Before I take it to the shop....
 

Folks,

I have a 1995 F150 that I am hoping you folks can assist me with...

First...I changed out the heater core a couple of years ago. For awhile now every time I start the car and when I hit the accelerator, it gurgles.....Thoughts?

Second, I seem to be leaking transmission fluid. Not bad at all and I will get it looked at but I am wondering if it is still OK anyway to tow my 18.5 foot Carolina Skiff up to a lake 45 minutes away and go fishing. Again the leak ain't bad at all, just happens every now and again, not constant at all....Thoughts?

Third - any suggestions through experience with any mechanics in Atlanta for work on an older truck?

Thanks

Paulie

Sounds like you need to burp the heater core. I'd say it's got air in the system. The best way to do that, I don't know.

Does your truck have a trans temp gauge? It's probably fine, but it's still potentially a risk. You need to weigh the risks.

PM sent.

Manual or Auto?

I'm not sure about the 5.0/5.8 motors but the coolant system bleeding procedure for the 5.4/4.6 is a royal pain since the core is above the rest of the system, with no release valve.

Auto 5.0. It's weird on the tranny....I put a white board underneath to see what might be oozing. Red colored liquid or awhile...

So up to the Autozone I went, they told me first dump in some tranny sealant stuff after checking the level and yes seeing it was low. Dumped in the sealer stuff...fast forward to a few weeks and got a bit of a leak but then it stopped and the level has been staying same. Will continue to check though it will go to shop most likely.

Burping the heater core....yikes...sounds like a pain in the azz. Sigh....I didn't want to do anything on the weekend anyway right?

Not sure what is in the "stop-leak" (rubber and/or material swelling agent), but running a hydraulic fluid with different specs will eventually cause problems elsewhere. Best to flush and replace with factory-spec fluid ASAP.

As for the heater core: Mabye you can find an in-line bleeder attachment.
Probably not though.
There should be bleeding information online, or in a factory manual.

The hoopity-way would be to put on some heavy gloves with a big drain pan on the passenger flooorboard and crack the return hose while running...until nothing but coolant comes out. Then quickly reconnect.
I'd guess there would be enough pressure to force the air bubble downwards back into the engine and resevoir.

Might not work though. Search engines....no pun intended...are your friend.