Clipless Pedals?
 

I was in the bike shop getting gloves (getting chilly at 5 am now, about 40 F this am, will soon be low-mid 30s and raining).

I saw that SPD clipless pedals are as cheap as $50. But the cheap ones are awfully heavy, even the not so cheap ones seem heavy. The nice light ones are not cheap enough to buy on a whim (I held a Ritchey pedal with Ti body, nice, $200+, and an eggbeater with Ti body and shaft, even nicer, $350!!!).

I wear bike shoes that will take a SPD cleat, but use regular track pedals with loose toe clips, the straps don't exactly nail my feet to the pedals.

Should I try the clipless pedals? What's the difference in pedaling motion, muscles used? I read that with clipless pedals (or tight straps) you pedal in circles, using more butt and calves? Right now I basically just press down, my knee (what are those, quads?) do everything.

Give me an education in pedaling and pedal systems, please.

Clipless yes. No question about it. Don't spend the $$ for light weight until you are getting paid to place. The difference between not clipped vs clipped t is like throwing a bullet vs. shooting one.

Well, you get a Push/Pull power out of them, kinda like a kevlar clutch, no slippage (even with clips you lose a small amount) When Look pedals 1st came out, and I got a pair back in the 80s, I couldn't believe the difference from clips. On a BMX track (I still ride flats) there is a big difference with riders with & without, so much so, that most have switched to it, only old farts like me, bitterly cling to our Bear Traps;)
Yes, you will get a more well rounded leg work out. There are others who can answer this better than me.

I am bias, I have never been a fan of SPDs. I like Look pedals only and have been riding them since they came on the market 20+ years ago. I ride fix cleats without float. don't let the weight get to you. Unless you are racing, a little weight means they can take a beating a little better. I can't and will not ride a (my) bike without pedals (strapped in). I don't ride my bike to the store, nor do I commute on it. I don't even get off to get coffee. Yes, do try clipless pedals. You will like them.

If you set your saddle back a little or sit back on your saddle a little, you will generate more power right out of your quads. If you set up you saddle height correctly, you WILL use your caves in both up and down stroke. They will cramp and hurt like hell. Spin. With clips, you should be spinning your pedals at 90-100rpm. this way, you are not only pushing down. No way you can push down that fast at that revs, so you wil have to pedal smoothly in circles. That means pulling up on the pedals(ever so slightly) without really noticing it.

SPDs, fine but heavy.

Egg beaters, worthless for a road bike, but ok for the mud on mountain bike.

Look pedals, run Forest run, they suck. PIA to get in/out

Speed Plays, my current fave. Setup it a bit funky.

the whole point is not to get out of them so they are locked in nice and tight. I think Look pedals are ridden by more pros then an any others. Looks are sold more then any others I think. You have to get use to them. Worst case, track stand buddy. Over twenty years ago, a buddy and I went out on a 60 mile training ride around LA and did not take our feet out of our pedal once. this was clips and straps and you had to release it. I was the dumb aZZ with double straps. Track stands and more track stands when ever we can.

Everyone certainly has their own preference for pedal brands.
You can get a really cheap pair (like $30) to try out at Performance. (I can't believe I just recommended that craphole)
I like being able to walk in my SPDs.

If you really want to maximize the effect of clipless, invest in a power crank (about $300-400). Your legs will feel like mush after a few miles. You will hate the infernal device and wish to smash it with a 12-pound sledgehammer. You will loathe it. It will anger you. But it WILL make you stronger. A lot stronger.

+1 to the above - get a good/decent mid-range set of clipless and forget about it. I have used Ultegra for years and they're just fine. Reasonably light (there are certainly lighter out there) and durable. Good luck.

I hate cold w/x riding too but it beats no riding. I picked up a Kurt Kinetic Rock n Roll for those mornings it's too crappy to go outside at all, so at least I can get something resembling exercise.

If you already have the shoes that can take an SPD cleat then try an inexpensive pair ... the difference is massive compared to clips and straps.

Even when not too tight they are far easier to use than clips and after a while you really miss then when riding without. I have SPDs on my commuter bike that I ride every day thro central London and I would not like to ride without this security.

