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Winterizing Ducati
Last year I drove the bike pretty late in the season and early next. This year I'm putting it away early and will most likely be taking it out late. Storing in heated space.
What's the best way to keep fuel and carbs clean? Fill tank and add Stabil? or empty tank to dry? anything else to consider? |
Drain the tank and the carbs. Stabil doesn't helpas much with the crap that passes for gasoline these days, especially if you are afflicted with gas containing ethanol.
The usual other things apply; fresh oil change, make sure other fluids are within time/age parameters, tires inflated to max sidewall pressure (or lifted from the ground) intake and exhaust corked, bike clean and paint waxed, battery removed and stored on a battery tender, etc. JR |
Man thats a lotta work.... Glad I live where I can just play with my toys year round.....
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I agree with JR, best thing to do is drain the tank and carbs. The drain the oil and refill with new.
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I used to fill the tank and add Stabil. Ran the motor for a few minutes just make sure the carbs were filled with the mixture, as well. I didn't want to leave the tank empty, for fear of rust forming on the inside. Take that for whatever it's worth.
I also fogged the cylinders with a couple cc's of motor oil, then turned the crank to try to get it to coat the bores. I would spray/wipe metal parts (frame, bolts) with WD40 to try to prevent rust, as well. The one winter I didn't do it in New England, I wound up with a dusting or rust in a couple places. I changed the oil with some cheapo stuff, then changed it again in the spring with good stuff. That might have been overkill. But I never left the previous season's oil sitting over the winter. Otherwise, like javadog recommended: Covered the intakes and muffler tip with a plastic bag to keep rodents out. I didn't always have wheel stands, so I hyperinflated the tires to prevent flat-spotting. Battery was removed and kept on a trickle charger. |
Dang.....you guys do a lot. I generally fill the tank full (if metal....so no rust), inflate the tires, put the gals on a trickle, throw a cover over them and go skiing. There are days even in winter where we will see mid 50's so they usually see some kind of use during Dec - March.
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In FL. Winterizing is putting on long sleeves:p
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Specific to a 900ss-Shaun, look at the lower corners of the tank-they are below the pump intake. Any water will find its way down there, and the tank WILL rust out, ask me how I know....fixed mine with marine tank epoxy, but would prefer you not have to.
If you are storing the bike, I'd run her dry, then remove the tank and drain it by turning it upside down, then check for rust and if lucky, POR it. Or jsut buy a carbon tank :) |
I have probably 50 internal combustion engines. For years, I would simply park the vehicle indoors and shut the gas petcock off. If I thought of it, I might charge the battery once or twice and run the engine until it was hot....
Never had a problem until the last few years when the gas formulation began clogging pilot jets solid. Tried Stabil, but it is not 100%. Now I am draining/siphoning all my gas and replacing with $$$$ Avgas to avoid the mandatory carb teardowns each spring/fall. Effing enviro-nazi govt fuel additive regulations. :mad::mad::mad: |
An option to POR is a product called Kreem. Three-part process of cleaning the tank with an acid solution, then a rinse, and finally a coating for the inside of it. Then you can store it dry without fear of rust. Just don't plug the vent hole with the final coating step.
Tim and Java have good points on the use of Stabil. My advice is based upon what I did when I last lived in New England, three years ago. If gasoline formulation has changed since then, perhaps Stabil is no longer the way to go. |
I'll take 8 months of riding in the Colorado Rockies vs. your 12 mos with roads that put you to sleep :)
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I change out the motor oil, fill the tank and stabilize it, trickle it and start drinking. If I had carbs I'd drain the bowls for sure.
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Thank you Gentlemen! Will get this done this weekend, going to turn in the plates tomorrow. Bike will be object #3 for the crane. Casters have been ordered, going to start making the base this weekend. Should be able to really go through the bike this winter here at work.
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I'll just fill the tank, put it on front and rear stand, and leave it on a trickle charger. Here in Seattle, we do get the ocassional sunny, dry day in the winter, and I'll take the bike out and run it around the neighborhood until its at up to operating temp.
I've never used stabil. Are there any potential downsides to it? |
Ditto on the bad fuel=my injected bikes were fine, but my son's VFR will clog jets in a month or two if not run-modern fuel is evil...
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The gas we have today is crap. I wouldn't store it for more than 30 days. Race gas lasts much longer, certainly long enough to last a winter. I figure that if there's no gas in something, it can't evaporate and cause me any problems. I don't get tank rust, as my garage is heated and very dry. JR |
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I simply cannot say whether the "old Stabil" which definitely helped keep older formulations of gas "fresh" will stop the new formulation from developing deposits in carbs. I am not willing to experiment anymore as tearing a bunch of carbs down every season just is not cutting it for me anymore. For now I will simply stick with doing the Avgas swap. |
Crate up the Duc and ship it to San Pedro Calif., I'll park it inside and take it for rides on the weekend to keep the battery charged up for ya.
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