Replacing hot water heater
 

So I wake up to my hot water heater leaking very badly from the inside, so it needs to be replaced. I've never done it but seems doable, will be about 60% the cost of having someone come and do it for me (plus the family gets to take warm showers this weekend).

The approach:

1. Two water pipes, two nuts, no problem

2. Gas supply, just unscrew and screw back on

3. Pressure relief valve. I assume I cut the copper pipe (see pic), get a new pressure relief valve, new coper pipe and solder in place as needed

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265487692.jpg

I've never solder before but think I can manage especially since this is the pressure relief.

Am I on track?

Thanks.

Wayne C.

Shop around. A lot of plumbers are hungry right now.

I had one that looked as easy. By the time I was done, I wished I had farmed it out.

It's extremely easy, sweating pipes only requires that the connections be clean and that you have some flux. Heat the joint and it will suck the solder right in. If it's a gas heater mix some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray your new connections to check for leaks.

It is simple. You can go from CPVC to copper with a device called a "shark bite"; it allows you to make plumbing connections without soldering or using CPVC cement. Use it for your overflow. Don't forget pipe dope on the copper threads going into the tank.
Turn off the water, power, and gas. Drain the tank, and disconnect the fittings. Replace the tank, hook up the water and refill the tank, reconnect the power and gas relight your pilot. Shouldn't take more than two hours.

Thanks guys, I think I'm gonna give it a try. Good tip about the shark bite, did not know that.

fingpilot, thanks, I did make a few calls, a couple of guys seemed to be irritated I called and asked for the water heater to be replaced today...guess I'll keep that $350 in my pocket.

SmileWavy

Wayne

Just ensure that the gas is properly vented.

Be sure you bend over when you see the price of a new gas water heater in California. Seems our friendly AQMD got into the water heater scam business and now thanks to them, gas water heaters here cost about twice what they used to just a few years ago.
They say low NOX on them now and the AQMD gets a cut from EVERY STINKING HEATER SOLD. They call it a licensing fee.
But it's still just another liberal tax thanks to our nonsensical tree-hugger friends.

very somple job now with the new fittings. adding a shark valve inline to fix a gate vqalve in mine this evening. just need a tubing cutter and a wrench.

It's a Water Heater.

Not a Hot Water Heater.

If the water was hot you wouldn't need to heat it.

(pet peeve)

How about when people say they have to unthaw something..... Drives me nuts...

Please check the legalities of handling the gas pipes. I'm not allowed to - although I do. Put soapy water on the connection and look for bubbles. And try to get a new water cylinder of the same size and with the pipe connections in the same place, it makes it a lot easier.

If you dint already have one, you might want to add an expansion tank to prevent water hammer. Just "T" in vertically on the supply line I think it is. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I think the copper pipes come in different thincknesses. One is bendable, one not so much. Not sure which is necessary for code/saftey.
It might be an issue if the gas line is signifigantly in a different place/height.

Also, code is to have a backflow valve if one is not already installed.

If in doubt, have a certified plumber make the final connections only.
Get a $60 CO/Gas alarm(or two) and protect your life.

Another thought. Don't use flex pipe to make your connections. Hard pipe only or it will cut down the flow.

Backflow preventer for what?I've never seen one or installed one on a hw heater.

AFAIK I think this prevents yard waste from getting sucked into the cold water supply.
I'm not a plumber, just mentioning it for reference. I should have said "I think code is...."

Are those 3/4 flare fittings on the water pipe? What happened to the old dielectric union? Is that the way they do it in California?

Is that vent galvanized steel?

You need an expansion tank if you have a regulator or back flow preventer where the water comes into the house.

+ 1 on the dielectric unions. You need them to electrically isolate the heater. I also agree on avoiding flex pipes. I've never had a backflow valve or expansion tank at the heater, these are usually located at the point of use here (dishwasher, washing machine, etc)

I see a vent on your water heater. Is it gas heated?

If so, please, spend the extra monies for someone qualified to install it. Think in terms of the installation cost over the life of the water heater. Just pennies a day.... Now where have I heard that before? I am sure many have done so themselves and nothing bad happened. I also know, it looks simple, but messing with gas is not something you want to do. Additionally consider that even the lowly boring water heater has evolved and of course the building codes have as well too. Thus it is important that it be installed based upon the current state of technology and codes and installed in such a way that any potential for gas leaks is minimized or held in check.

No, I am not a plumber, I don't play one on TV, and I do not write books on plumbing or plumbers. I do however lay pipe on occasion.

Yes (even though I don't know you personally) I do want you and your family to be around a while!

Geez, gas lines are easy. You just need to use soapy water to check for leaks afterwards. Gas is not high pressure.

Sweating pipes is easy. Get one of those pipe end cleaners, sort of like the cleaner for a battery terminal. Flux on both side. Heat with a propane torch and it will smoke, touch solder and it will suck into the joint. Easy.

This is definitely a DIY job, probably a 2. Unless it is stuck in some inaccessible location.

+1