Audi ABS controll module repair or replacement.

71T Targa · 09-23-2010, 08:35 AM

Has anyone had any luck having their ABS control module rebuilt? My '99 A4 needs to have the module rebuilt/repaired/replaced and I'm looking for options.

The pelican repair kit looks to be a drop in replacement for the entire module, is this the case?

Thanks all
(except the Audi bashers, you know who you are)

rick-l · 09-23-2010, 08:57 AM

Is the pelican one a new part from Bosch? That part screws onto the hydraulic control unit with some torx fastners.

Have you done a search?

If I understand correctly there is a hybrid circuit that a bond wire to the connector breaks because of where the unit is mounted.

You remove the controller from the hydraulic control unit and send it in to be rebuilt which consists of hacking the top off, gluing the lead back on with conductive adhesive and sealing it back up with bathtub caulk.

Or you could try that yourself. Some have used solder on the tiny wires.

MarKoBrow · 09-23-2010, 09:10 AM

If you get a chance post the part #, I may have one in my garage, you can have it if it is the same. Shipping not included......

71T Targa · 09-23-2010, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick-l

Is the pelican one a new part from Bosch? That part screws onto the hydraulic control unit with some torx fastners.

Have you done a search?

If I understand correctly there is a hybrid circuit that a bond wire to the connector breaks because of where the unit is mounted.

You remove the controller from the hydraulic control unit and send it in to be rebuilt which consists of hacking the top off, gluing the lead back on with conductive adhesive and sealing it back up with bathtub caulk.

Or you could try that yourself. Some have used solder on the tiny wires.

The pelican one looks like a new controller from Bosch and is just a new part that goes on the 'pump'

I've done a search here and elsewhere, and there seems to be mixed opinions on rebuilding. If it's really as easy as pulling the unit and soldering a lead I can probably do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarKoBrow

If you get a chance post the part #, I may have one in my garage, you can have it if it is the same. Shipping not included......

I don't see the part number on the black control module, but the aluminum pump is: 8E0 614 111 A, so Pelican lists the part number as 8E0-998-375-M14

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Is this the "shuttle valve switch failure code?" If so it's an easy fix without part replacement.

71T Targa · 09-23-2010, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott R

Is this the "shuttle valve switch failure code?" If so it's an easy fix without part replacement.

I don't think so. I think it was a 'can't communicate with the control module' code.

71T Targa · 09-23-2010, 10:36 AM

Another site listed the part number as 0 273 004 284 ???

rcooled · 09-23-2010, 12:19 PM

I had these guys rebuild the ABS module on my '99 Audi A4 and it worked out very well. Good price and quick turnaround.

ModuleMaster rebuilds ABS modules for as low as $100, 2 day average turn-around, 5 Year Guarantee

These things aren't real DIY friendly since they are a sealed unit. Module Master slices the housing open, makes the repair, then epoxies the housing back together. The resulting seam is hardly noticeable. Swapping out the module is quite simple...no need to even bleed the system afterwards.

71T Targa · 09-23-2010, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcooled

I had these guys rebuild the ABS module on my '99 Audi A4 and it worked out very well. Good price and quick turnaround.

ModuleMaster rebuilds ABS modules for as low as $100, 2 day average turn-around, 5 Year Guarantee

These things aren't real DIY friendly since they are a sealed unit. Module Master slices the housing open, makes the repair, then epoxies the housing back together. The resulting seam is hardly noticeable. Swapping out the module is quite simple...no need to even bleed the system afterwards.

Cool, thanks. They were the one place that had good enough reviews that I'd consider sending out to.

Did you really need to remove the front wheel and fender liner to get the control unit out? It looks like you should be able to get to it from the top.

rcooled · 09-23-2010, 01:42 PM

You know, I did that job several years ago....but now that I think about it, I did have to remove the fender liner. I believe there's at least one or two screws along the bottom of the unit that're impossible to get at without doing so. I don't remember it being a PITA, though. It took a little extra time but wasn't all that difficult.