The Look type is better if you rarely need to put your foot down as they can be screwed down far more than the SPDs. the main issue is the type of shoe that takes them... a bit more difficult to walk in them, even a short distance.

I still use my original Looks on my period bike...and the period SIDI shoes!....for training... however the shoes in particular are now much more 'efficient' and comfortable....

I have always ridden on Time clipless pedals and liked them as they allowed enough movement for my joints and were comfortable and easy to engage\disengage.

It is a preference thing, ask 10 people, get 10 different answers.

Yasin

On my mountain bike, which I dusted off and hit the trails for the first time in many years this weekend, i have always used Time's.

I have used a pair of Shimano 737 pedals for what seems like forever. Great pedals but a bit on the heavy side and bad in mud. Otherwise bomb proof.
I have Speedplays on the road bike and they were a little different to start but allow older knees to move around a bit more during the pedal stroke (float).
Have a look at some half decent pedals and try em out!

Have SPD's on mtn and road bike, much better than toe clips.

My .02 cents
 

Road = Speedplay
Mountain = Azonic Pooky

John, I recommend double sided Ritcheys. (mtn pedals) The learning curve is short. It's nice to be able to clip in instantly and not have to flip the pedal. Just stomp!

The guys that said weight is no issue are absolutely right. There is no reason to have ti spindles on your donkey. (You and I have similar commutes, at similar times, on similar bikes, in identical conditions)

Also, all Ritchey pedals and Ritchey lookalikes (Nashbar, performance) are made by Wellgo, so unless name recognition is of any value to you, save money and get the off brand. In fact, I think Wellgo sells a Ritchey copy under their own name.

(And replacement cleats are available on Amazon. Just got a fresh pair, think I paid 12 bucks.)

I also use Time pedals. But I used Time ATAC mountain bike pedals on my road bike with Mountain bike shoes. I may lose a little doing this, but I can walk around in the shoes. Several of the "Tour de Taco" crowd do this. This can be really important on a commuter bike.

The cheap ones are heavy, all aluminum. But there are much lighter versions.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319634782.jpg

The shoes used are similar to the SPD shoes, with a recessed area for the cleat. The cheap aluminum version is around $65. The Carbon ones goes for over $200. The above composite unit is $159.

i have been happy with my SPDs but i did try and return the performance version and paid a bit extra for the shimano ones. they just seem to be easier and smoother to get in and out of. i have a half SPD and half regular pedal for the mountain bike. Sure they are heavier but since i don't own a $5K all carbon road bike and have stuff like a rack and paniers on the back it really doesn't make that much difference to me. as others have stated, its night and day with clipless vs the regular pedals regardless if you have the cage or not.

You will really notice the difference when you ride without them. It's hard to keep your feet on the pedals on the up strokes.

JMO, I use Ultegra clipless on my road bike but only for long fast rides w/ a group, for everyday/training on a hybrid I used platform pedals and sneakers, it seems to work out fine and if I end up having to walk, the sneakers are a huge improvement over barefoot.

i have Specialized SPD knock-offs. i think

i love em, altho they are getting squeaky. i will clean them and lube them..if they dont shutup, i am buying new ones. you wont feel the weight, so unless you are racing, get average ones.

bonus. every spin class that i have seen uses SPD..so you could use your shoes.

my feet ache in cages.

Bill,

Consider the Time pedals. The bike shoes end up being like sneakers.

I use SPD's for long commutes and when I want to make a lot of on the bike off the bike fast errands. The shoes are pretty walk -able.
Look Keo Carbon on the road bike -- 25 miles or more rides. Feet hardly ever touch the ground on those rides.
Then I still have toe clips if I need some decent shoes at my destination. (Pedals are one of the reasons I have 7 bikes! )
Lately though I use spd's and bring a pair of shoes, works well and I can still walk a bit in the spd's.

As far as clip-less pedals go you will just be much more efficient with them. In P-car terms: YOU WILL GAIN HP!

