Rotating spoons
 

I'm finally going to pickup my first rotating spoon.

I'd like a 2-3", 6 round, .357, in Stainless.

I was looking at the S&W, but here are the Options:

Rossi: R46202 - $348 (6 rnd, 2")

Ruger: SP101 Model KSP-321X - $460 (5nd, 2.25")

Taurus: 605 - $368 (5 rnd, 2")

S&W - Model 60 - Chiefs Special - $591 (5rnd, 2.125")

S&W - 686- $682.64 (6rnd, 2.5")

Are the S&W really that much better than the Taurus or Rossi?

I was thinking of getting the Rossi (6rnd) , then also getting an 8" Taurus

Model 608, 8", 8 Rnd, $505.

Ideas?

You sure you want that short of a barrel? With a .357 round I went with 4" to balance a little better. I also went with the 686 7-shot...just because :D

Yep, for carry, the 2" is about right.

What he said... firing my friends 6" Colt python with full magnum rounds is like holding a stick of dynamite.

me im a smith nut. why they fit really good. with a pair of pachs on them they are great.


all have been tuned w/in a inch of their lil lives by nelson ford.

trigger job double and single action

triggers polished

cylinders chamfered for ease of hks speedloaders.



as i have said befo here. a .357 is a nasty nasty round and the reason why cops dont carry them anymore is because of overpenetration of humanoids.


read up on history of round and ballistics. actually developed in the 30's to STOP CARS aka gangsters. no poo!


heres a lowdown on the "J" frames


1 7/8" barrel.............very snappy and you wont like +P's in it let alone standard .357's. use .38 hornaday +P's

2" barrel a lil less snappy but you still wont like +P .357's rds. use std hornady .357PD rounds or .38's


above are CCW only.


4" barrel no snap with +P's very comfortable with pachy grips for all rounds. perfect sidearm when hunting.

6" barrel no snap from any rounds, a lil heavier to carry but mucho velocity due to length of barrel


above are "K" frames.



smith warranty service is excellent.


if your gonna reload HOT then buy the ruger. bigger thicker frames.



every inch you add to barrel you gain velocity. yes theres a scientific equation.



for CCW .45/9mm/.38/.380


for hunting/camping/fishing/quading/dirty biking/jeeping.................357/.44



and i have the marlin stainless .357 lever and the stainless .44 mag lever-both 200yd knock the poo outta anything lightweight truck spoons.

10 rds for .44 9 rds for .357 on the levers.



buy STAINLESS and you will thank me.

There is no plan to load anything buy .38 SPL into this for CCW.

I live in Houston. Stainless is essential for CCW. I have to clean and lube my .380 a lot, even though it has a nickle plating.

this is pretty cool.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288218680.jpg

Mateba Model 6 Unica

airweights are SNAPPY. trust me. have shot a few.


i love my model 60's................freeking flat azz IDIOT PROOF!


supersmith job here goes for 119.00 over and above cost of spoon. trigger polished,cylinder chamfered for speedloaders and double/single trigger job. 99% of the time a smith will have the PERFECT single action out of the factory. its the double action trigger that 99% of the time needs some TLC.


buy (2) hks sppedloaders, load w/flavorite devastating flavor for personal defense...........and ye shalt not fear the valley of doom and gloom!



i like hornadays personnal dee-fense rounds, and remingtons golden sabers.



wicked wicked nasty nasty exit holes. ask the furry creatures who have reluctantly enlisted in my testing program.



try and find a model 60 without the INTEGRAL TRIGGER LOCK. these are getting hard to find now.

Having shot the smiths.... Buy one of them... They are extremely good pistoles....

If you are only going to use .38 Specials, then why the extra weight and expense of a .357?

A stainless, 5 shot .38 special is superb for self defense. I have never felt under-gunned with one.

A high quality revolver like a S&W will function after tens of thousands of rounds, allowing for the practice which you should perform.

While some revolvers are less expensive and all can be slicked up by a knowledgeable gunsmith, many are less durable than a S&W.

crap - thought I'd see pics of a Lewis Gun

Lewis guns do not rotate.

