CVA Jukar .44caL percusion pistol kit

[tangerine911S]

A buddy gave me this for christmas and I just got around to putting it together. The pic is just before I started and Im a good ways in right now. Absolutely every piece needs to be modified in some way. The trigger and guard were very rough cast pieces with large pock marks and casting ridges in them. Now they are mirror smooth. Its a lot of fun and I'l let you know how it looks when I'm done. Im a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to stuff like this so I'm taking my time and doing it right. I'm hoping the final fit and finish are up to my standards. And Im such a nice guy, Il let someone come and fire it first. Il pay you in fact

[RPKESQ]

Examine pictures of actual timeperiod pieces so you can mimic the lines and curves of the originals. These were always far more elegant than the reproductions you see. Swamp the barrel and grip to allow proper balance. Most checkering of the period was flat top and fairly course, often with a dimple in the middle of each diamond. And rust blue or brown all the non-brass metal. Let's see it when it is done.

[tangerine911S]

Can anyone recommend a good blueing kit? I have read that Brownell's oxpho-blue is pretty good and I can get it through Cabellas.

[varmint]

you need a pair of them. start challenging people at the homeowners association to duels.



i have an italian 1851 navy colt. black powder is fun. and the gun is surprisingly accurate.

[id10t]

Don't blue it - just get a can of "BBQ black" paint. Looks like parkerizing...

[RPKESQ]

Originally Posted by tangerine911S

Can anyone recommend a good blueing kit? I have read that Brownell's oxpho-blue is pretty good and I can get it through Cabellas.

Your question seems to indicate a desire for a quick and dirty type of metal finishing. That will never look good.

The best blueing is rust blueing. Brownell's can get you going on that.

[3.2 CAB]

The rust or the plum would look somewhat, period correct.

[tangerine911S]

I'm looking for a somewhat period correct look so I dont know about the BBQ black idea. Any opinions on this Brownell's rust blueing product?
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=22820&s=48994

On a side note, once the barrel and lock are installed, the hammer will not strike the percussion cap nipple squarely. It is quite far off and barely makes contact. The nipple screws in to the barrel and is predrilled and tapped. It doesnt look like I will be able to bend the nipple either. Neither the barrel or lock can be adjusted without it looking pretty bad. Any suggestions? I could snap a pic if it helps.

[John Rogers]

There is a browning type of finish that I used on my Hawken kit and it looks great. It's made by the B&C folks and works like blueing but is brown.

[on2wheels52]

Assembly of spanish pistol require great peace of mind.
Jim

[RPKESQ]

Originally Posted by tangerine911S

I'm looking for a somewhat period correct look so I dont know about the BBQ black idea. Any opinions on this Brownell's rust blueing product?
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=22820&s=48994

On a side note, once the barrel and lock are installed, the hammer will not strike the percussion cap nipple squarely. It is quite far off and barely makes contact. The nipple screws in to the barrel and is predrilled and tapped. It doesnt look like I will be able to bend the nipple either. Neither the barrel or lock can be adjusted without it looking pretty bad. Any suggestions? I could snap a pic if it helps.

Brownell's rust blueing works fine.

For your alignment problem you have several options depending on skill level and degree of misalignment.

You could build a new hammer.

You could cut and weld existing hammer to cure misalignment.

Change inletting for lock to correct alignment.

Post some pictures for my choice.

[tangerine911S]

Heres a picture of the problem:

[Rot 911]

I assume the hammer is soft steel. I would heat up the hammer area I have the red arrow pointing at with an aceyteline torch until it glows red and then take some pliers and move it. This of course will require you to remove the hammer from the wood stock!

[RPKESQ]

Originally Posted by tangerine911S

Heres a picture of the problem:

You have two issues. Inletted depth and hammer shape.


The action is not inleted deep enough and the barrel is not inletted back far enougth. The lock plate and the breech plug should fit tight together, no gap. Inlet the barrel/breech plug further back towards the pistol butt and increase the depth of the lock plate inletting. Also the wood above the lock plate is too high (too much wood) this should be lowered to the point of not touching the hammer at any point during it's travel.

The hammer is too flat (poor copy of an original) which can be heated and bent towards the nipple centerline. Don't forget to reharden the hammer after this adjustment.

Do the inletting first and use the hammer bending as a final adjustment only.

[marcello]

do you still have the instuctions for this gun? i have one and need a copy. thanks