My 2 cents since I started late (40-ish). Kind of rough learning since I was living in a dense urban area at the time... so I started with a 50 cc scooter after the safety class (class is well worth it - do it). Sold it for what I bought it for, and this got me comfortable in heavy traffic, without worrying about gears. After a few months, got a 600 Ducati supersport. Would not recommend a sport bike early on... being on tip-toes at lights was a bit stressful, especially if the ground is uneven. Later graduated to a 1000 Duc sport classic... but it took me a year of riding the 600 to feel comfortable moving up. Dropped every one of them at some point... expect it

Got my wife started on the scooter, and she later had a little GZ 250 Suzuki. Now that is a GREAT starter bike. Zero cool factor, but so, so easy to learn... if you bought it used, you will not get hurt when you sell in six months or a year.

Anyway, don't rush it. I have a friend who started with a 600... he has crashed three times, last time got some broken bones and a ruptured spleen. By starting small, I developed skills over time, and though I dropped the bikes at times (always at rest), I never went down while riding

They will tell you in your class that new riders over 40 are the most likely to get hurt... because they have the money to buy the big bikes, before the develop their skills.

I know i'm probably banging the same drum over and over... but don't get something new and don't get something expensive. You're gonna drop it.

And always remember... it's not a question of IF you get hit, but WHEN.

Hey, it happens. I've heard it said that you should drop your bike as soon as you buy it, you know, just to get it over with.

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My first bike was a '75 Honda CB550. When I moved on (to an FZR600) I sold it for what I'd paid. Currently, the CB550 is a popular starting point for cafe conversion.

Great choice with a SV it can go from putting around town to being a very very capable club race bike in the lightweight twins classes. (even the first generation models)



pic at Barber T15 of some friends from Iowa on SV 650s. The lead bike is piloted by Mike, he didn't start riding until he was semi retired in his 60s
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Appreciate the advice.

I wouldn't say I'm the ideal type of beginner, but after logging tens of thousands of miles on a bicycle, I finally learned no one can see me. The main adjustment is getting accustomed to more weight, and learning to look farther down the road.

I never would have considered the SV650 based on its looks--it looks like a sport bike that would eat up a newbie. However, the reviews speak for the bike.

I've been in contact with the seller of the blue SV650. He has the title in hand and is eager to sell. I'm trying to find the time to drive east and find a way to load a 400 lb bike in the back of a truck. The next motorcycle class is next weekend.

I'm definitely game for the SV650, but in the back of my mind I'm thinking, "Buy something dirt cheap locally. Beat it up until next fall and then buy something interesting." On the other hand, I can buy a four year old SV650 for $2500. Geez... can I really lose?

Should I buy a helmet locally to get a great fit? Prices are all over the map. Is there any bare minimum I should budget. I'm planning to get full face unless there's something great about the flip down helmets.

I have owned bikes my whole life and raced MX for many years out of the back of a pickup truck. For loading street bikes into the back of pickup trucks, I simply use a 6' long 2 x 10 with a homemade metal bent lip on it.... I simply stand beside the running bike and let it drive itself half way up then apply front brake, and hop into the bed then run it the rest of the way into the bed. This is child's play for me, but could be problematic for folks with little experience. One can cheat a bit by backing truck up to a curb or low spot in yard to reduce the angle of the board. Dirt bikes just get 2 ancra straps (one one each handlebar).... I typically use 4 straps on heavier street bikes (two up front and two in rear). I always stand bike upright and do not use kickstands. I have NEVER had a bike fall over in truck during transport even with crazy driving in my younger years.

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I have not ridden an SV650 but their reputation is excellent and I think it sounds like a good choice. In the back of my mind is a V-Strom at some point. An Alaska trip is on my bucket list.

Logging miles on a bicycle like you have is a huge help. I did the same and feel much safer on the motorcycle all geared up than I ever did on the bike. Of course you're not doing 70 in traffic on a 4 lane freeway on a bicycle either.

Seems like you are on the right track. Buy your gear where you can try it on. I have car and motorcycle helmets from Bell and Arai and each manufacturer and each model fit differently.

I would echo Tim's advice on loading up a bike into a pickup. 10-foot long 2x4 with a little metal lip to ease the transition into the bed. I'm sure you can get that little metal lip at most motorcycle supply stores, and bolt it onto the wood. Also rest the tail end of the "ramp" into a crack in the ground, so that it doesn't slide out from under you with the 400# bike on it. Have a spotter--I'm sure the seller won't mind helping. Put a stool or chair by the tailgate, so you can step from the ground to the tailgate smoothly while supporting the bike. Just turn on the motor and slip the clutch--let the bike do the work of getting up the ramp. If you can back the truck up to a loading dock/low wall/driveway, that'll make the job that much easier.

Unloading the bike, just roll it off (again, with a spotter), using the front brake to control the descent down the ramp. You can unload a bike off the back of a pickup without a ramp, but it'll entail enlisting the help of 3 others.

