EEK Please Help: Guys Whats The Best HVAC System For My House? NO CARRIER!!!!!!

[EarlyPorsche]

Gents,

For the past 14 years my house has been in existence, I've had to have my A/C serviced every summer. Its either a leak, a circuit board, or something else. I am sick of it.

My house has two A/C systems. Everything is Carrier. I am done with this.

My compressor outside is working but whats in my attic is dead. What do I replace it with? Trane? Please recommend a model that works and lasts the long haul.

[126coupe]

I just put in a 20 seer, 5 ton unit, American Standard, lovin it

[look 171]

My HVAC sub contractor have always install American Standard in most of my jobs. I Just replaced the entire system in my parent's house early this year. You can't go wrong, they are good units.

[Eric Coffey]

Originally Posted by EarlyPorsche

Gents,

For the past 14 years my house has been in existence, I've had to have my A/C serviced every summer. Its either a leak, a circuit board, or something else. I am sick of it.

My house has two A/C systems. Everything is Carrier. I am done with this.

My compressor outside is working but whats in my attic is dead. What do I replace it with? Trane? Please recommend a model that works and lasts the long haul.

Trane makes a good product. However, if you just want to replace the "attic" parts (air handler/furnace) you will have to source one that matches the (outside) comressor/condesner. If you have an R22 system, you will need to source out an R22 air handler (evaperator/coil). The new systems are all R410, so that might be a challenge. If you want to upgrade to the new 410 stuff, you will need to replace the whole lot.

[billybek]

American Standard owned Trane until last year. Now Ingersol Rand owns them but the product line is very similar.
I like Trane equipment but some mechanics find them difficult to work on.
I have Trane equipment in my house and it has been for the most part problem free.
It is well worth getting matched equipment to provide the best efficiency.

[EarlyPorsche]

Thanks guys.

I am ok with replacing the compressor with the air handler as necessary. I know this sounds ridiculous and I should be embarrassed but: is the American Standard made in America? Is the Trane?

I know ingersol rand makes lots of their homeowner grade air products in China and the last thing I want are Chinese parts in my sweltering attic.

[EarlyPorsche]

Also, would my 1995-1996 vintage equipment be R22? Is R410 any worse?

[MarKoBrow]

I would lean towards a Trane unit or even any of Comfort-Aires units but before doing anything I would have a competent professional do a heat load test on your house. The leaks, broken circuit boards and constant service would indicate another problem that will not go away with a change of brand. It sounds like you may have to much system and are getting a humidity build-up which would explain leaks and bad circuit boards. This is a common problems as HVAC installers like to use a fudge factor and the bigger is better theory, it does not work with AC. Other things to check is the CFM's coming from the unit as well as being taken in. Lastly if you attic is sweltering you would want to think about using some sort of attic fan to evacuate that heat from your attic, this alone will allow your unit to run a little bit more efficiently and would also help eliminate condensation build-up

I happen to like Puron (R410) but there is really nothing wrong with the R22

[Eric Coffey]

Originally Posted by EarlyPorsche

Also, would my 1995-1996 vintage equipment be R22? Is R410 any worse?

I would bet that yours is R22. The 410 is a bit less efficient, per my A/C guy. However, R22 units have been phased out (though the actual refrigerant is still widely availble). So AFAIK, your only choice for R22 equipment is new-old stock, or used.

[Joe Ricard]

Put in a Lennox Xp 21 right at 2 years ago. Wonderful system, actually have saved 77 bucks a month on heating and cooling bills.

[EarlyPorsche]

Thanks gents. I think I need some math done on my house. This only runs the upstairs but if this helps any:

Right now the condenser has a hole in it and therefore won't hold R22.

I often have my unit "freeze" in the attic. This is what I am told. The result is usually water leaking onto the drywall under the unit

Do these facts help determine anything?

[MarKoBrow]

The water leaking usually is direct result too much condensation build-up which can be caused by having a unit that is too big, a fan that is too small or restricted, an attic that has improper ventilation. The strange thing about cases like this is that it usually is all three. What is the temperature difference between the rooms down the stairs and the attic? As far as the condenser having a hole that could be anything from a poor ground to corrosion from outside sources.

[EarlyPorsche]

I just had my basement condenser replaced because it was corroded out and leaking refrigerant. I am afraid to install a dedicated attic vent because of leakage. So does it seem like I should have them recalculate the size of my cooling system?

[MarKoBrow]

I can assume you have a flat or Hip roof? I usually exhaust vent an attic thru the top of the gable ends using the overhanging soffit as an air intake. There are other methods such as Energy and Heat Recovery Ventilators. If you cant vent your attic than insulate all the ductwork in the attic. Make positively sure that your fan unit is sized correctly for the area in which it will be servicing. When you have your heat load test done be mindful that the size types and orientation of your windows and the number of exterior doors is very important. It is also better to place your Evaporator/ Fan unit on the north side of the roof as it is a little cooler.

[EarlyPorsche]

Thanks Mark!

Quick question because the guy is coming out ASAP...I am going to ask him to do a heat load test on my home. What does that require just so I know he is doing what I am asking him to do. Also, it looks like I do have a vent its a ridge vent all across the top of the roof. I have a rather large roof but no part of it is flat.

I think all attic ducting is insulated but I am going to double check. I am also going to make sure the unit and all associated delicate stuff go on the north end.

[MarKoBrow]

I use software based on the Manual J Residential Load Calculation by the ACCA. What it means is he would measure the volume of the rooms to be cooled or heated, taking into account windows, doors, insulation, orientation and outdoor condition among other parameters. With all that information your professional should be able to size a system correctly for your home. As the consumer you can ask him if he is going to perform a heat load using the standardized method of testing. Most HVAC software is based on the Manual J for heat load and the Manual D for duct sizing. You are armed with the right questions to ask an HVAC professional questions that will command an answer and insure that the system will be sized right.

Good Luck

[EarlyPorsche]

Thank you incredibly I will keep you all updated on my progress. Trane or American Standard here I come. BYE BYE CARRIER!

[billybek]

When a system is low on refrigerant, it will freeze a small amount of coil after the expansion device. Due to the fact that the unit cannot keep up, it runs for a very loooong time and the small frozen part starts to spread to cover most of the evaporator coil.
I think that a lot of Trane residential products are manufactured in Charlotte NC. Some of the boards on the units are probably produced off shore.
Proper sizing is important and finding a good contractor to install it properly is very important.

[flipper35]

Take a look at a geothermal unit while you are looking.

[LWJ]

MarKoBrow has it. Manual J calc. I am a non-HVAC guy on the local board of ACCA. I think the issue is not equipment but contractor. Just my thoughts. As with MarKoBrow, find a contractor who knows what the heck a manual J is and then make decisions.
Good luck!
Larry