scored a table saw today, need advice on cast iron top

[rfuerst911sc]

A few weeks ago I was building my workbench and decided that my Makita table top saw needed to be replaced with something larger. I'm a fan of buying used tools when it comes to expensive items. About a week ago I found a Rockwell model 10 contractors saw on Craigslist. I had a couple of phone conversations with the seller and today had a chance to take a look. Saw is in good shape but it missing some small bits like mitre gage and belt guard. But the fence and saw/motor are in good shape and the guy threw in three carbide tipped blades. I offered $80.00 for the entire package and he accepted. Not a bad deal if I say so myself. The blade arbor has no play and all height/angle adjustments work fine. Now the question about the cast iron top. It has a few small nicks and surface rust in some spots. I assume I can hand sand the top ? Or is there a better way to clean it up ? Once it is clean what is the best way to keep it looking good ? Any other advice from the pro's out there is greatly appreciated.

[sc_rufctr]

I'm not a pro but...

You can clean the cast iron top with some WD40 and fine grade steel wool. Don't over do it. Just enough to clean of the rust and smooth off the surface.
If you over do it you'll "Bare" the iron and this just makes it rust quicker. You can use some mineral turps and FINE emery paper to start with if it's really dirty. Standard wet and dry will just disintegrate.
The nicks??? ... I would leave alone but you can smooth off the edges. A cast iron surface can be re ground by hand to perfection but you need skills to be able to do this.

Do you know an old retired machinist? It's a skill that is sadly disappearing in the modern world.

To preserve the top between uses you could cover it with motor oil and grease proof paper. The same stuff used for baking.
Just clean the top off and coat with motor oil. I use the the same oil I use in my daily... Castrol Magnatech.
Then cut off two or three sheets of grease proof paper and lay on top. (if you don't use the paper then whatever you cover it with will soak up the oil)

Then cover that with either a nice piece of leather or a thick cloth. Something that breaths a little.

[dad911]

WD-40 & a scotch brite(maroon) pad, then wax the top.

[rfuerst911sc]

Thank you sir those are good tips.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by dad911

WD-40 & a scotch brite(maroon) pad, then wax the top.

What type of wax do you use for this ?

[dad911]

I don't think it's critical. I've read Johnson's paste wax Amazon.com: Fine Wood Paste Wax 1lb can: Health & Personal Care but any wax without silicone should be ok.

[johnco]

my cast iron table saw was hauled around upside down in the back of my truck for many years. it spent more weeks in the rain than days put away in my shop. I usually left it outside when I did leave it at home/shop on weekends.. after using some Extend on one of my rusty cars and noticing how well it worked, I tried it on my saw. Extend Rust Converter... not the "male enhancement" pills... all I did was power brush the surface rust off the first time, then gave it a coat or two of Extend rust converter. if it started getting a little rough or rusty after a couple weeks in the weather, I sprayed another coat. Extend does turn the metal dark but it gets a finish like it's been waxed and polished. it's about $5-6 a can and Lowes was the only place I could find it here. even out in the weather most of the time, the finish would last weeks/months before needing a touch up.

[Hugh R]

Yep light oil, fine steel wool and a good wax, whatever you have around.

[gr8fl4porsche]

Mine was rusty so I sanded it with 600 grit until smooth as glass. Then waxed with johnsons paste wax in the yellow can. Been a few months and is holding up great.

[Evans, Marv]

Another possibility is to spray it with Boeshield T-9. I sanded the top of mine, sprayed it with Boeshield, gave it a good wipedown, and it's been fine for months. I also us it on the ban saw table & tons of other things. It's a bit spendy, but I use it for lubrication & corrosion resistance on almost everything. I first found it at West Marine. Haven't seen it anywhere else offhand. My first can lasted several years. I just used it after taking the rust off of some old bare steel inch & 3/4 inch sockets. Seems to do a good job of sealing the metal. Like I said, it has lots of other uses.

[look 171]

We use a honing stone, with oil on our large equip. to knock off nicks because it will stay flat. You will see all the high and low spots when you first use a stone. Mostly, we just use steel wool along with some WD40. Johnson paste wax after. Briwax is a better wax IMO. I have use Boeshield on equip. that we don't use very much like our horizontal boring machine. They still ended up with rust over time. Usage will keep it clean. If not, Just a coat of heavy oil with a cover will keep the most of rust away. it takes too much to clean the heavy oil off if we need to use the tool. We end up not doing that. There is this rust eraser for cast iron that I have. Its feels like a really hard rubber (almost steel like feeling and heft). I have no idea how to get thing anymore. I got it from the International Woodworking show about 10 years ago. They will be at Vegas later this year. I am not sure if we are going yet. If I go, I will try and find out for you. It a great little gadget.

[rfuerst911sc]

Great tips guys thanks a lot !