Home maintinance list
 

Thought I'd post the obvious.

1). Find heat loss.
-use an infrared thermometer on the walls and windows
-Obvious signs are the roof snow pack is inconsistent, and/or dripping icicles on a cold day.
-If you have an unheated attic with rolls of fiberglass mat on the floor, you can blow in cellulose . I'm becomming a fan of spray foam insulation.
-Basements supposedly are responsible for 30% of heat loss. You can dig around them and install foam block insulation to the outside.
-Insulation must be done with a proper moisture barrier or a big problem will be created.
-The talk is that there are big federal rebates for buying better windows and insulation. There are also huge grants for remidiation-jobs-creation(good news for the youth).

2). Find roof leaking.
-Obvious signs are nailpops, paint peeling off drywall, and/or stains on the rafters in the attic crawlspace.
-This can also be caused by insufficient ventilation from blocked soffit vents, ridge/gable vents being too small, etc. If moisture is not carried away from the structure, it will cause damage and affect the insulation and structure.
-This can also be caused by wicking water from clogged downspouts.

3). Correct foundation drainage.
-Downspouts should carry the water as far away from the foundation as possible.
-Create a surface grade away from the house. Give the water someplace to collect and drain elsewhere.

4). Find structural defects.
-Obvious signs are boucing/splitting/sagging floors and drywall cracking along edges.
-Temporary repairs on single-storys can be made with I-beams and screw posts in the basement, but this must be planned carefully and a little at a time. Else, you can potentially create major damage when loading shifts from one area to another. These usually go at the ends of joists where the loads meet. Lumber companies sometimes have structural engineers on call who will review it for cheap.

5). Flush the water heater twice a year.
-Rust and sediment builds up and makes it inefficient. Turn off the heater and let it run into the sink for 10 minutes.
-Insulate hot water pipes in the basement with foam and metal tape
-Wrapping it with a blanket is supposed to help retain the heat as well.

6). Change the furnace filter.
-Interior pollution is usually far worse than exterior.
-Use a Hepa filter vaccum and blow it out with a compressor each time.

5). Clean frige coils.
-This is often overlooked, I was amazed to find my 2y.o. fridge so dirty.

6). Operate water shutoff valves.
-These always seem to be frozen.
-Be gentle. If it won't turn, spray it with WD-40 and try again the next day.

7). Check the fusebox.
-Check that all heavy appliances(dishwasher/microwave/etc.) are unique on seperate circuits and have properly-rated wiring!
-Check that the wiring and fuses match up(i.e.:14 guage wire with a 15amp breaker vs 12guage wire with a 20amp).
-Label/make a blueprint of circuit runs. There shouldn't be too many outlets on a string(5-10 max by code?, dunno?). Space heaters should optimally be used on unique runs with 12guage wiring.

That's what I can think of for now. Unfortunately some pelicans won't be able to see this because I'm on their ignore listSmileWavy

John -That's a good list and timely reminder! Thanks! ( and now everyone can see it.)

Best,
Tom SmileWavy

Any tips on canned lights that are installed in the attic? If I can see light from them in the attic, that means they aren't sealed. Is there a good/easy way to seal them?

Thanks,
Neil

Sorry, I'm new to the home-ownership world, and don't have a good answer for that(although I play a doctor on t.v.) Try Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum or another DIY site.
Mabye Milt or Rob would have a quick answer.

I forgot to add, there are special(IMPORTANT) proceedures for insulating around fireplace flues and pocket lighting. Use of high-wattage halogens in those builds up a lot of heat and can burn up the wiring.

Definitely read up before you do anything. I think I've read somewhere that for many of that kind of light, there's supposed to be a gap between the fixture and the insulation. I assume it's for safety purposes.

How about, "have the house designed right in the first place".

Hire a licensed architect, not a "slam-'em-out" homebuilder. A little money up front will save you a lot of money (and headaches) later.

Sorry for the shameless plug, but I know of very few architect-designed homes that have the above problems (the ones that result from poor design anyway). The maintenance stuff is always good practice.