BTW -- nice to see how many great Pelicanites also seriously ride bicycles.

not to hijack but:

any tips on cleaning a helmet? mine is flat out getting funky. i hosed it down.

thinking of repeated dunkings in a bucket of water with laundry detergent. no good?

Vash, try dunking it in some sport wash

Vash,

Your feet should not ache in the cage. If you have a cleat, your toe or the tip of your shoe should not touch the cage at all. the buckle should ride just above the side of feet not right on it. the leather strap should be there. That's where all the pain and ache comes from. Just for your info.

Gyms use SPDs (spuds) on the bikes. I've got a second pair of shoes for the gym.

I use Time ATAC on all the bikes (road, 'cross, and mountain). Time does make a double sided pedal that is an ATAC on one side and a platform on the other. The Time cleats are very forgiving for mud, other debris, etc. They offer good motion range for my knees. They are easier to learn to clip in/out.

For the "get out" release, you can twist your foot either heel to the outside, or heel to the inside. This is an important point when you are learning as the natural action when you are falling (or think you are) is to point your toe in the direction of your fall (so the heel moves to the inside). Some cleats do not release at all, or only with great difficulty.

The shoes are flat for walking or those oh-so-fun drag-the-bike through the wilds moments!

Helmets - the pads are usually held in with velcro. Take them out and wash them in the sink, dry in direct sunlight. Stink be gone.

angela

Before washing try soaking pads in a bowl of water+vinegar for a couple hours. If the pads don't come out easy then the entire helmet goes in. Then wash. That said I sweat like whore in church but my helmet does not stink. After your rides try hanging the helmet in an open space to dry (if you're not already doing that). I wear those strange toe shoes (Vibram Five Fingers) and I soak them as above to keep the smell at bay. Works really well.

Bought clips last year, tried em a few times, and the bear traps went back on
I just don't like em.

I really liked my Dura Ace pedals last year until my knee just quit wanting to work during the MS150 last year. Turns out my right foot is toed out so much that I needed longer pedal spindles. Now I'm running Speedplays with 1/8" longer left and 1/2" longer right spindles. I don't think the Speedplays are as good quality as the Shimanos but they sure solved my knee problem.

Thank you all!

I'm thinking Shimano, Ritchey/Wellgo, Time, or Eggbeaters for the mountain bike. Guess I'll bring my bike and shoes to the shop and do some picking. I go to Universal Cycle, they seem to have a huge selection.

Of the brands I just listed, the Eggbeaters seem the most, err, different.

My right knee does not want to conform to clipless, so I don't use them. Weight isn't much of a factor in a balanced rotating assembly.

A good bike setup and cleat alignment fixes most knee issues. Might be worth checking this out.

Many pedals offer various cleat options - you may need something with a bit more float.

Not on a flat road it ain't, but if you head for the hills or mountains, you bet your ass it's a major factor.

Every gram anywhere on the bike, is a gram you have to lift up the hill or mountain.
It don't matter if it's one big mountain climb of 1000 meters altitude, or you go up and down 20 times the same 50 meter hill.

A friend of mine who is a top level endurance rider takes her helmet into the shower after every ride. A bit of a rinse and all is good!

Replace that stinky lid every couple of years.
When they start to get a personality all of their own, it is about time.

I take my hockey gear to a shop that does repairs on sports equipment once a year to have it "cleaned". They put it in a chamber and spray it with ozone and disinfectant.
It works!

thanks for the tips.

my helmet is 8 months old. but i wear it everyday. and i sweat on climbs so much, i could grow rice. it gets gross.

i am gonna up the ante in the wash department.

vash: shower cap.

Update - decided to try out clipless, picked up a set of Shimano mountain pedals M520 and some cleats. Turns out I need a set of Shimano backing plates to put in my shoes, guess I can't start falling down until I make a trip to the bike store.

But what's interesting to me is the pedal weighs 175 grams each, and my Suntour Superbe Pro track pedal with plastic clips and nylon straps weighs . . . 175 grams. So there is really no weight penalty for clipless. Sure, there are lighter track pedals and the cleats weigh something, but there are lighter clipless pedals too - these M520's are very low-end vs the Suntours that are pretty nice.