Is it Dog safe?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274978351.jpg

entemological data
 

Just getting back to you guys. I don't THINK that they are fire ants. they took over the territory in back FROM fire ants. There is a fire ant nest in the front neighbors yard and there is a difference both in the nest, appearance, and behavior. They look a little like phaero ants. They are small and darkish brown. I wouldn't say that they are "docile", but like I mentioned, I leave them alone and they leave me alone. I have a "compost heap" that they find interesting and any stinky trash like shrimp heads or rotten meat is dealt with pretty efficiently.

FWIW, ants are GREAT composters. anything but paper or plastic. I would love to get an Echidna, but they have specialized diets...and one would get lonely...so i would have to get a pair...the neighbors would see me walking them around the block for exercise...yea...My neighbors ALREADY think I am "odd" (can't blame em) and I don't think the Gated community rules and regs would allow it. Although that specific point isn't mentioned.

Yes, in retrospect...introducing one pest to destroy another may not be the best idea, however, the ants have lost interest in the house now that the tasty morsels have been exhausted and I took down their ramp. To get to the front they now have to cross fire ant country and well, those two species seem to have an understanding as to territorial boundaries.

Now.....Riddle me this Batman...WHY did the fire ants NOT attack the termites?

I tried to take pictures of my little buddies this afternoon.....BUT my camera just can't take close ups of something that small with any detail and showing little dots on the pavement was just too lame for me to post.

Boric acid = eye wash in low concentration. It's probably what makes "orange oil" work, but I don't know that for sure. Citric acid has to be a cousin.

Anyway, yes, pet and child safe if used properly.

Acid trip
 

Boric acid:

Yes, it is dog, cat, and Echidna safe, just keep it away from the food or water.

Good to use against Roaches as well. It dehydrates little varmits.
( I live in TX, I can use varmit in a sentence, Ma would be soo Proud!);)

Just one problem. They're carpenter ants. Doh!!

Milt,
How does one apply to regular termites or is this applied as a preventative barrier?

Does this work on subterranean termites as well?

Yup, we've got em'.

Sherwood

Carpenter diem
 

Ouch! that WOULD be out of the frying pan and into the fire. Nah, just to set you at ease they are NOT carpenter ants. I had those long ago in a land far far away. when a creature costs you money...you get to recognize it. Those things are larger and black. They don't actually EAT wood, they just carry it away to make nests inside your house. They essentially convert load bearing members into sawdust and deposit it neatly outside in piles. Think of it as a service that they perform for free.

In retrospect, it could have been worse. I noticed the incursion during one of my regular inspections. Another month or two and I would have been in serious doo doo. It is still going to cost me, but not break my bank. For future reference...take ALL trees and shrubs away from your foundations and house to a distance of 2 feet or so and no mulch within say 3 or more feet. I had been meaning to get around to that for a bit and well...I paid a small price.

my understanding is that carpenter ants do not destroy good, solid wood - instead they go after wood that is partly rotted, etc.

the nests in houses are subsidiary areas - there will be a "real" nest in a rotten stump or root somewhere near by

ones with wings are drones or queens, all lookin' to get laid

definitely remove vegetation right next to the house!

I think it would dissipate in the earth. There are 3 ways to apply.
as a power in concealed areas
as a foam in concealed areas (you can buy the foam agent)
as a solution anywhere that can have an exposed surface lightly rinsed.

Following termites passages is easy with the solution and anything to inject it. I sometimes use hobby style hypodermic needle bodies. I've seen a trigger spray with a WD 40 type of straw attached, but I can't find one to buy.

The foam is harder to use w/o specialized equipment. But it is a good method for concealed spaces.

The powder can be used with a squeeze bottle. Under cabinets and in cracks is a good application for powder.

Soaking loose lumber on the surface can protect against fungus and insects for many years before framing a house and enclosing the framed members. Exposed lumber not so much.