school me on vintage mustangs

[Christien]

Specifically, a 1968. Someone wants to trade one in, and I don't know much about them, so I need the Cliff's notes version. What to look for, what's desirable, what's not, trouble spots, what increases/decreases value.

Thanks!

[pwd72s]

This website should give ya clues...
Ford Mustang - GT - Shelby - Cobra - Classic Mustangs

1968 was the year of the "Bullitt" movie. If the one you are looking at is a fastback, it has the potential of being a Bullitt "replica"...these are very popular.

Actually, just log in to the website above, post in the appropriate section, and you'll find people more up on the oldies than I...

[pwd72s]

Here's the link to the "classic" mustangs for sale from the same website...just like P-cars, the value varies considerably depending on the desirability of the model, and condition-condition-condition.

1964-1973 Mustang - Mustang Classifieds

[RANDY P]

trade in?

Heck you can sell it straight out more than any dealer will pay- unless it's a rusted out dirty roach.

[pwd72s]

Originally Posted by RANDY P

trade in?

Heck you can sell it straight out more than any dealer will pay- unless it's a rusted out dirty roach.

You're probably right...but not everybody wants to deal with the hassles of selling a car...that's why good used cars can be found on dealership lots.

[Christien]

I *am* a dealer. He likely wants to save the taxes on the purchase of the new car. Purchase less trade = value for taxes. So rather than pay taxes on 20k, he'll pay tax on just a few k.

[pwd72s]

Originally Posted by Christien

I *am* a dealer. He likely wants to save the taxes on the purchase of the new car. Purchase less trade = value for taxes. So rather than pay taxes on 20k, he'll pay tax on just a few k.

Ahhh, Canadian taxes come to play...thanks for the insight. Hope the links I provided were of some help.

[Jim Bremner]

Value runs
1st. Fastback
2.nd Convertable
3rd. Coupe.

Trouble places on early Mustangs is the vent area in front of the windsheild. Ask if you can pour water in there. Look for leaking onto the carpet from under the dash.

If the car has been abused there is a chance that the shock towers are cracked. Have a second person push the car side to side while you watch the front shock towers.

If the brake pedal swings side to side about 1/4" or 5mm it's a simple fix. A bushing replacement is in need $2.00 for a bushing 45 minutes or less to do it. If it's a manual Trans car add the same for the clutch pedal.

Oj and this thread is useless with out pics! of said car

Here's my old car

[Eric Coffey]

Originally Posted by pwd72s

Ahhh, Canadian taxes come to play...thanks for the insight.

It works like that here too.

[pavulon]

I own a project 67 coupe. They made a LOT of Mustangs. Fastbacks seem to draw pretty big money...coupes less money but I like them much more. Matching numbers V8 and 4 speed cars seem most desirable. FE (390-428) cars are expensive. All sorts of options/combinations were possible.

Rust in the floors and quarters ate these cars alive. They are simple cars that modify well and there is a fair volume of NOS parts and sheetmetal still available. New from factory tooling sheetmetal is still being made but with a little work and money, NOS seems the way to go. I'm a big fan of paint meters to quickly and reliably tell you what is under a re-spray.

Do you have any specifics and images on the car? That would help!!

[azasadny]

Back in '78-80, I helped a friend restore a convertible 1968 Shelby Cobra GT500KR with a 428CobraJet engine in it. We restored the car to original condition with 10 spoke Shelby wheels, A/C (rare) for a convertible and the 8 track player worked! He sold the car to a guy in Texas for $18k, I believe. The car today would be worth north of $300k if it was kept original. Ford only made 319 of that model and one was crash-tested, so only 318 were sold and I don't know how many are left... The car had a very cool roll bar and the "KR" stood for "King of the Road"...

[911pcars]

It depends. Are you going to drive it or just park it and rub on the paint? If it's the former, make sure it's road worthy; e.g. brakes, working brake lights, adequate cooling capacity, etc. Compared with more recent versions, many early foreign or domestic cars weren't the safest or the best engineered on four wheels.

Sherwood

[Christien]

Thanks all so far. Paul, I'll check those links when I get a minute.

It's a coupe, manual trans. Here's some info from the owner:
All stock 289 v8, clean cosmetically and mechanically, engine runs perfect and has never been touched, has only got 103,000 miles on it.


It would have to sell for 30k to be worthwhile. Remember, that's canadian price, and if stangs are like porsches, factor in a 20% premium.

I'll post pics later. I'm on my iPhone right now.

[Jim Bremner]

It would need to be VERY original and you would need to find the right buyer.

[pwd72s]

Jim, we're thinking USA price structure. Canada may be entirely different because of taxes, etc. $30K sounds high to me, too. Here one could buy a low miles Bullitt for $4-5K less.

[kach22i]

Lift up the rear vinyl or carpet in the trunk. Does the gas tank look like it's about to drop out due to a line of rust all along the edges?

[VincentVega]

My first car was a 67, basically a cosmetic change to 68. Check the front frame rails, floors and cowl vents for rust. Better yet, put a hose on the cowl and pull the floor mats.

[Jim Bremner]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

My first car was a 67, basically a cosmetic change to 68. Check the front frame rails, floors and cowl vents for rust. Better yet, put a hose on the cowl and pull the floor mats.

Yup, + thicker firewall at the pedal mounts, added a extra "torque box" on the driverside, colabable steering coloum, added more safety measures on the inside trim, & shoulder harness mounts and the 289 made way for the 302

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by Jim Bremner

Value runs
1st. Fastback
2.nd Convertable
3rd. Coupe.

Trouble places on early Mustangs is the vent area in front of the windsheild. Ask if you can pour water in there. Look for leaking onto the carpet from under the dash.

I think this is the "cowl" VincentVega talked about. If they all leak from here, then what is the point of checking? Is there a how to install a drain hose tutorial?

My 1966 was so bad that if you opened the fresh air box near the passenger feet water would come gushing out. The carpets were typically wet after a rain.

Once I got caught in a summer thunderstorm passing through Chicago. It rained so hard and for so long that I had an inch of standing water under my feet. My pant leg soaked water up to my thighs, it was horrible.

[Jim Bremner]

Originally Posted by kach22i

I think this is the "cowl" VincentVega talked about. If they all leak from here, then what is the point of checking? Is there a how to install a drain hose tutorial?

My 1966 was so bad that if you opened the fresh air box near the passenger feet water would come gushing out. The carpets were typically wet after a rain.

Once I got caught in a summer thunderstorm passing through Chicago. It rained so hard and for so long that I had an inch of standing water under my feet. My pant leg soaked water up to my thighs, it was horrible.

Yeah, It's the cowl. I was trying to make it as clear as possible so that if there's a term that 911 oweners use for it that they could figure it out.


The best cure is to remve the hood, fenders, drill out the spot welds that hold the sheet metal on. Replace the lower portion of the cowl and rebuild the car. Figure $2k in shop labor.

The next best thing is a plastic ring that you install around the vent. for about $50 and 2 hours of work on your back