Table saw - compare these craigslist choices?
 

Table saw time. Anyone have opinions on this

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/tls/2233900225.html

Versus

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/tls/2235150480.html

For making kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, etc? Max thickness will be probably 3/4" ply/Baltic.

Neither are top grade but #1 looks best. You'll apreciate the wide table.
The fence looks better also tho it can't be seen clearly. A good fence is a must as are good blades.

Hey John,
I have a co-worker who is blowing out his garage. He mentioned a table saw with all the goodies for around $50 I believe. (could be $100) It is an older cast iron craftsman. I have its sister - which I bought from him a few years ago. Send me an email or PM if you are interested. Cost to value is spectacular for this.

Larry

If you have the space, get the Jet. The Grizzly gets the job done, but the Jet has some extras and the bigger table. A good table saw is the foundation for quality work working.

It does not appear the Jet includes a blade, so budget for a couple blades. Forrest makes great blades, but they aren't the only good brand. There was a thread here not long ago that discussed saw blades.

Is your shop/garage wired for 220?
jurgen

I too have a Craftsman......tucked away in there somewhere.
Freud carbide blades are the cats ass.

From a period when I had more time than money....kinda like now.:D ......
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298844100.jpg

The Jet owner will include a couple blades, though neither is new nor a plywood blade. I'd need to convert saw to 110v or get 220v to garage, wife wants a 220v circuit added to the basement for her pottery stuff so might be biting that bullet anyway.

His house is full of furniture he's built w/ that Jet saw - beautiful Mission-style stuff in quarter-sawn oak and cherry. I'd call him maybe one step short of a professional, make-a-living-at-it wood worker. A way serious hobbyist, looking to start earning some money.

I'd go with the JET cabinet saw. If the Grizzly was a cabinet model, I'd go with that, but it's not. I have a JET now. I can't tell from the pic, but if it has the xacta-fence, you'll true it once, and never touch it again.

I can't see the link. I usually will take a Jet product over a Grizzly. I have not look at any of their reason stuff, but they sure have come a long way. Usually Jet saws come with a better fence. Are they true cabinet saws or contractor saws with a motor hanging out the back? I started my wood working / cabinet business back in college with a Grizzly contractor saw. I killed that motor in less then 2 years. I end up with a Baldor motor and a new fence. We kept that little saw for another 6-7 years trucking it all over various job site. In your case, a stationary saw would be ideal. How much rood do you have? Get folding out feed rollers attach to the saw and look into an HTC mobile base.

Too bad you are way up in OR. A buddy is selling his almost brand new Delta Uni-saw for 500 bucks(from the 80s, which IMO is a way better product then today's) because he is splitting up with his wife. If I didn't have 3 saws, it would be in my shop now.

The Jet is an older model, I think from 2000 or earlier. It has an enclosed base like a cabinet saw. The motor is inside the base, with a belt drive. I have found some debates at various woodworkery websites about whether this is a "true" cabinet saw, or a hybrid saw, or what - because of where the trunions mount. (I have no idea what that means.)

As for room, I've decided no car will ever park in my 1.5 car garage. It will become a permanent shop. (The car will live under a carport.) eventually, the shop could end up in the basement. But to get the basement suitable for a shop, I need . . . a shop. Not quite, but anyway, the shop will be the garage.

I know they are expensive and looks like you are looking at used, but I'd go SawStop. Up front price is expensive, but not nearly as the bill the comes in from the various doctors that stitch your digits back on. I've seen what happens when an aluminum miter gauge trips the stop mechanism. Damaged blade was sent back to Forrest to be checked, they were able to fix and then resharpen the blade, the miter gauge has a nick, but very minor.

I know it's not the advice you are looking for, but you get it anyway. :) Especially since I see you are looking at putting together a home shop.

I Have to agree with Dave on the Sawstop. I saw it at the woodworking show a few yeas back and its Impresssive.

I get the Jet saw and be done with it. The mounting of the trunions are fine. It will cut miles of lumber for you before its wears itself out. The trick to a fine saw is adjustability and that it stays true. A good fence is your friend. Everyone has an opinion at those crazy web sites. There are some real nut cases out there. Just like here, you can't put a 3.6 motor in an S or the lug nuts are not the correct ones.

When you buy the saw, just make sure the shaft is straight. Take the blade off turn the saw on and stick the tip of a pen on the center of the shaft and feel for any run out. It should be a 5/8" shaft. 10" saw. right?