Ceramic tile , Trekkor , you out there??

[fastfredracing]

I am going to do a bathroom remodel starting this week at my own home. I plan on doing ceramic tile for the shower surround. I may tile up the whole bathroom, not sure yet.
Any how, I have done a bunch of tile floors, and I have gotten pretty good at it, but I have never tiled up walls. I am gutting the whole room, and doing new drywall. I have a couple of questions,
1), Regular drywall, or moisture resistant board? my buddy the drywaller, says just to use normal drywall.
2) Do I need to finish the drywall joints under the tile?
3). Adhesive. I am guessing you do not use mortar for this. I think I have heard the term mastic before.
Any other advice you would like to give out would be appreciated.
Thanks

[Dueller]

I'm not trek, but mastic is not normally used in areas where moisture may be a problem. You'll use Thinset...mix it yourself...don't buy in tubs/buckets.. Moisture resistant board for sure on the tub/shower surround...I've used regular in other areas of the bathroom. Seal the grout well. Rough finish of the drywall joints is fine but I would joint compountd/tape, i.e., you don'y have to have a mirrror smooth painted finish under the tile...unless you're using translucent glass tiles...then you'll need a consisitent color coat.

In your tub surround it is likely that it will be slanting towards the drarin...your first coursewill likely have ti be cut so the upper edge is level to continue upwards. Also, consider stopping the tile before you reach the ceiling...if its not perfectly level it will look crappy if you go all the way up. Tiling all the walls all the way up makes it feel like a prison cell...I'd recommend just around the tub and shower just for aesthetic purposes.

[Hugh R]

For a shower, you want something like cement board and a vapor barrier. Wait for Trekkor.

[trekkor]

Hello!

I'm happy to answer any and all tile questions and provide a pictorial documentary if needed

1. Moisture resident drywall is mandatory.
2. Do not set the tile over the sheet rock, so joint tape is optional.
3.Acrylic modified thinset mortar. Mastic is not a good choice in a wet area.
( yes, it will last for 12-15 years, but why not go for the Lifetime Install™? )

Would you like to see an example of a recent bathroom remodel?


KT

[trekkor]

You really need to float the walls in mortar.
If you are doing a tiled shower floor, you'd be doing yourself a dis-service by attemting any other method other than mortar.

The manufactured cement panels are great , for floors!


KT

[Dueller]

Hugh is correct...wait foir trek While I have seen green board work, concrete board is preferrable along with waterproof joint compound. And you will need to do a moisture barrier between studs and wall board. Oh yeah...use galvanized nails/screws.

I defer to the master.^^^^^ He has entered the building

[trekkor]

Cement board, aka, Durock, Wonderboard, Hardiebacker, Wediboard, Kerdiboard, etc,etc, will all work~ just like a Porsche and a Ford Escort are both cars.


KT

[Zeke]

When you say "shower surround" you mean over a tub? MRDW would probably be OK, not my first choice. Anyway, if you do go this route, leave the sheets up off the tub lip around 3/8ths ". Fill with the best caulk you can find using a couple of coats and dragging it level. Set the tile and leave another gap of about 3/16ths min. Some people fill the tub with water before grouting this gap. I don't grout the bottom edge of the first row. I use caulk and the kind that won't mildew. What you don't want is water intrusion along that gap and then getting the bottom of the DW wet.

One more tip: When you paper the wall before the sheets (you should), leave it long and trim later.

[trekkor]

This is how it's done!

Trekkor Wills's Photos - Current job | Facebook


KT

[Dueller]

Originally Posted by trekkor

Cement board, aka, Durock, Wonderboard, Hardiebacker, Wediboard, Kerdiboard, etc,etc, will all work~ just like a Porsche and a Ford Escort are both cars.


KT

Or shopping at Pelican or Pep Boys

Hey Trek..when's the next Lemons? Since the wife and steptwins are taking a cruise without inviting me, I'm thinking a road trip without asking/telling them

[VINMAN]

I would never, ever do a shower without Redgard.

Recently did a shower stall in Widi That stuff is sweet to work with (way overpriced but sweet nonetheless)

[trekkor]

Next LeMons race is this weekend!!
I'm painting the car tomorrow.



KT

[trekkor]

Originally Posted by VINMAN

I would never, ever do a shower without Redgard.

I'm not convinced that's the way to go.
I'm assuming you would laminated some surface with the Redgard ( trowel/roller applied waterproof/anti-fracture membrane ) before the install of tile.

The whole strength and longevity of the job is the bond strength of a 30-40 mil material, that is a newcomer on the market, right?

A mortar job is the highest quality installation currently available in the trade. Period.

When you use a manufactured panel as a setting surface, the wall will still be out of level/plumb/square unless you go to amazing extremes...Up to a point.
The wood framing in nearly every house is not real good. ( to say the least )

I built a shower in a 100+ year old B&B that had walls that were 1 1/4" vertically out of plumb in 8 feet.


If you are using a manufactured shower pan or tub, use the peel and stick window flashing over the nailing fin, up and onto the sheet rock. ( bituthane )
This will permanently eliminate water wicking into the sheetrock.

The beauty of a mortar shower enclosure, is that the tiled surface becomes simply a veneer. You could use it *for life* without the tile installed and it would not fail.
( How long could you pull that stunt over sheetrock?!? )


KT

[chapo]

Mortar bed, the only way to go. Redguard is great to waterproof the slab. Never put drywall in the shower or tub surround, asking for disaster.

[VINMAN]

Originally Posted by trekkor

I built a shower in a 100+ year old B&B that had walls that were 1 1/4" vertically out of plumb in 8 feet.
KT

Trek, I did a bathroom a few months ago. That I swore after I was done. I would get out of construction for life. What a nitemare. The floor was 2 in out of level in 7 ft. All the floor joists had been cut and notched in the basement. ( thank you a-hole plumbers and HVAC guys). Every wall was at least 3/4 out of plumb.

I agree, the mortar is the best way to go. Ive pulled shower walls down that were just tile and mastic over green board. Not good! Alot of the tile guys around here sold me on the Redgard. Thats what made me lean toward using it. Before that, I always used thinset over rock board. or Kerdi

[fastfredracing]

Thanks for all the help and advice guys.

[trekkor]

Anytime. Feel free to call me if you get in a bind.


KT