Thinking long term - what rust proofing approach?
 

I bought a 2010 Subaru Legacy. I plan to own it for the long haul.

My 2000 Pathfinder is starting to rust out.

To protect the Subaru, are there types of rust proofing that I should look for or avoid.


I suspect many folks will say....forget that snake-oil!

Educate me please

I have no answers for you but your post is very timely for me as well. I am going down to Atlanta next week to pick up a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited. There is so much rust on the ones around here, so I figured it was worth the time and effort to get one away from the rust belt. I was wondering if there was something I could do as well to stave off the dreaded rust as long as possible.

I say spray it yourself. Wax, Varsol, and transmission fluid. http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/homemade_waxoyl_update/22473\

Princess Auto shutz gun spray applicators work well.

I also had good luck with the Mopar stuff - http://www.moparmagazine.com/2011/jan-feb/stop_rust_from_corroding_your_repairs_and_reputati on.html

Their 'Cavity Wax' is thick and stays where you spray it. And the bottle fits the 'standard shutz gun'.

Rust Check or Krown. I had a 97 Tahoe that I sold last year. I had it sprayed every year. There was slight surface rust on the inner fenders, and where there were scratches.
I power washed the underneath and the floors looked like they were brand new.
My present truck will get sprayed in November.
With our winters it's money well spent.

I like to pour some aircraft tubing rust preventative oil in the bottom of doors, trunk lids etc. It is the consistency of gear lube and it creeps into nooks/crannies then congeals to nearly a waxy type consistency.

Brings back fond memories. I sprayed a waxoyl-type formula into the internals here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/313943-pics-my-suspension-project.html

Making the spray tip out of a bolt was the toughest part. Had to adjust the pattern a couple times.
Somebody sells this, but I couldn't find one.

i've used Krown rustproofing for over 15 years. but the engine bay sures looks a mess cause of all the dirt sticks to the oil spray.

i saw this product advertised in a honda dealership yesterday:

symtech spray... Sym-Tech > Traditional Rust Protection

symtech electric corrosion module... Sym-Tech > Surface Rust Protection

i notice the Krown website includes the following disclaimer, retracting their prior criticsms of the electric corrosion modules:

"Krown has made prior claims concerning the Final Coat Electronic Rust Control Module, all of which are hereby retracted. In particular, Krown has circulated and posted on its website reports entitled "Comparative Testing of Electronic Modules for Rust Protection" dated March 3, 2008, and "Comparative Testing of CM-2000 Modules for Rust Protection", dated March 25, 2008. Krown acknowledges that these claims and the reports were based on faulty testing methodology. There is no basis for Krown to conclude that the Final Coat Module does not work."

i've also used the aircraft product ACF-50

ACF-50 - Pacific Corrosion Products

i like the Krown product cause it's nontacky. it drips on the driveway, but so does my porsche, merkur and kawasaki...:D

for some reason, the oil spray business is huge in canada and virtually nonexistant in the USA...

3M cavity wax all over the undercarriage seals out air and moisture. It's pricier but works.

The electric corrosion modules are only effective in separating a chunk of cash from your wallet. A car isn't a ship or a bridge, plus those systems use a large sacrificial anode.
Krown was most likely harassed with a nuisance lawsuit it didn't want to fight. If you read into that statement you can see that they have dropped the claim that it doesn't work, but they also don't say that it does. Krown doesn't sell a module and if it worked, even a little, you know for sure they would be selling one.

Read this and the comments:
Rust proofing that actually pays off « Carblogger

Black Bear is the trade name. Paralketone is the chemical name if I remember right. It can be brushed or thinned and sprayed and as Tim said dries to a wax-like finish. Can be removed with paint thinner if needed.

Found some!!!

PAR-AL-KETONE from Aircraft Spruce

rust is alive
it needs air [O2] and water just like every other living thing
with no air or water no rust

best coating is zink [ galvanized ] but hard to post production apply
oil or wax is best for touch up or uncoated unpainted areas

Check out Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. The reviews look pretty good, altho it's a bit pricey if not on sale. It will make a huge mess (paint leaking out of any seams)

I was going to try it out, but apparently the enviro nazis won't let spray cans be shipped into Alberta or something. They would sell me the nozzle tho, and it seems to fit on spray cans of tremclad rust paint. That's how I'm treating the inner welds after I finish sealing up a hollow section.

Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle

MOVE. if they salt/deicer the roads you are screwed.

It's worse. Brine.

POR products have always served me well. No affiliation but a happy customer and user.

Just ordered two 5L. cans from here Corrosion Prevention | Waxoyl USA

I have heard about this stuff for years, figured it can't hurt. Anyone ever use Waxoyl before?

I've always been skeptical of oils and waxes because all the ones I'm familiar with eventually dry out, crack and make the problem worse.
I've had good luck by locating areas that hold water and dirt and cleaning them out once a month or so. I have a heated shop though, and I don't know how I'd do it with out that. I take the lower front fender loose and clean out the mud and crap that accumulates there, plus remove the plastic shields in the fender wells and cleaning behind them. When I do see rust, I treat it with rust converter and paint over it.

To expand on what teenerted1 said, do NOT drive any car you care about in the winter. I have a standing rule that has been in effect since I moved to this area of the country (which does use salt in the winter months) that I DO NOT DRIVE the Mercedes or the 911 from the first snowfall until we've gotten 3-4 good, solid, heavy rains in the spring to wash all that crap off the roads completely.

It has worked wonders - not a speck of rust on either. Get a throwaway POS winter beater for the crummy months that you don't care about. Drive the crap out of it and if it dies/rusts out, chuck it and get another for $500. Way cheaper long-term than body repairs or having to replace a vehicle you actually care about.

Another satisfied POR-15 customer here...