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Anyone had to replace a bathtub?

Wife wants to redo the bathroom...we have what's called a Jack and Jill bathroom setup, and ours means that the hall bathroom, and the master bathroom have the tub in between them. There are the sliding shower doors on each side and can get in from either one...

This is a standard in my hood, but wife wants to redo the whole shebang...now I can do the toilets and floors and that stuff, but I think that the new shower basin and shower doors need to be done by a pro. It will be just a shower now..

So assuming I can wrench the old tub out with a couple of sturdy buddies of mine, any guesses as to how much it would be to put the shower basin in along with mounting the new shower doors?

Just looking for an idea...I am guessing somewhere along $2500 - $3000?

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Old 10-13-2011, 10:09 AM
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standard lengths? hell, a shower door can be had for around $600.

i dont get the jack and jill thing. two separate bathrooms share one shower? so you can see into each room? can you make two shower stalls?
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Old 10-13-2011, 10:49 AM
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It's like this below...yeah you can access the tub from both sides. Thing is, this is the way almost all of the bathrooms were done in this hood. Since we have a tub downstairs, we see no reason for it upstairs. P.S. folks, inclusing us, do have curtains that we pull over the doors.

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Old 10-13-2011, 11:37 AM
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The shower basin is easy, I think, you just build it from scratch and put a new flange in. It's layered concrete and barriers depending on your local codes, plenty of information on google on how to do it. The glass I used a contractor to come in and put the European channel-less stuff in using 3/8th glass was about $700 for a large shower.

As far as pulling tubs... I took my sawsall to the one I just removed. Took it out in three pieces myself. Once I got some of it cut out I just used a large pry bar on it.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:05 PM
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kinda cool.

do you have room for two single shower stalls? then each bathroom can have one.

i have never seen that before.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:06 PM
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Didn't we discuss this a few months ago?

Do you have a floorplan of both bathrooms you can post?

If it was mine, I'd try to get a shower in each.
Old 10-13-2011, 03:22 PM
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To take out a cast iron tub, use a sledge hammer. I took one out and replaced it with a shower for about $2,500. Custom frameless glass shower door was about $1,000 of that. Get Trekkor's take on this.
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Last edited by Hugh R; 10-13-2011 at 07:09 PM..
Old 10-13-2011, 03:28 PM
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Hugh is right- cast iron tub's are a bear to move, but can be broken up into easily movible pieces with a sledge hammer.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:42 PM
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I don't know your situation, if you have kids or occasional guests, but I'd turn it into one bad arse bath room, regardless. Ditch the two ****ters, rip out the flooring, cap and move pipes, then dream away. You can always go down stairs to relieve/ clean up during the process. I'd leave one crapper in place as long as possible, and replace as soon as possible.

Surely the sub-flooring is plywood. Nothing is trivial when you know what you have. IE..., pipes. Copper and cast iron is my guess.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:48 PM
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Sledge hammer is the trick and that's what we use. How about a shower enclosure that can be accessed from both sides? This is only 2 glass doors (max door width 26-28") hinged to the wall that shuts onto another piece of fix glass panel. This is cheaper then a whole enclosure. It still will feel very open. A lot more so then what you have now. The shower should be the same width (We push for min 36" min. in width) but only 4' in length. Build a wall and tile or install stone on it. Over on the other side of the wall (looks like you have a standard tub at 5'), have someone build a floor to ceiling cabinet for towels or what not that can be accessed from both side. This way both bath rooms will have it own additional storage cabinet. 1 1/2' deep each should be plenty. Lights, do not forget a light in the shower. A build in bench can be had (no more then 10"-12" max in depth)and your shower should still feel very big and open.

50% of our business is kitchens and baths. We design and build them. Like the others have said, show us some dimensions. We can try ans help you out with this. I am leaving for Rennsport Reunion tomorrow morning. Check back with you sunday.

Last edited by look 171; 10-13-2011 at 09:12 PM..
Old 10-13-2011, 07:15 PM
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Heck, if you are going to redo the whole thing like Mattdavis11 suggested, you can do so much with that bath.
Old 10-13-2011, 07:24 PM
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If you are dead set on keeping the Jack n Jill I would do a floor to ceiling tiled wall on each side but with the entrances offset. Gives privacy and still allows pass thru.

Real qwik n dirty 30 second mock up cause we all know what a picture is worth.






You can do shower heads on both walls.

Even add a bench on one side if space allows.

Gotta be cheaper than glass.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:39 PM
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If you plan on staying there awhile, might as well decide on a structural design you'd both like. Colors and tile will change, if you stay long enough. Get the shower sitting shelf right. The pitch, length, width (where applicable), height, and surface are all crucial. As an example, my arse sits 4 inches away from the wall, sway back, add more to length to the shelf.

I'd stone and grout to preference.
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Last edited by mattdavis11; 10-13-2011 at 08:08 PM..
Old 10-13-2011, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stomachmonkey View Post
If you are dead set on keeping the Jack n Jill I would do a floor to ceiling tiled wall on each side but with the entrances offset. Gives privacy and still allows pass thru.

Real qwik n dirty 30 second mock up cause we all know what a picture is worth.






You can do shower heads on both walls.

Even add a bench on one side if space allows.

Gotta be cheaper than glass.
Nice party shower.

Old 10-14-2011, 03:20 AM
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