My brother-in-law has a S&W model 627 in .357. That is a great, smooth shooting gun but obviously not for CCW. I have a couple airweights in .38 which I would highly recommend. I can't imagine shooting a .357 in a CCW sized gun.

Do any of the Ruger Speed-Six, Service-Six or Security-Six come in stainless? Ruger GP100 in 4" isn't a bad choice.

If you're concerned about sweat affecting finish, find a total beater 686 and mail it to Robar for NP3 and some other tasty mods. I've done that a few times and, if you really know how to find good deals, you can end up with an amazing custom gun for less than a new one would run you. I'm sure I've seen 686's in 7 rnd. for sale around here for pretty reasonable prices. I'd stick with Smith over the others too. My 29 is a brut.

This is a S&W Highway Patrolman 28-3. Built in about 1986. It was built as a service pistol and doesn't have a super smooth finish that guns made for the civilian market tend to have. I really like it but I haven't put enough rounds through it yet to get properly used to it. I hope it turns out to be like the gun club's 686 which is phenomenally accurate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288252351.jpg

Let me smack you up side of the haid boy..you bin around spoons long enugh to know all about Smiths...and about quality and that U should buy the best you can afford. It pays in the long run. BELIEVE ME I HAVE BIN DOIN THIS FOR OVER 30 YEARS

This is sooo much of a no brainer...Buy the Smith 686 with a 6 inch barrel FOR A FIRST WHEEL GUN..U WILL NOT BE SORRY. obviously for a virgin wheel gun boy it is not an issue of CCW. You want sumthin that you can enjoy in a variety of circumstances..like goin to the range or the fields and blastin away at them Liberal alumium cans and bottles. Usein heavy or light loads..and shootin out the eye of a nat at 25 paces...I do think that would be your best bet for a virgin..as you git more experienced handlin them wheel gun honeys then you can look to a dedicated purpose.

Now here is the deal go to Gun Broker...and start looking at the used ones. OR BETTER yet take a look at Collectors Firearms in Houston..he is online and posts his NEW inventory everyday on line. I bought both of my 686's from him..and don't forget to ask him is this is the best he can do on the price...HE DOES WHEEL AND DEAL..686's are one of the spoons that has gone up this year.. I used to see em go at auction for $425 to $450 hammer price and now it is $500 to $550 hammer

BUY IT USED..there are plenty of NEW IN THE BOX ones out there. Buy one with a serial number prefix starting with an A. SN numbers since 1982 start with a 3 letter prefix starting with AAA and working up as time goes on...also S&W uses model number changes yo denote engineering changes..686, 686-1, 686-2, 686-3 etc...my point is to buy a mid to late 1980's S&W..the used prices don't really vary much on the age of the 686 spoon, but I just like em OLD. Also I don't think much of them new fangled 7 shooters nor with the dam key hole locks on the frame..those definitely will not endear themselves to the collectors.

I bought my 8 inch 686 from him for $410 in the spring of last year. My total cost with shipping,receiving & registring here in LV was $490. The FFL's here nick me for a cool $50 to register..$25 to city state and $25 to the Dealer. No way around it..Ironically this summer I bought a High Standard that came with a early 686 8 inch barrel box..so now I got a box to go with my 8 incher..

The second 686 was a 4 inch NIB circa late 80's...and that one I have just about $625 out the LV Dealer door and that was in the fall of 09.

also this goes for all U BOYZ..KEEP ALL THE ORIGINAL PACKAGING..it means money on the resale end of the equation. I have a gun collector friend that goes APEY on having the original boxes..as in he only likes to buy em with the box and he does pay more for a spoon with a box...yep Tommy I am talkin about ya behind your back...he lurks here btw..

I think we have a 600 series S&W at the shop. I will look when I go in tomorrow and let you know. We bought a huge collection from an estate. Most are unfired and in the box, but we still have to sell them as used guns, a savings to you.

DO NOT use hoppes or any type of copper cutter on the nickel. It will get under the nickel and eat the copper base metal away and start to flake the nickel plating.

Typically I'm using carb cleaner and a brass brush for everything but the barrel. Barrel gets a bit of one of the solvents first.