Need a GMC Truck repair manual, covering 03 model year

[Joe Bob]

Shot in the dark, anyone have one laying around? I have the 88-98 manual but need the 99-05 one.....

TIA

[deanp]

What are you looking for? I have a Chilton manual at home for '00-05 for our '03 Tahoe. Can look up info for you, but need to hang on to it.

[Joe Bob]

Front and rear brakes.....

[deanp]

PM me an email address and I'll send pages tonight.

[Rufblackbird]

pad replacement or disc removal? or both? I have the Haynes manual...

[yetibone]

I do about 3 half-tons a month. What'chu needa know?

[Joe Bob]

The ride has almost 100K and on the factory delivered set of pads. It's a 2500 (3/4 ton) with four wheel discs. Quad steer if it matters. It's a non badged Denali.....was a special ordered Buick National car.

I just put on new tires and the pads are getting close. I'd like to do the pads myself, since I'm a cheapobastard.....

[David]

It's very straight forward. I've never needed one for brakes on my '01 Silverado.

[Joe Bob]

Do the pads slip out of the caliper or does the caliper have to come off?

[Burnin' oil]

I have changed pads on our '03 Suburban a number of times. Pretty simple. Calipers come off.

[yetibone]

You'll have to remove the calipers from their brackets, then the pads slip out of the brackets.

To get the calipers off, you'll either need a #45 or #50 Torx bit, or a 17mm, or 18mm box-end wrench to remove the caliper bolts. Once off, use a long, flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the caliper towards you against the outer edge of the rotor. This is to make sure the pistons clear the little locating dots that are sometimes made onto the brake pads to keep the anti-squeal shims in place on the back of the pads. Once the calipers are loose, you can remove them, and set them out of the way.

Out with the old pads, in with the new pads. It's good to put a little molybdenum grease in the little channels that the pads sit in on the brackets.

You probably know how to do the rest. It's like any other set of brakes at this point. I would suggest opening the bleeder screws when pushing the pistons back in so's you don't push any nassy fluid back up through the EBCM (antilock pump assembly), which can sometimes damage the module if the fluid is saturated, or has been extremely hot.

If you aim to replace the rotors too, you would need eat your Wheaties, and grab an 18mm six-point socket, on a 1/2" ratchet with a cheater pipe to remove the brackets from the spindles. They have a ridiculous amount of thread locking compound on the bolts, and come off hard the whole way sometimes. After taking the brackets off, the rotors slide off the hubs. You might have to knock the rotors between the lug studs with a hammer to shake them loose.

[deanp]

Email sent.

[Joe Bob]

Thanks for the help....