You haven't moved in with your folks yet?

it pays for *****. sorry to burst your bubble.

I wasn't complaining.... It was kinda fun learning a new skill....

well that will keep me out of trouble for a bit then. I have a few more questions. go figure.

Yes! Temp connection via a neighbor's wifi... I just can't sit on the couch.

you net thief.................

I asked permission. :)

oh friends with bennies!!!!!!

i am betting the shaking the other night was withdrawls form the net

Could've been!

Better ask questions fast.. :D

here or FB or email

Email is not really an option right now. :)

ok so I have ti down to little less than $500 (no shipping) for all parts except the electronics.
1. what would I need to send you for the neck just he glued up piece?
2. should I cut the t-bar slot before sending it?
3. is the bridge really grounded and how?
4. a router bit that it template following does the template have to be bigger or smaller that actual piece.
5. how much beer should I be ready to send?
I'm sure I'll have more later if I kick this off. Connor is excited to make the attempt.

1) I take it you decided to make the neck?
2) I can cut the groove, since we used a small router.
3) Yes. Now that I have Inet, I can look st some SG bodies. I am going to guess it is similar to the LP, where a small hole is drilled to connect the closest bridge (tailpiece really - strings act as the conduit to bridge and tuners.)
4) Depends. Some of the templates we built used bearing guides - the bearing is at the bottom of the bit and is flush cutting. Some other templates required a normal bit and used some required a router bushing. Rockler Router Guide Bushing Kit - Rockler Woodworking Tools Templates needed to be made bigger for the bushing. Size is dependent on bushing used. 1/8" 1/16"...
5) Not much.

the grounding thing is what I don't get. if you look at the plans there is no way to connect the bridge hole to the wire duct.

yeah I decided to bite off more than I chew. worse case I have some really cool fire wood.

by not much there has to be something I can trade or do for all this great information and the work.

You will drill pretty big holes for the bushings for the tailpiece (forget the bridge) to be set in with a mallet... Once the these holes are drilled, the one closest to the control cavity can be hit with a small drill bit, creating a tunnel between the two. I'll send enough ground wire for the whole project, but a piece is run from the control cavity to the closest tailpiece hole... Once the wire is run and just barely sticking out of the bushing hole, set the bushing. The wire will pinch between the wood and bushing. The ground then gets connect to one of the pots. The guitar strings ground the bridge and tuners.

great thanks. I saw that the neck billet can be bought as a large chunk or you can buy sep pieces that out would then glue together. toughts on that? I think I am leaning towards the neck set up in the 61 thread as the body is flat routed and the neck contains the angle. thoughts on that?

I will have to read up on that thread. :)

My thoughts on necks...

If you are making a exact knockoff, you would want to make a one piece neck. It's how it's done. You may have to accept that the neck may twist and become unusable and have to make another.

If you don't care for duplication, go with the multiple strips of wood and have a neck that should never twist - there are always exceptions to this. :D If you go this route, I don't recommend using the scarf joint to add a portion of the heatstock. I'd take the glued stock and make a one piece headstock and neck.... I can add the maple splines that I used to strengthen that area. The maple is hidden be the fretboard and headstock veneer.

One thing driving me to make the LP #2 copy is the neck. I'd go for a true one piece for originality and use the splines to strengthen weak headstock area.

Oh, I may be able to help with the neck material if you go the sliced route..

I think I want to go with stronger is better aka no twist. If I make a one piece head stock is there enough wood in one blank after cutting in thirds or will I need more than one blank?