Richard this is more of an anticipitory toolbox. It's not needed now. But we are close to needing it.

Yes yes, pictures of her and of her whatnots....:eek::D


Really like my I-phone, that thing is lightning fast. Makes Windows Mobile look like a slow snail.

I want an iPhone, but not on AT&T's network. I hope they eventually offer it on Verizon's network.

Oh yes, pic's of her whatnots, Markus.

Over here, there is not fixed network obligation thingy. Coupled sale is illegal here.
But, the phone's expensive, 580€, 100 € more for the 32 Gb version. (I have the 16 Gb, which is more than enough)

I wish it was illegal here.

Oh Boy Lanna was a great Gal today. Got the Ra1's nice and hot on the way home. We had to take the way back roads. Wife said she could hear me long before I turned into the "hood'. I told her I was doing triples as I was getting close. Country living does have some advantages.

the chips are on the way....

right now, i am only getting about 9.5 lbs of boost. i have a proper boost gauge and can monitor the boost. it is also coming with a LR boost enhancer. if it is overboosting with the banjo bolt, i can use the boost enhancer instead and limit it to 12 lbs or so. i only use premium fuel in my cars and motorcycles, which is 91 octane around here. if i have a problem with it overboosting, i'll return it to stock.

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, don't return to stock, just force more fuel in it. :)

yeah, there is that option, as well. i could get an adjustable FPR and some dyno time to make sure that things don't explode.

Lindsey Boost Enhancer is basically a spring loaded valve. The pressure on the boost side has to always be at a higher than the pressure on wastegate side to stay open. That means if you have it set to 10psi, it only allows what you are making over 10psi to go to the cyclic valve to control the wastegate.

I did a LOT of the original testing for the LBE. It was their first product. The reason LR came up with it was they found the factory boost control started opening the wastegate at as little as 4psi of boost. The factory boost control is an Electronic Boost Controller. With an EBC there is a frequency that a solenoid opens and closes to allow boost pressure to operate the wastegate to control boost (The cyclic valve does this). There is also a gate pressure that the cyclic valve starts cycling to keep from overboosting. If the gate pressure is too high the pressure to the wastegate doesn't open it quick enough to keep from spiking to high. On the stock setup that pressure is 4 psi. The idea of the LBE is to keep the boost pressure the Cyclic valve uses to control the wastegate from reaching the cyclic valve until the set pressure of the LBE, changing the gate effective pressure, but because it is what is called a spring loaded back pressure valve it is also limiting the pressure available for the cyclic valve to control the wastegate.

When I ran the Hallett track with the LBE at their factory setting of 10psi the car went into overboost protection when accelerating hard in 3rd. Never did it on the street though.

If you are still using factory boost control it does have overboost protection (the car goes to idle and will not accept throttle for 30 seconds), a manual boost controller kills that protection. I ended up with my LBE set to only about 4 psi. It added more power without going into overboost protection nailing it on the track in 3rd. I just kept turning it down until I didn't go into overboost protection.

Because of the overboosting I designed and built my own boost enhancer that once open allowed full pressure to the cyclic valve. It helped the turbo spool quicker but did not give the big performance gain the LBE did. Does that tell you anything about the LBE? I offered to let LR sell my design, but it was way more expensive to make, and didn't make the car all that much faster, they declined.

On the 944 Turbo EVERYTHING is designed to work within the operating parameters that Porsche set. What that means is...Everything on the car is sized for those parameters. You must change almost everything to run more boost than stock. MAF, Chips, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Wastegate, Turbo, Valve Springs, head gasket, get the idea? On my second 951 I did all that and still had tuning problems!

That's why I would only recommend Weltmeister Chips with waste gate shim. I think the Welt chip and shim raises the max boost maybe 2psi which gives more power but stays within the operating parameters of all the stock management. Oh yeah, if your 88 has a K26-6 get the K26-8 turbo from the 88s and 89. A little more umph on the top end. The LR Stage 3 intercooler helps too without effecting reliability. I was the test car for those also. The intercooler took a full second off my quarter mile over the stock intercooler with the Welt Chips/shim. It's not the one with the ugly nose piece, just the one with both ends flow increased.

It has been almost 2 years since I was involved in the 951 stuff. Maybe reliability has changed, but I still think you would need to completely replace all the components I listed. It looked like Vittesse had some cool stuff coming using a MAP sensor to help control spark advance. Sounded Expensive because it added to his already expensive ECU replacement board. His MAF and chips didn't advance timing at all and were doggy accelerating but had the flattest Air Fuel I've seen.

I personally just don't have either the patience or financial fortitude to play on that ragged edge any more. I bought my last 951 for $11K, and spent close to $20K chasing the tune including a complete motor rebuild. I sold it 4500 miles after the rebuild for $10K with a blown head gasket. When the new owner got into it found it needed more than a head gasket and parted it out.

What you will find with an adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator and higher fuel pressure, the idle will suck when you have enough pressure for the top end. That's why they sell bigger MAFs and MAF tuners.

shyt.

I been there, done that the HARD way.

All those guys with hopped up 951s and are getting more than 5 or 6K miles out of a rebuild/head gasket either don't crank up the boost and push the go pedal all the way to the floor very often, or are race cars that rebuild the motor every season with less miles on their track car than 5000 anyway.

ok. i am listening. is there any way to make this setup work properly?

Richard, just curious- what were you running in the quarter mile?

I love mine....

About to jailbreak it so I have internet tethering again.... Makes it totally awesome....

Because I was testing intercoolers I was trying to be consistent instead of getting the fastest. I just reved to 5000 rpm and dumped the clutch and let it wheel hop. I did pretty well on the consitent. I did 6 runs. Two with each intercooler, stock, stage 1 and stage 2. The two runs with each intercooler were within .003 of each other. All the regulars at the drag strip told me I should be doing dial in where the most consistent runs win. My times were 15.5, 15.00, and 14.5 for each intercooler. I think the top speeds were from 105 to 115. It has been several years. I do remember I didn't break 14 because I would of had to wear a helmet.

Lindsay Racing wanted to test the intercoolers on the track because there wasn't much difference on the dyno. The dyno runs were also done with my car. David Lindsay bought the car from me and it is the white car they have now.

yep yep, Thursday again, my friends, how time flies...

:):):)

No it's not.

Coupled sale was illegal until recently, but since an EU ruling , it's no longer illegal
Hence why telenet sells phones for 1 Euro, coupled with a subscription.

Oh, and iphones are ghey.