find the 73 parts here...

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I have a model 62 I bought for my dad for Father's Day when I was 10 yrs. old for $75. And yes, the antique store let me walk out the door with it and I carried it on my shoulder a few blocks to where my mom was working at the time. Imagine that now. I've seen them going for $800ish in the condition mine is in, which is not as nice as yours. They are great plinkers.

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Here is a W H Hamilton SXS that was reblued about 40yrs ago.


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Any idea what an old varmit rifle may be worth. It says Flaig's on the barrel and action made in Belgium. Its a 243 with a heavy barrel. The blueing is turning on the barrel due to age.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1293815066.jpg

Thanks. Now do be stupid and try and shoot that. Strictly a wall hanger with those damascus barrels. I love the lines of it. Was the reblue on the other one a slow rust blue? Looks pretty glossy for rust blue, but a very nice gun. The remington should be done black and white on the barrels. I can do them or I can send you the name of a pro out your way. You have some very nice guns there. I know nothing about the .243, but it too is very nice. Looks like a richards micro fit stock. That alone is worth a couple hundred bucks.

These are wall hangers for sure, the Remington is still tight and has good barrels after all these years though. My dad had a couple of guns reblued back in the late 60's and this was one of them. It is still very black and shiny. Ive had these for 30yrs, my dad had a cabinet made for me when I got out of school and moved away. It held 28 guns and I had 3, so he gave me a bunch of his old junk . Ive got some old Fox, Lefever, and Ithica SXS that have seen there better days.

Now dad has some nice spoon's.

The prices I quoted are pretty good..the 62 is very clean say maybe 98% and that kicks it a bit to say...right around the north side of a G...

The Hamilition unfortunatley is probably worth less than the Remington SXS..

The custom BA is very nice but one never gets their money out of those. Unless you are the person who buys them for nothing. I have heard of the name Flaigs before but know nothing other than the name. Nice stock, decent scope...$500 plus or minus..I personally don't care much for the Monte Carlo style stocks..it tends to date it to the 50's and 60's.

There are exceptions to the Custom BA rule and those are primarily the custom American makers from the 20's, 30's and 40's..such as Griffin Howe, AO Nidener, Robert Owen, Hoffman Arms...and even Segleys are coming up in value.

Also if you have a Guild Makers gun they can be very pricey...but I still question if you can get your dinero out of em...unless you wait 5 to 10 years.

So there ya have it..

Now depending upon what Grade and gauge these are they can be quite valuable even though they have seen better days.

Thanks, I know the Hamilton is not worth much, but it is pretty. I wouldn't sell it anyway, it has sentimental value. I'm not sure how old the 243 is, Ive had it 30 yrs and it looked about the same when I got it. The blueing was turning back then.

So around a grand for the 62.
What about the 73? $1000-$1500
Remington? $500
243? $500

Would these be top dollar prices for these? Or what I should expect?

The Lefever is an Nitro Special in 16 guage. I have used this from time to time. The others are not much, busted stock's, loose, damascus barrels, or just junk.

Yeah more or less...

Best way for U to sell em is for U to put them up on Gunbroker..you don't need an FFl for the 73 or the Remington..they are pre 1898 and are antiques ..the BATF doesn't even consider them to be firearms...the 62 can be listed without an FFL BUT HAS TO BE sent to a C&R FFL holder as it is more than 50 years old or to an FFL via Fed Ex to stay legal. CA has special requirements, there no matter what the 62 has to be sent to a FFl.

Here is why...you put a begining price on the spoon for what you think it is worth..if you make a mistake on the low side...the buyers will take care of that for you through their bidding on the item. things do seem to find their level...

No reserve, no buy it now, just you price..and ifit doesn't sell after say 6 weeks you drop it a bit..until you find the level where it will be bid upon. It doesn't cost anymore to keep relisting the item after the initial listing cost.

OUWWW Damacus barrels I do avoid those ....if they are high grade guns (engraved etc) they might be worth restoring..otherwise...parts maybe???

Amen.

contact me before you toss em. i'm always looking for parts guns.

RPKEsq. has brought up that Europeans shoot old shotguns regularly. They have them 'proofed' first. Which I think is measuring wall thickness minutely as well as closely inspecting for any signs of pitting or weakness. He also pointed out that Americans don't proof, they just construct thicker, heavier, originally. Tabs or one of you other guys should add 'proofing' of American guns to European standards to your skill set, along with matching powders and loads to guns. You would get to look over quite a few guns I'll bet, and get paid something every time. BATF isn't interested in these old things, at the moment. Europeans aren't very interested in our old shotguns, either. At the moment.

I'll see if I can find them. I thought about taking them to one of the gun buy back programs that have come up in the past. I havn't heard of any lately. I know I have an old ithica and a Fox Sterlingworth that may have some parts worth something.

How much trouble is it to mail?

Old and new. When I was based in Germany we bought weapons through the military rod and gun club. Several of the guys kept them for a year or two then sold them "on the economy" or to the public.

The Germans would take a nearly new Smith or Colt pistol or rifle and sent it to be proofed. They loaded them up with 1.5 the normal powder charge then fired it. If it did not blow up then they took their metal stamps and plastered it with proof marks. Then and only then was it legal to shoot by the German public.

PM me and I will send my FFL copy. just send to the address on the paper. USPS is fine for parts guns.

Proofing isn't so simple as you think.

To proof a gun means essentially three separate operations.

1) measure all bores, chambers and barrel thicknesss to industry standards, record them exactly. If they do not meet the standards they fail right there.

2) make up a "blue pill", a load that is 1.5 to 2.0 times over the requested or stated load for the gun. It is not just more powder, it is also more projectile. Fire it. If there is any deformity visible to the eye or hand it fails.

3) measure all bores, chambers, and barrel thickness again, if there has been any increase in the pre proof measurement, the gun fails.

After passing all that it just a simple thing to stamp it to indicate the proof level and load, and that the testing organization accepts all liability for the soundness of the weapon. That is what Government Proof Houses do.