If you're thinking about an inline circular saw, here's an article in the trade magazine, Tools of the Trade:

Tools Of The Trade Spring 2011

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

Anyone else on this board have a Rockwell circular saw? I purchased this saw brand new in the late seventies (still in high school) when I was working on my album rack. Left it at home and forgot about it until my Mom mentioned a few years ago that I had a saw in the basement. Still in the original box with extra blades. I shipped it to CA and fired it up. Everything works fine. I did notice that the Rockwell company went out of business. or was purchased by Porter-Cable, then came back...

OK, I have to weigh in on this thread and quantify why I would choose one saw over the other. Worm drive saws are heavy duty and traditionally regarded as the work horses in the industry. And when I say industry, I mean people who build houses for a living. But I believe in right tool, right job and worm drives can be overkill for even the most hardcore weekend warriors (I am one of those guys). Worm drives can be a total pain in the ass for most jobs. They are heavy and most are hard on your wrists when maneuvering into position because the handle far from the center of gravity and you have to fight the torque twist on start up. Yes they are durable and that is really the only benefit I could see after I recently went through my own comparison shopping. Do you want to ivest in a saw that is a beast to deal with THE REST OF YOUR LIFE because it is durable? ;)

I just burned up my Skilsaw Classic (non worm drive with non replaceable brushes) This saw was given to me by my step dad new when I was 15 or 16 and lasted 24 years of remodeling and projects of all kinds over the years. These saws can still be had today for $55 bucks. (they are just called 7 1/4 Skilsaw now) Pretty good return on investment I would say.

I am a tool guy so when my saw finally burned up I of course got all excited to go buy a new toy and immediately started pricing worm drive saws but then I started looking at price and then really started thinking about what I wanted in a saw. 1) lightweight (every wield a worm drive all day long? a 77 skilsaw is almost 20lbs! and the length and size make them hard to maneuver up in the rafters or in tight spots) b) accurate angle gauge c) longer cord d) easy access to the depth setting knobs & angle knobs e) strong motor(15+ amps) and e) broad ergonomic handle that spreads the grip load over your hand.

What I settled on was the Rigid 7 1/4 circular saw. It is 11 1/2 pounds! It has surprisingly well thought out feautures like the rest of the Rigid Line. Lighted plug in to let you know that the tool has power and a logo of that tool so you know which tool you are unplugging. The cord is 12' long! Most jobs you can just plug it in and go. The fence to the edge of the blade with typical kerf is exactly 3" not some obscure 3 and 3/16" like my old saw (making calculation a PITA) and the bottom plate/fence edge is die-cast with vertical walls unlike the skil with bent sheet metal...this makes it handy when setting straight edges. You can use almost any material thickness with out the saw binding up against the straightedge or riding up on it.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...affd9e_300.jpg

I could have bought a worm drive but I decided to go with the right tool for my application. Small, powerful, lightweight, accurate...kind of like a Porsche? =) Worm drives are like a NASCAR stock car. One is easier to maneuver in all situations and get the job done while the other is more purpose built for one thing.

I am just completing a 1.5 year shop build and when we were framing it up my step dad (ex-carpenter) had his old worm drive and I had my new Rigid and I can report that I am very happy with the Rigid after using both back to back over the course of the build.

Now if you want a worm drive, I would still consider the options mention above, accurate angle guide, and weight differences etc.

I will of course ammend this post if the saw dies within 24 years...ha ha.


PS- I would NEVER EVER buy a cordless saw. Run away screaming :eek: To me they are gimmicks to get you to commit to brand 'X's batteries. The amps needed over the course of project such as a deck or addition would keep you running back and forth for batteries.


edit- AHHH dog gone it! I should have read the article that 911pcars posted first and saved myself a bunch of typing. I could have just typed, "see 911pcars article". :/ oh well...ha ha

yea my boss buys alot of rigid. He has two cirk saws a sliding miter saw and a drill. I like to dog on him and say theyre crap but theyre pretty good. I dont have anything bad to say about them.

