glue needed. Yes, he meant construction adhesive. They make a bunch of different kinds now. Wet location, high strength, etc. Just don't buy the cheapest stuff and you'll be fine. I think the cheapest stuff would be for paneling. Who installs paneling anymore? You could use it for installing 1/4" drywall over existing. Just sayin' so you know why there's a cheaper grade. |
OK, I am a little confused...
The subfloor (and wood strip floor, stapled #2 Hickory) is ALREADY in place. I removed the old basement ceiling to gain access to the bays in between the joists. Now, given that, does it make any sense to squeeze a little glue into the edge formed by the bottom of the subfloor and the top of the joists?? |
I'm with Milt on the 2 rows of connectors.
Glue might quiet a squeeky floor some, but it might be a pain if the floor is ever pulled up. |
There is nothing wrong with squeaky floors.
They are perfect for busting your little kids sneaking into your bedroom in the middle of the night. Then of course you always have the benefit of being able to move out of the way at the last second when your local axe murderer comes in to kill you in the wee hours of the morning. |
How 'bouncy' is the floor? 22' span on a 2x10 , 16" O.C. is much longer than codes allow. I have never gone over 16' with a 2x10.
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I missed the 2x10 joist. Go with at least 3 rows of connectors.
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thx - will do, but...
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