Wiring Switch In Appliance - Need Relay?
 

When adding a switch into a countertop appliance, is it better practice to include a relay?

I have a Cuisinart food processor from the 1970s. 6 amp, 120 v, 3/4 HP. These old Cuisinarts did not have a switch! Rotating the bowl lid to fully closed/latched automatically turns the motor on. Makes pulsing a PITA.

I have bought a SPST switch that is momentary ON - OFF - ON, rated for 20 amp 120 v. My plan is to mount this switch in the case and wire it in series with the motor.

Now I'm wondering if I should use a relay too. May be moot if I can't find a 120 v relay that will fit in the case, but is it a good idea, in principle?

Also, does it matter if I wire it in series with the positive lead to the motor or the negative lead? I didn't get a DPDT switch.

I don't have any 10 gauge wire. Aggravating to spend $30 for two rolls when I only need a few inches. Now looking for something to cannibalize from.

This switch

SPDT Toggle Switch Momentary ON - Off - ON 20A - VETCO.NET

Wire the NO (normal open) contacts of the switch in series to the power wire going to the motor. Then when the bowl lid is rotated, you'll have to operate the switch to provide power to the motor. No relay needed.

No relay. + 1 to above. Food processors are a dime a dozen on the flea and at garage sales. I sold 2 with about 15 attachments between them for 20 bucks. They had pulse.

Thanks, M & M.

I like this one because it is old and sturdy. Heavy steel case, no plastic except the Lexan bowl (which I have fixed after my screw-up), the micro-switch inside, and the disc stems. Made in France by Robot Coupe around 1975, as were all the "CFP" models. Downside is, the discs are hard to find at a reasonable price. $45 per at the few places that carry them. I just bought a second identical processor on eBay just because it came with lots of discs. When Cuisinart started sourcing from Japan (the "DLC" models), they changed the bowl height and shaft dimension so the DLC bowls and discs, which are plentiful and cheap, do not fit the CFP processors. I'm going to pick up a used DLC and see if I can make a Franken-processor. Yeah, new Cuisinarts are $100 at Costco but they are made in China.

China, Japan, Mexico, I don't care. We've owned 2 new in 40 years. Good enough for me.

I would, however, buy a commercial Robot coupe center fill, open top model if I had an extra grand.

Yeah, I was originally looking for a Robot Coupe R2 but $1,200 new and at $600 used (and probably pretty heavily used) - hard to justify - and too big for my kitchen. I like the ability to direct the processed food into a separate workbowl. The R100 is cheaper and smaller, but only 3/4 HP and doesn't take the range of attachments.

That is a single pole double throw switch. I would do it something like this.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1290534894.jpg

A 20 amp switch should handle the inductive load of the motor

Thanks, Rick. My mistake.