More info:

My mom bought the saw for my dad in 1984.

I took it apart. The brushes are toast. It is model 31510961. It was made by Ryobi.

I cannot find replacement brushes. Sears lists the brushes as NLA. I can't figure out what the Ryobi equivalent is, but I suspect I am SOL.

Try here?

Ryobi Circular Saw Parts : eReplacementParts.com

Looks like a whole motor is $20 or so, not sure if your model is there.

Yeah, I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out what the Ryobi equivalent is. I've done a Google search on every combination of terms I can think of.

They made commercial grade (tool co.) saws back in the 80s. I remember them. they didn't have a DIY line. Same quality as Makitas. All they sell DIY market now. Check your old fashion tool shops. they may still have parts hanging around. Not too many of them were sold.

Work horses they are. I like them although I don't cut much anymore. There's reason the the off set in weight and the handle being in the back of the saw. the weight and off set or balance helps the operator. Gravity does the pushing or pulling through the material. The handle allow the operator to have a bit better or longer reach when he's doing gang cut on the job. A side winder, your typ. 7 1/4 saw will require you to actually push the saw through the cut. With a top handle, it requires more effort then the rear handle saws. If you have to cut 100 2x6, you will be more tired by the end of the day simply because you have to push and guide the saw through out the cut. A worm drive will almost cut itself with a little effort because gravity will do the work for you. A little guidance (with the rear handle, all you have to do is steer the saw through the material) will help you cut straight. The hard part is to have to pick up the beast up for another cut. There are ways to get around that.

Different saws for different job. I have a 6" Porta Cable for finer work like trimming doors and floors. I use the worm drive for almost everything. the trim sits most of the time.

jeff

Wow, can't believe the content and intent of this thread. The OP has to finish a deck, big deal, who really cares? My advice, go buy something. Buy a light weight unit, or, I can't hardly lift one unit. Get 'er done! Some of these anal-retentive posts on this board, and similar responsives get my hair to stand on end. The 911 urban legend, of 5 pages of comments regarding lint on the carpet is true here. Buy some cheap chinese-made saw to finish the deck; doesn't sound like you are a carpenter of any sort, no future projects. Geesh.

Opinons are like azzholes. Everyone has one. :rolleyes:

How's your lint? :)

take that guys man card away! May be slightly overboard but perhaps the most important tool in the shed

The Porsche of circular saws.....never used one, but they are priced like a Porsche. Anyone out there use one in the real world?

Update:

I went to the local AC motor place and they found brushes that would fit...sort of. The brushes would fit in the brass tubes, but didn't have a flat back so wouldn't fit back into the saw.

My wife bought me this for my birthday:

Amazon.com: Makita 5477NB 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Hypoid Saw: Home Improvement

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

It's a very nice saw, much narrower than the old one, which makes it more useful to me. I just used it to cut some 1.5" stock, and it cut like a hot knife through butter. I hope to never own another circular saw again.

I won't get into the which tool is best debate, but I do want to mention storage:

I used to not think about storing my power tools and just set them under a bench in the garage. Not a good idea especially with the drill press in close proximity. Sure enough metal shavings were collected by the magnetic in the motor of my circular saw which machined deep grooves. Now I keep all power tools in a drawer or in their box.

That's a real accurate saw that can attach to a their own guide system. it is suppose to be as accurate as a stationary table saw. It will not last long at a regular construction job site doing the job of a worm drive saw. it is a totally different tool all together. I own their sliding miter saw. It is a shop tool only, no job site use. It is close to 50% more then other similar saws but very accurate and well built. I would buy a Makita or Bosch for a little more then half the price. It can do the very same job. I would not buy again.

You wouldn't need to get another one. That hypoid gear is a robust tool. It took me more then 8 years to kill my last one. That's because a guy throw it off a roof and broke the handle.

Sweet.

I like Makita stuff.

A lot of it is made in the USA, Japan, Europe, South America - not China. Unlike many other brands which are almost all Chinese-made.