Wood Floor Repair

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

I have 2 dents put into my engineered wood floor by a contractor.

Both are near a sliding glass door. One is about 1/4" deep and you can feel the ends of the wood fibers. The damn floor is only 1 year old too.

It is a Kahrs snap-together type of engineered wood (wood strips sti on top of, & are glued to a plywood base), IIRC, it is Birch.

Any thoughts on what would be involved in a repair?

- Would a colored putty hide them ok?

- Can just a few of the "planks" or panels be replaced?

I'm pretty certain I'll never get the contractor to pay for the damage - it was concealed (by an interior door mat) until he finished and took off.

craigster59 · craigster59's Garage

Have you tried a damp towel and an iron to try and "steam" them out?

island911 · 11-02-2009, 02:56 PM

fill the dents w/ water. --should help some, to raise the dent.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

thx - but given that ends of the wood fibers are exposed on the deeper one, I don't think water/steam would help - might hurt too (?)

island911 · 11-02-2009, 03:12 PM

well, if its tongue& groove, you can cut out the bad board and replace it with a modified new 'board'. --cut off the bottom ledge of the new 'board' such that it can be dropped in and glued down.

gr8fl4porsche · gr8fl4porsche's Garage

Replace interior door mat - problem fixed.

dad911 · 11-02-2009, 06:22 PM

I would try to patch it with wood putty first, the kind that you mix and it hardens, since it is on the floor. Then stain to match.

If that does not work, drill a hole with a brad-point drill bit, make a 'repair patch' with a plug-cutter, and glue the patch in the hole.

I would try it first with some scrap flooring, but this is done all the time to cover the screw holes in hardwood railings.

Scuba Steve · 11-02-2009, 06:23 PM

Kahrs Woodloc when glued down is about the nastiest thing I can think of to try and replace a board with. It locks on all four sides and will require careful cuts to eliminate the locking tabs on the new board.

Then there is the precice removal of the existing board and its "feet" which extend under the board in front of it by an inch or so in order for the new board to sit flush with its neighbors. Removing the adhesive is not that bad compared with all of the other steps. It can be scraped off.

So before you make a decision, carefuly weigh all of this against how it looks now or your other options that do not require replacing a board. Take into account the probability of damaging a neighboring board or this one not sitting or fitting like the others.

I would look seriously at filling or repairing if at all possible. Kahrs looks great and can be quick to install in my experience, but can be a nightmare to replace a board with this stuff.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

thx - any ideas on brands of putty to use?

I don't suppose Kahrs has a line of specially tinted putties for each floor type??

I don't think they are glued, but IIRC they do have that special locking edge that Kahrs is famous for...

Eric Coffey · 11-03-2009, 11:57 AM

Before I replaced the whole plank, I would try a hole saw just bigger than the dent diameter, and tap/glue a "plug" in (matching species/color/grain). Use the putty to smooth any gaps, not fill the entire hole. Might be worth a try. If it didn't turn out right, you would be replacing the plank anyhow. I would just be a bit apprehensive of filling a large divot with wood "bondo" (putty).

Scuba Steve · 11-03-2009, 12:43 PM

I have their Walnut Montreal and the walnut filler I found at Lowes did a good job on the one little line where the saw went just a bit too far where I was cutting a hole for a floor outlet. I will probably go over it later with some low gloss varnish to completely match it up. How big is the damaged spot?

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

the hole saw idea sounds good to me

the dent slopes downward at an angle (a ramp) and is nearly an inch long

I finally tracked down somebody in town who does these repairs. He nixed putty and the hole saw ideas; said he could fill it with a hot wax but it would not look good.

Labor to cut out the board and replace is $200 (his rough guess)
I'll have to buy a full box of the planks - they are 8 ft. long & that should cost ~~ $150 to $200.

I hope this works well. I am going to contact the perp./contractor in writing and see if he'll pay for the labor. I called him already and he said he 'didn't think' he did it; was always careful; made no profit on the job he did here; etc. ...

Thanks for all your help & suggestions.