You can use motorcycle specific tiedowns (rachet type is preferred), or even just twine to secure the bike (obviously not as ideal, but I've done it before). Hang onto the front brakes and put your weight over the front end to compress the suspension, then have someone else tie down the front. If you do it right, you don't have to tie down the rear, though I'm sure if this is the first time you're doing so you'll probably feel more secure doing so. Kickstand up.

At any given time I'm usually wearing about $1k worth of riding gear and that's not the fancy stuff by any means. Remember, you dress for the crash, not for the ride. I don't believe much in these $700 Arai helmets. But I think my $330 Shoei is pretty nice, I wear Olympia Airglide pants, Axo boots, Tourmaster jacket and gloves. When I started out I had a Scorpio helmet and wore an orange vest over my North Face winter coat. Now I am totally dressed for the crash and feel I'd be able to walk away from a good fall if I didn't get hit by another car while down.

EXACTLY. I had some pretty decent stuff. Icon riding timax jacket, alpinestars padded gloves and pants, some really good steel-toe/steel-shank boots.

This was the worst of it when I got t-boned on my left side by idiot driver. Well, that and some nasty muscle damage in my back (that's never going away...)
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I started with a BMW R100GS, then onto an XR650. I had the craving for speed and got the KZ, but without the dirt it gets old quick. I think the next one will be a 1100 GS or maybe a V-Strom. I have found that I want something that will do 80mph all day, but still capable of hitting a fireroad.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288463966.jpg

No.

Yes. I only wear Arai, mainly becuase they fit my head shape better. Different models of helmets (even withing one brand, such as Arai) have different shell shapes (and I'm not talking the size, just the shape.) Full face only; nothing that flips up or down. No open face helmets.

Find a dealer who has someone that really knows how to fit one and has been doing it for a LONG time. Most sales people don't know enough. Be picky. Wear it in the store as long as you can. Be willing to swap out the cheek pads to get a better fit.

In my experience, few dealers will carry much of a selection of the good brands. They'll steer you to a cheaper brand, which I'd stay away from. I have to drive to a neighboring state, if I want to sample a selection. In my area, nobody stocks the good stuff.

As for budget, I'd say at least a grand. I wear more, sometimes double that, if I'm headed out of town and wear full leathers. At minimum: helmet, jacket, boots, gloves and pants. I like leather, made by the big three or four brands. If a company doesn't make race gear, I'm not interested in their street stuff. Heavy, good quality hides; built in armour and double layers, where it's needed; double stitching; kevlar thread, etc.

I'd cruise the major motorcycle magazine web sites and see what sort of articles they have archived, concerning riding gear.

JR

Turbo...you MUST try on the helmet. Fit is critical to safety . And a helmet that makes your head ache is no fun.

An SV is a fun bike but if it is stock the suspenders and brakes won't be great so be aware of that. And it will accelerate faster than you may think. Forgive me if it seems like I'm talking down to you but if you are a true beginner the safety considerations cannot be overstated.

I'd recommend trying a helmet on before buying. For 15-30 minutes in the shop. Snug, but not tight. If you want, you can then go shopping online to find a better deal. I'd also recommend trying on one of the expensive brands, for comparison's sake. Arai, Shoei, Suomy. I have an Arai head, personally.

However, a few years ago there was an article in Motorcyclist magazine (entitled "Blowing the Lid Off" IIRC) about the relative safety of full face helmets. They didn't test the high end brands, but interestingly they found that one of the cheapest helmets tested protected the best in their labarotory tests. You may or may not agree with their conclusions, but I think the article is at least an interesting read.

Helmet, gloves, jacket, pants, boots. That's an easy grand.

Cycle Gear has a store nearby. If I get time this week, I'll stop by a few shops and try helmets.

Thanks for the loading tip, Tim. My brother told me to take a scaffolding walkboard (7' long x 24" wide with aluminum tread). I didn't think the bike would handle the steep slope, but a buddy said he used 2x lumber until he finally bought a trailer.

I'm still game for the SV650, but after surfing more websites, the DRZ400SM looks like a good match. It's a supermotard with modest, but still good engine. It's very light weight and has good seat height. The used prices are higher, though. I can definitely see the advantage to the flickable dual sport bikes that can take tumbles without a hiccup.

Tim, is that an 8' bed on the pick up? Will the tailgate close? I'm thinking of getting a truck for a DE car tow vehicle and if it will fit the bike, all the better. (I'm too lazy to go out and measure the wheelbase of my bike. :) )

We load my CR125 and KTM EXC300 in the back of my superduty, long bed crew cab 4X4 F350
The gate closes with room to spare .

A buddy with a dakota has to diagonal load his bike.

No that was my old Tacoma 6' bed. The old CB450's are about 6 1/2 ft long, so no the gate would not shut.

Yep, pulled my small trailer up there and trailered it back.

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