Experienced mechanics whats wrong with this bearing?
 

I'm replacing the rod bearings in my 2000 Dodge 4.7 pick up.
The bearing on top is the old one being replaced. It has the little tang on it to locate it in the rod but the new (OEM) bearing does not. Is this correct or do I have defective replacements?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299985226.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299985290.jpg

Strange. I've never seen them without the tang.

Is there a lube hole in the other half ? Seems wrong, or at least I wouldn't install it.

The mains have the oil hole in them. I've never seen rod bearings with an oil hole.

I have never had the bottom of a 4.7 apart, only the top half, but I sure would not put it in without some more information. Without that tang, what is going to stop it from spinning?. You say that these are oem mopar bearings that came in mopar boxes?. That is weird. I am heading back up to the shop in the morning, I'll see if I can find any more information for you.

They came from my local Dodge dealer in MoPar boxes. I'll wait to hear from you before I go any further. Thanks Fred

Without that tang, there's nothing to keep that shell properly located when installing the rod bearing caps, and nothing but the normal crush of the bearing shells after the rod cap is torqued down to keep the shells from spinning in their journals. The engine would likely spin that bearing.

Looks like a defective part.

The 4.7's have a history. Your new part is probably an upgrade. I don't know the specifics, but several shops have mentioned to me that they're notorious catastrophes.

The tang is only there to locate the bearing during assembly. Crush is what keeps the bearing in place.

i would never use something like that. find an aftermarket one with a tang.

There's nothing wrong with the bearing. But it can't hurt to get an aftermarket bearing either.

Why did you get the bearing from the Chrysler dealer, and not a Clevite/ACL/etc from a parts supplier? Just wondering.

My local CarQuest said he would have to special order the parts and it would probably take a week to get them. Dodge had them in stock and delivered the next day. The price was the same from either.

Mopar bearings do not have tangs. It's okay.

Some other manufacturers offer the option of with and without.

You could buy Clevite CB1784P or ACL 8B7210A which have tangs.

Zackly.

I assumed that the tang helped keep the bearing in place and from spinning...

I love the 4.7 so much. I ran one up to 150,000 and it was running like new when sold. Current owner has it at 180,000. As long as you do an oil change between 3,000-4,000 miles you'll get them to 250,000-300,000 miles. If oil changes are missed they aren't able to withstand the abuse.

So what do you think went wrong? The heater stopped working a couple months back. I changed the climate control module in the dash and flushed the cooling system including the heater core. Everything was clean, the water flowed clear with no debri. The t-state was replaced and working fine. After changing the climate control module I drove it from work to home twice. About a 17 mile trip each way. Everything was working fine. On the third day I was headed to Rosemond from Van Nuys. It was early evening cold and raining. The heater was working fine. As I drove down the freeway I noticed the temp start to climb. In about a three to four mile period the temp went very high but not into the red. Then it fell quickly below normal and started to diesel. I pulled off the side of the road and called the flat bed. Once I got back to the shop I pulled all the spark plugs and found water in all 8 cylinders. I removed the heads but couldn't find any breach in the head gaskets or cracks in the heads. It's a total mystery what happened.

Water jacket cracked in the intake manifold?

You definitely overheated the engine and had water boil over past the head gaskets...

Now my question is whether you pulled the bleed plug when you did any sort of draining of the cooling system? The bleed plug in on top of the engine and takes an allen wrench and you probably had to use a pipe to make it budge the first time.

The 4.7 has a 100% dry intake - no water no oil and its constructed of a really good composite material.


This engine is actually called the "semi-hemi" - start reading the link below at "Chrysler's New Cammer: Mopar’s first all-new production V8 in 41 years" for information on the engine. It has parts and technology in it that you may not find in a really good Porsche engine even. It really is a marvelous engine so long as oil is changed.

I know the bleed plug you're talking about but I didn't bleed the coolant system from there. I filled it from the cap. Was that my mistake?

Bingo. You let air sit in the heads and lots of air will sit up in there. It is impossible to properly, and I mean impossible to drain any coolant and refill the 4.7 without pulling the bleed plug. The radiator is just slightly lower than the highest point on the engine - when this is the case you need to use the vehicle water pump to bleed the system. That plug should be taken out and the engine started...it will SHOOT all over the place and you shut it off...then you can put a funnel and fill from bleeder with engine off. Start again with the bleeder cracked so it can seep all the air out until you see water coming out. It wouldn't hurt to squeeze the top hose some with the engine at idle, cold and the cap off (obviously do everything with the engine cold but I don't have to tell that to someone rebuilding the bottom end of an engine, sorry!). If you need anything else just holler.

Thanks, not what I wanted to hear but it was driving me crazy why I cooked it in the first place. This truck has been great but I have to admit I'm far more familiar with early Chevy's.

There is not enough emphasis on the warning sticker under the hood. There should be a red plastic clamp-on sign that sits on top of the bleed screw warning what could happen if you don't bleed using the screw.

Project Update
 

The motor is back in and everything has been plugged in, fresh oil with new filter(filled filter before installing it) and the was battery charged. Turned the key and it started almost right away. It took a few seconds to build oil pressure but once it did it quieted right down. Everything sounds looks and feels like it's running right.
I followed the cooling system refill as per Haynes manual and EarlyPorsche' recommendations. With the bleed screw removed there is a constant trickle of little bubbles coming from the coolant. They don't seem to ever end. It's not a very secure feeling knowing what the consequences can be if it's not done properly.