Door Framing - Interior Doors & Hinges

[RWebb]

I want to put up stained wood (CVG Doug. Fir) trim to replace the old painted doorways in my house.

I've about got all the doorways done that do not have doors in them.

So, now I need the easiest, simplest, most idiot-proof way to do this when an interior door is involved.

One thing I've thought of is to get the boards all cut then put them next to the old painted boards to see where the cutouts for the hinges should go.
- should I do that, or wait until I have them tacked up there and then hold the router horizontally to cut the area for the hinges (seems harder to me)?

Once the door is up there, then it seems like you'd use the closed door as a template to decide where to tack up those small strips that serve as stops for the door (yes?)


oh yeh - guess it's obvious that these are not pre-hung doors... I want to save the old doors there.

[Zeke]

Man, that's a complicated question, but I'll give you a simple answer in view of the fact that it takes years to understand all there is to door hanging.

Yes, do the layout on the hinge jamb while flat on the work bench. Don't forget the add whatever your top margin will be.

If you want to know more like degree of bevel on each edge of the door, be prepared for a long thread.

[trekkor]

I would think mating the door and hinges to the piece of wood on the bench first would be nice.

Fasten it to the opening then trim it out.

Got any cool progress pictures?


KT

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by trekkor

I would think mating the door and hinges to the piece of wood on the bench first would be nice.

Fasten it to the opening then trim it out.

Got any cool progress pictures?


KT

Well, there's that little matter of attaching the head jamb to both side jambs from the blind side before standing up in the rough opening.

[RWebb]

eh? I have just tacked the head jamb up then done the two side jambs (for the openings with no doors) - are you saying it all has to be assembled on the bench then put in place?

I can take a pic of the present setup - white paint, post if you want that.

[trekkor]

So many ways to do a project!


KT

[Scuba Steve]

Might not be bad to have a look...

Why can't the original doorways that will have a new door put in be replaced with a new stainable prehung door+frame? Is it to save the original frames where possible?

[RWebb]

I already have the CVG Fir & want to save the door itself. My thinking was that this was no big deal -- just like a non-doored doorway and then make some router cutouts for the hinges (wrong?)

[dipso]

If your good with a tape measure you should be able to do it.
Not only are you going to have to get the height right, but don't forget about how much hinge hangs out over the jamb.
You might router out the hinge recess but when you attach the hinge the door doesn't close flush, straight or sits all cockeyed.

I have hung a couple of doors but I only have a chisel and hammer. I am no expert.

Give it a shot. If it doesn't work you have only ruined the hinge side of the jamb.
The doors already have the hinges in them, right? That's what you are trying to save.

If you have to router the door and the jamb, I would be a little nervous.
You can do it.

[dipso]

If your good with a tape measure you should be able to do it.
Not only are you going to have to get the height right, but don't forget about how much hinge hangs out over the jamb.
You might router out the hinge recess but when you attach the hinge the door doesn't close flush, straight or sits all cockeyed.

I have hung a couple of doors but I only have a chisel and hammer. I am no expert.

[RWebb]

thx - I'll just have at it then.

Seems like I can just set the router depth using the other

One thing is I'm not clear on what sort of errors (tolerances) are required... as usual - I've worked in all sort of tolerances - took classes as a machinist and cabinet maker and used to date a metrologist at hp - so there is a lot of variable variances floating around in my head...

[john70t]

Not an expert, but I'd concentrate on the spacing first before any finishing.
-Measure the width of each door to the opening and make sure there is enough gap for swinging, but enough width to fill the gaps with 1/4 round or whatever trim you use.
-Measure the heigth to make sure it will completely fill the space. I recommend avoiding interior threshholds because of the tripping hazard.

If the door is too small, you may have to use thicker frame jams. Or take them out, cut shorter, and shim to make a smaller total opening.
Trim will have to be taken off and corrected also.

If the door are too big for the opening, you may have to cut, plane, and/or belt sand them smaller. Careful with this, as the solid edges are not very thick on hollow-cores.

Either measure the hinge location carefully off the doors(adding the gaps), or shim doors in place and mark the hinge cutouts directly.


There probably a good how-to on youtube or a diy site.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by milt

Man, that's a complicated question, but I'll give you a simple answer in view of the fact that it takes years to understand all there is to door hanging.

Yes, do the layout on the hinge jamb while flat on the work bench. Don't forget the add whatever your top margin will be.

If you want to know more like degree of bevel on each edge of the door, be prepared for a long thread.

2 1/2 degrees, but I like 2. You see, short and easy.

[look 171]

Make sure the door's width is the same at the top, middle section and bottom. If its just a little, I would plane it so that its sq. Try to pre hang the door to a jamb on the bench, then screw the other pieces together and install the jamb. The hinge side must be plumb. Lets hope your old door isn't warp. Shim and fit the jamb to the door and not the other way around like a new door.that's the most painless way if you have never hung a door before. For me, I would attach the jamb then cut the gain for the hinges and fit the jamb to the door. it requires a bit more experence but a takes a lot less time. I hate fitting old doors to new openings. The door is usually not sq. god only knows I have done enough to pay my way through college years ago. Now I am still doing it. good luck.

jeff

[look 171]

Originally Posted by RWebb

thx - I'll just have at it then.

Seems like I can just set the router depth using the other

One thing is I'm not clear on what sort of errors (tolerances) are required... as usual - I've worked in all sort of tolerances - took classes as a machinist and cabinet maker and used to date a metrologist at hp - so there is a lot of variable variances floating around in my head...

3 /32" gap is good on all three side. I hate tape mesures. I use a stick and a sharp pencil to transfer hinge markings.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by look 171

2 1/2 degrees, but I like 2. You see, short and easy.

Not so. The butt edge is a constant while the latch edge is less for each door wider than your base, which I will assume is a 2'6"

I've had 12" side lights that required a double bevel to clear the jamb. A simple single plane bevel on a 12" casement sash or side light is more like 10 degrees.

But you knew that. Don't tell all the secrets, man.

[Crowbob]

If you are trying to save the hinges, the way I did it was to attach the hinges to the door, then stood the door up on blocks and shims at 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the wall. Swing the hinges open so they lie against the jamb. Be sure the door is plumb and level, at the correct height and correct distance from the jamb. Then I used the hinges as a template for marking where to chisel out the recesses in the jamb to accept the hinges. If the door is level and plumb it may stand by itself. If not, use tape to hold it in place long enough to draw the templates.

[RWebb]

Thanks

hmmm, chisel? I was hoping to just mark it, set up my neighbor's jig, and then whip the router around.

[what's wrong with my idea?]

[dad911]

Lay the door on a pair of saw horses, Clamp the jamb perpendicular on top of the hinge side of the door, and either use a square to transfer the hinge lines, or use the hinge itself.

Then set up your neighbor's jig, and whip the router around......

I would probably build the frame around the door, then hang the assembly like a pre-hung door.

Or you could leave the old frame in place, veneer the jambs and just replace the trim.

[RWebb]

thx

re the alternative - if I veneer the jambs, how do I deal with the reveal - just move the side trim over?

how about the door - it would have to be smaller than it is now(?)