How to question... Using Marine Grade Varnish
 

Hi All.

I've stripped and re varnished my front door. So far I have one coat on the inside and two on the outside.
(No sanding between coats. First coat thinned with turps following instructions so that it soaks into the bare timber)

I'm using a good quality marine grade varnish. >>> My question.

How do you sand between coats?

This may sounds like a stupid question but the manufacturers always recommend sanding between coats...
And I've never been able to sand enamel/oil based paints successfully.
I want to put one more coat on the outside and inside of the door.

So how do you do it? Is the secret the drying time?

The manufacture recommends 24 hours between coats but the varnish is never hard enough after 24 hours.

Thanks for any input in advance.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295169290.jpg

I usually add a few drops of Japan dryer when ever varnish is use to speed up dry time. Try using a spray bottle with a little water while sanding between coats. I sometimes add a little of soap for lube so the sand paper will not clog. Basically wet sanding. All that's needed is to knock down the surface to smooth or rough it up so the next coat has something to grab on to.

Minimun 24 hours. You may need longer. It will dry faster in the sun. I use bronze wool to just roughen up the surface for the next coat.

I use 0000 steel wool... then clean the surface with a fine bristle brush and tack cloth before the next coat.

Or scotch brite.

Sanding between coats isn't necessary. Varnish sticks to varnish,just fine.
If you do decide to sand, your not really going to sand it. Just rub lightly across the surface with some 220. Always go with the grain pattern.
Your just trying to knock off any surface imperfections.

All good suggestions above, don't know about the soap tho, make sure to rinse well.
I would dry sand with 220 or the bronze wool. Put in the sun to dry.
The more coats the better. since you are at it, just carry on thru 5 coats, the result will last much longer.
It is looking good!

+1 on the steel wool. Blow it off afterward, then tack cloth. You're just trying to remove any imperfections in the varnish. IE... dust, so the next coat doesn't amplify them.

sc_rufctr,

Like tevake said don't stop at 3 on the outside go at least 5 the more the better. The gloss will get richer as the varnish builds. it will also provide a better barrier for protection. Personally I use a synthetic steel wool like a green Scothbrite pad. Real steel wool will leave little bits that if not removed will rust. You won't like that. You need only to scratch the surface to knock the sheen off. Make sure you wipe the surface and tack it well after scuffing.

update...
 

Here I'm sanding for the 4th and final coat. But I may add more.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296007150.jpg

And the final coat... I rehung it after this one. Maybe another coat to come.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296007284.jpg

allways sand ,after that much work you need to use clear alw grip as your last
coat much harder
the varish is just to soft !!!!

Do you mean this stuff?

Awlbrite

Thats it block sand and spray last coat can brush if you have too.
will last for years and years!!!!

Starting to look good sc_rufctr add a few more coats.

Not sure you can use awlbrite over varnish. It may react. You better read carefully to be sure. Awlbrite is good stuff tho.

Looks like you're done already, but I'd recommend Sikkens Cetol instead of varnish.

Most of the GOBs (Good Old Boaters) that I know of are using this product to maintain the brightwork. Holds up better than varnish IMHO.

do it all the time just finish my cap rail doing hand rails next week!
varnish is great as a base but not hard enough for anything that is being used
like a door!!

Thanks guys but the door is as old and it's a cheapo.
I'll probably end up replacing it with a new one if or when I sell my house.

One more coat and that's it... Job done!

But I'll probably use a two pack product next time.
Marine grade Varnish is good but as mentioned above it's soft compared to the polyurethanes. :)

A final wipe down with a tack cloth for the last coat will help remove any dust for that really smooth finnish you deserve.
Nice job, you'll get a smile each time you get home.

Cheers Richard