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Then you spent too much on the tranny rebuild....
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It was a serious rebuild. I don't do anything half-arsed...
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Quote:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284120906.jpg I think it was a little too hot / humid in my shop (about 115f - 85%) when I applied the clear... it acted just like a chemical stripper would (except it turned hard once it dried)... made me sick after all the hard work I put into that thing.... I had to take the guitar back down to bare wood... My daughter asked me for the guitar and I gave it to her... She came up with the new paint job... we are going to skip the clear coat this time... still need to put the new tuners and strings on it.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284121227.jpg |
sounds like you put lacquer over enamel. that's a big no no. instant wrinkle paint. never paint when the humidity is that high. the clear will trap the moisture and blush the paint.
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Yep, instant wrinkle is what it was... I used normal spray paint to paint it with and the clear coat was from the same manufacturer, same color cans and everything.... never had anything I've painted to do that...
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Why did you seal yours before you primed? and did you use any filler at all? if so what did you go with?
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The top coat dried faster than the base coat for some reason. I've had it happen myself. It's not pretty. Time to get out the sand paper.
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yes first I used a glazing putty with a rubber squeegee to fill the grain. Then a sanding sealer to further fill the grain and level the surface, The body is mahogany, very porous wood. If you don't fill the grain it will show when the the paint fully dries as it sucks down. Nitro never really cures like poly it ages forever.
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What putty did you use, something specific for wood? The reason I ask, is because I purchased some wood filler but it had a sandy texture to it and I would like to find something with a smoother/stronger texture....
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go to an auto paint supply store. It's called fill and glaze. Get a bunch of rubber squeegees while yer there.
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