If you've ever worked up loads with any seriousness, you will have noticed that the first round out of a clean bore (rifle) will have a lower velocity almost every time. This usually will affect the point of impact. The same will happen, to a lesser extent in pistols. In timed events at 7 - 12 yards this won't matter much. In long range hunting rifles it will.

Stainless revolver - keep shooting ... no cleaning required. ;)

George

I'm cleaning my father's 9mm Sig tonight. I use Hoppe's #9and a boresnake. Takes about 5 minutes and the gun is spotless when I'm done...

For my Walther P22: Boresnake, hoppes, toothbrush, MAF sensor cleaner (safe on plastic), Remington dry lube.

Glock. Shoot, wipe off the outside with a dry rag if I think about it and back in the home fast grab. Jacketed rounds only.

Colts, Hopps #9 old steel rod and cotton patches. If non jacketed rounds then a stroke or two with a brass brush.

Never worried to much about the cleaning rod I don't tend to drag it on the barrel with pistols.

I use a heavy weight synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1) for lubing some of the moving parts.

Or, there is always this method:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1290647981.jpg

I cleaned 14 pistols yesterday.... They were already clean, just dusty from sitting in the safe.

Otis kits for me. I like the soft and flex rods for both handgun and rifle. Pricey stuff but best chamber to muzzle cleaning system I have used.

I use an Otis kit too, but for most of my gun cleaning, I stick to the Hoppe's Bore Snake and Hoppe's #9, followed by a synthetic grease on the slides and CLP on moving parts. I keep all of my handguns in pistol rugs, in my safe (with a dehumidifier).