I was trying to say the gas 'system' is rifle length and not mid-length or carbine.

Not sure if I'm saying that right...

Really? Is really a rifle length gas system on an 18"? Does the gas tube go all the way to the front sight or is there a gas block under the handguard short of the FSB? Ala dissapator.

Yes, it's a full length gas system on the SPR.

Just look at the pix gogar and i posted.

Yes, I haven't pulled the handguard, but as far as I can tell it is.

From CMMG: "1/7 twist Barrels are hard chrome lined. Rifle length gas system."

You can buy the actual fluted SPR barrel on line. It's about $300 bucks. I came very close to shelling out the cash for one during my build, but i held off.

Soukus, do you have your private messages turned off?

How hard should it be to remove the take down pin?

Should I be able to push it out with my fingers, or do I need to hit it with a hammer?

NO DONT USE A HAMMER! LOL

If it's hard to push through use the tip of a 5.56mm cartridge or a cleaning rod. Usually when it's hard it's got an accu-wedge in it. This helps to remove the slop/play between the upper and lower recievers, but does make removing the pins a good deal more difficult.

You can relieve the pressure by squeezing the receivers together between your thighs (muzzle down, while you are seated) and then pushing the pin through.

Snipe - PM is turned off because I can't easily use it on my iPhone. I got tired of trying and was probably annoying too many people who got really delayed responses. Shoot me an e-mail.


Take down pin: put some oil on the groove of the detent pin and on the body of the pin. It will get easier overtime unless you're pinching the two receivers together causing the drag. If you're not using an accuwedge that is. With an accuwedge properly cut down you just have to apply a little pressure on top of the upper receiver and the pressure will relieve the drag holding the pin agains the holes o the receiver.

I left my accuwedge full size and added an o-ring on the front pin boss. I am allergic to play in my receivers.

Of course as a result that pin hole is virgin tight.

I keep on telling you folks that there is no replacement for displacement, and this is another one of those times. The 7.62x39 shell that the AK-47/MAK-90 shoots is far superior!

Mattel makes a very nice toy, doesn't it? And the Mini? Isn't that just a way for BMW to sell front-drive cars while being able to say that they've never sold one? BAH. Both are toys. Buy a REAL gun- an AK-47 or a MAK-90. I have the later, and it is my favorite gun. It is simple, reliable, and it's "knock-down" power is far greater than the silly AR-15/M-16 or the Mini-10.

In Vietnam, it wasn't unusual at all for soldiers to take the AK-47's from dead VC and use them instead of the GI M-16.

Kalashnikov designed this weapon after examining a German weapon from WWII that was considered the first assault rifle. The primary focus of the design was that it would be able to be easily field-stripped and lubricated by an individual who was so basic that he didn't even know how to use a toilet. As such, the gun is rugged and can easily handle contamination with water and silt and still keep on shooting fine.

Also, I bought my MAK-90 in 1993 for $250. They are still cheap, but AR-15's and Mini-10/14 are far more expensive!

The latest 5.56mm rounds are significantly more destructive than AK ammo N!

And they shoot straight. :D

I did used to have some Eastern block pig iron though (it was a gift)...

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...AndHotrods.jpg

But i've since upgraded my battery of arms:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...oons/ARHK2.jpg