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btw:
the rep from Drillco taught me: what "we" call drill bits are actually drills and what "we" call drills are actually drill motors I haven't found anyone else who talks this way.... but 1/4" isn't 0.250 to me either... ;) |
We have some Makita Cobalt bits that are excellent... I think they came off ebay... Find a good brand and pick them up cheap....
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Quote:
The hardest thing I have to teach a new hire is that there are no fractions in a machine shop. Yes, I am a dork. :D |
Checked your profile, but didn't see where you are. Travers Tool is a company I like for drill bits, etc. They have a place in Duncan, SC which means my order is on my porch next day with UPS ground shipping. They have selection from cheap to quality bits. They have a website.
Seems like you've got good recommendations as far as USA bits and the Cobalt bits hold up better in deeper holes. If you are using a drill motor, mechanics lenght, which is shorter than the standard jobbers length would be good. A split point is better in that it starts easier. |
Go to your local hardware store and buy the American made bits. If you are using a drill press, it will be a piece of cake. The last time I drill a bunch of 1/4" steel for a stair case was done with my local hardware store American make bits. I just keep spraying it with WD40. I had to drill something like 50-60 holes. I was only just able to kill 2 drill bits. Went to the grinder to sharpen it right up. Go slow and keep the bit cool. Once you see lots of smoke, back off and spray or put a little ATF on and around the little hole. Are you drilling tool steel? Try to get a bit that's been grind for steel. If you are using a drill press, it shouldn't matter all that much but... How many holes?
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one more thing:
the 135 degree split points start quicker and straighter than the 118 degree - you usually don't need a pilot hole - a center punch still helps for precision unless you're using a press. |
Quote:
If you want to drill, get a good bit. |
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