Guys, how do I go abput replacing an outlet box?
 

It's the gray type that's nailed into a stud. One of the holes the outlet screws into is stripped. How do I go about replacing the box without ripping a big hole in the wall to get to the nail? TIA.

I have replaced boxes. Not really a big deal. I seem to damage some of the drywall in the process and then need to make additional repairs.

I would suggest you get a bigger screw? You could always grind the diameter of the head down to match the other? A little paint and only you would know.

Good luck,
Larry

Just fill the hole with some epoxy....or body filler. Put the screw in before it dries.

Damn, bigger screw! That's worth a try. Thanks!

If it's a metal box and you have a tap and die, you could go that way; otherwise I think you're gonna be doin some drywall. :mad:

JB weld, drill, Tap, original screw.

Hmm, epoxy. I'll try that if the bigger screw doesn't work. Thanks.

I can ask anything on this board and you guys will have an answer. Love this place. Thanks.

Carefully cut with a Sawzall between the box and stud to slice through the nails (use a bi-metal blade). You will want to brace the Sawzall with your hand so you don't mark up the wall. It should'nt take much to cut the nails, just be carefull of the wiring of course. To replace, throw in a remodel box OR just use any old box and screw it to the stud with drywall screws from the inside of the box.

But of course a bigger screw may be easier if you don't care about looks =)

use an 8/32 instead of the 6/32 that is with the outlet. to tell you the truth a drywall screw would work just fine

+1

Amazing place, ain't it.

Yeah, replacing boxes sucks. I had to replace a few when I moved it. I had to add some GFCI outlets around the house, but couldn't find CO/ALR outlets (for Al wiring), so I had to butt-connect copper wiring to the Al wiring and then connect the Cu to the GFCIs. By the time I was done, there was no room for the outlets in the boxes. Doing drywall sucks.

use a drywall screw or whatever size 8 screw you have. it will work great unless you really want it to look original. if you can remove the old one by rocking it back and forth, you can install one of those that doesn't require you to nail it into the stud. it has two "tabs" that flip up and clamps the box flange and the tab to the drywall itself. works great.

What the other guys said about using a larger screw. I've had this happen to me in the past and I just use a slightly larger sheet metal screw.

(Caveat:I may have these reversed).
-"Old work" boxes are plastic and have tabs which grip the backside of the drywall.
-"New work" boxes are for new construction without drywall and are nailed/screwed into studs. Metal or plastic.

If it's a non-electrical connection, just stuff it full of toothpicks and screw it back in. Pine is soft and forgiving, or shave some hardwood.

a good trick for a stripped screw for a door hinge is fill the hole with glue, jam in a golf T and let set and break off the T and redrill.

8-32 flathead screw. Original is a 6-32 flat head.
Done it hundreds of times.