Electrical gurus
 

I am converting a medical rehab device to my portable AC for the upcoming west coast trip in my 356. It has a small cooler with a motor in the bottom ice water is circulated through a pad that went on the afflicted surgery area. The controller is cold to coldest.
The power converter at the wall takes power down 13.9v at .9 amps. There are 4 wires coming out of it. Red, black, white, and yellow. All these meet at a Y with the 2 wires coming from the controller. I really don't want to tear apart the Y. Which wires do I splice to make the pump run continuously?

I'm running the water to an old oil cooler off my motorcycle with a fan blowing through the coils. It works great but warms up to much between cycles when the pump is not running.

Any good answers appreciated.

do u have a multimeter to test the wires?

12V convention is black=ground, red=12v, although it's not uncommon to see yellow=12v either. w/o a wiring diagram, your only test is to use a multimeter to figure out what's connected to what.

It was so obvious. Bypassed the entire controller power converter. Went with a cig lighter plug in. I had been using a converter to go dc to ac. The pump was 12v anyway.

Going out on a 100 degree day with the windows rolled up in a black 356. Will soon know the results.

Les - not the same but here in Fl the 356 isn't bad IF you have all the windows open. Mine also had a dealer installed AC unit (Artic Kar) and I still have the vent hoses up front. Get a nice breeze thru them at speed. At lower speeds, I rotate the front windows all the way around so ti forces air onto me.

I just back from a 30 minute test with the windows up 100+ outside. The blower I am using is a squirrel cage and it is aimed directly at the cooler. I need to build a shroud behind it to disperse the air more evenly. As it is the fan/cooler is in a 12x12 styrafoam box. I made it that way to be able to move it around the cab to try and find the best cooling options.