you need an energy audit!

BTW - choose light colored shingles next time you re-roof

to obviate the entire problem, cover your roof with PV cells and gar some free kilowatts -- during the winter you can burn dollar bills in your fireplace too

eventually, there will be PV cells cheap enuff to do this with...

Had my shingles replaced a few years ago after major hurricane season, yep replaced them with light colored architectural. I do agree an energy audit is in order. Thanks

I definitely think that I may need more ventilation. I've got a ridge vent, but my roof is sloped front to back and side to side, so I think my ridge vent is too short. I've got plenty of soffit vent for intake of cooler air, but not enough for escaping hot air. (is my non expert opinion).

We have a newish roof (5-7 years, I think) and yes, we had it done in light colored tiles. I'd paint the damn thing with gloss white epoxy if I could.

A builder told me most ridge vents aren't tall enough and/or built right. End to end would let the heat out faster.

You can also buy small solar panels which power a fan. I don't know if these are made for only the eave(are these called gable?) venting systems though.

I have a energy audit scheduled for this Saturday from one of the vendors that were at the home show. I will post the results.

Yeah, my problem is that instead of having a gable roof with ridgevents.
http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto...-main_Full.jpg

I've got a hip roof with ridge vents.
http://www.precraftedhomes.com/pix/64/comraf-hip.jpg
So I don't have 36' of ridge vent, I've got 6' of ridge vent.

We had a new roof put on a few years back. They came out with an estimate. Our ins co was willing to pay for some of the roof because of hail. We told them, "We can only afford to cover $___, above what the insurance company is covering." They said "OK, we'll do it." Because of the county that we live in (coastal), there are stringent specs that must be followed and inspections that must be performed. They didn't get any of that done. Fortunately when we found out and got the engineer out for an inspection, he passed us. When the company came out, they had the old turbine vents, we asked for ridge, but I didn't know enough to also ask for hip vents or to realize that ridge would be inadequate.

Now I'm wondering about adding either turbine vents or hip vents after the fact. I also think we need to get the more insulation put in.

At least now I'll know this crap for next time. sigh...

I would agree you do not have enough ventilation. I have gable and the ridge vent runs almost the entire length of the ridge. I'm surprised your 6 foot of ridge passes code ?

It doesn't. You need to add ridge vent to the hips (looks ugly), a power vent (block off your current ridge vent or it will suck the air fom there instead of the soffit), turtle backs, turbines, etc.

UPDATE- energy audit # 1 done
 

Well yesterday energy audit dude # 1 shows up and does a decent job of inspecting the house and using a IR handheld to make his case. I was surprised when he said my 15 year old attic insulation still meets current code, he even said he was surprised. He said I have plenty of soffit/ridge vent. Then went to windows no surprise my 15 year old single pane should be replaced with double pane. My AC system was replaced in 2006 and is 14 Seer and no suggestion was made to replace even though up to 30 Seer is now available. Finally we discussed solar water heating. Bottom line was $5500.00 for system installed. So I did learn a few things but still don't know what my path will be. I'm still leaning towards having the foam insulation under the roof deck. I have a second energy audit scheduled for Monday so we'll see what comes from that. While the solar water heater sounded good and with various incentives only costs about half of the 5500.00 for some reason I'm still not convinced it's the way to go.

You should try to have an attic ventilation and put more windows. It depends on your budget for the construction. Sometimes if your lot is wide enough then you might have to plant some kind of tress to lessen the heat the surrounds your house.

UPDATE- Well right or wrong I decided to have all the windows in my house replaced with vinyl windows. Going double hung white with low-E and argon gas filled. For 11 windows including 5 " eye brows " and one of them being tempered to meet code over the tub the job will be $5800.00. I can write off about $1400.00 on my taxes and I'll get some money back from the electric company. I expect my electric bill to go down but not sure how much. Also hope it adds resale value for the future. Also took advantage of their no interest no payments for one year :D so I'm happy. When the bill comes due I'll write the check and incur zero interest. I think next year I'll add more conventional insulation to the attic and possibly a solar fan or two for additional heat extraction.

In a year you will be able to compare how much you saved by replacing the windows (comparing same electrical useage to same month data) and I've read new windows add about 80% of their cost to the value of your home (about $4600 in your case).

is it a flat roof?
we got something here where they put insulation plates (you can walk on em)on top of the asphalt layer, and then put pebbles on top of the insulation... supposed to be really efficient...
Rockwhool Rhynox is the brand name.

Insulation on the outside is more effective then insulation on the inside

No it is a conventional roof. Currently has a combination of conventional fiberglass insulation over half the house that has vaulted ceilings and blown fiberglass over the other half that has conventional flat ceilings. I'm thinking maybe doubling up the insulation and adding one or two solar fans might not be too bad of a hit on the wallet.

how thick is it now, and does it have a moisture barrier?

Not sure on the moisture barrier but I believe it is 6 inches thick for both types of insulation.

6 inches is not really unreasonable, the moisture barrier is important though, as it serves to keep the insulation dry, and effective... you need to make sure of the moisture barrier.. else them 6 inches won't work they way they should.

Very important in colder enviroments, not sure how important it is in warm environment.
But i can imagine it still matters at night, when warm , moist air passes the insulation, and then with the colder evening temps, the moisture condenses once it migrates through the insulation... Maybe somebody else can comment on this?