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-   -   Kimber question (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/638449-kimber-question.html)

on2wheels52 11-07-2011 02:35 PM

tk, is the serial # under 8000?
Jim

targa911S 11-07-2011 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azasadny (Post 6357616)
Clean the gun properly, lube it up and shoot a bunch, then report back what happened. My 1911's like to be lubed up, especially on the rails. I use Rig grease (Thanks, David!)

RIG is the duct tape of my gun world.

t951 11-07-2011 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by on2wheels52 (Post 6357668)
tk, is the serial # under 8000?
Jim

The serial number is under 1900

azasadny 11-07-2011 04:17 PM

Looks like a nice 1911, I hope you get it squared away. I'm sure you will and you'll be happy with it.

targa911S 11-07-2011 04:35 PM

Ok ,,Kimbers are tight. shoot the hell out of it. Keep it lubed. Try RIG as Art has suggested. Use factory magazines only. Try a lot of different ammunition. Stick with the ones that feed best. Most newer guns are picky about what they shoot. (Don't EVEN get me started about Walthers!) One of my carry guns is a Colt 1911 Govt. issued, no "C" in the serial number, made in 1918. It's old, it's a Colt and it's so loose it eats anything I stick in it. Goes bang every damn time. My other carry is a Colt 1908 hammerless .380.mfg in 1927. Same same. Loose, eats everything, goes bang. I'm not trying to sell Colt's I'm just saying that new guns need to be shot and fussed over a while before they get sweet. Factory mags are the #1 way to go and will prevent most feed problems.

on2wheels52 11-08-2011 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t951 (Post 6357799)
The serial number is under 1900

I'm not a Kimber expert but I think it was made in Yonkers NY rather than Clackamas. You may want to check on some Kimber forums, the thing may have some collector value to Kimber fans.
Jim

dhoward 11-08-2011 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas (Post 6356020)
If it is a stainless steel 1911? Stainless steel binds. So the slide can jam up and oil doesn't help. Try cleaning out the oil and spraying it with a good quality silcon spray then try it at the range. It will appear dry but that doesn't matter, this simple "fix" may cure your problem with minimum of drama.

Huh? Stainless steel binds?
Never saw that in any of my 1911's...
Send it back.

svandamme 11-08-2011 09:51 PM

Basically friction and heat will cause the slide to locally weld itself to the frame, and then tear loose again.. causing damage.
it won't bind if properly lubed.
And modern stainless is better quality then early Stainless 1911 pistols, like the AMT Hardballer, which was the first


"Galling of the stainless steel was a common issue, as lubrication technology at the time of original manufacture of the Hardballers was not suitable enough to prevent it. Galling occurred due to the alloy used, as well as the fact that the same hardness of alloy was used for the frame and the slide. Usually, different alloys and hardening are used to prevent galling. Modern stainless guns are much less susceptible to galling. Galling is a condition whereby excessive friction between high spots results in localized welding with subsequent splitting and a further roughening of rubbing surfaces of one or both of two mating parts. Early stainless steel alloys suffered from this due to the breakdown of lubricants. Galling can be prevented by electrolytic nickel plating of the surface. Typically either electrolytic nickel plating the frame rails or slide rails will take care of the problem in virtually all cases."


More in depth info about galling

Galling - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Mike C 11-09-2011 05:01 PM

It sounds like you are new to the 1911 platform & the problems your having could be the result of that. Judging from the pics, the gun is dry & needs oil. Lack of lube is the number 1 problem I see everyday!

It could cause the FTE (as can limp wristing)another common problem with new 1911 owners. Slide not locking back could be the mags (does it happen with all mags) or it could be as simple as your thumb hitting the slide stop. I would replace the recoil spring with a know spring 17 - 18 lb.,oil the heck out of it & try again.

I own quite a few 1911's & deal with them everyday at work & most problems are usually an easy fix you just need to understand the platform!

t951 11-09-2011 05:20 PM

Mike,

Thanks for the info!

I have been shooting for years, so I hope I a not limp wristing!

I have a collection and they are usually well oiled. I am not sure why it isn't looking oiled and clean, but I can promise you it has been immaculate and had the issues. I will say say that I have always heard that you should not over oil, so it is typically enough to be oiled but not sloppy. I guess it is possible that I have it under oiled.

I haven't mailed it out yet. so I am going to clean it, oil it heavy, change the spring and get a new Kimber mag and go shooting this weekend.

I will let you know how it goes! Thanks for the tips!

t.

enzo1 11-09-2011 06:27 PM

I wouldn't get a new KIMBER mag. I would either change out the spring in the mag u have or I would buy a Combat Wilson...

Bill Douglas 11-09-2011 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enzo1 (Post 6362271)
I wouldn't get a new KIMBER mag. I would either change out the spring in the mag u have or I would buy a Combat Wilson...

I've got five Wilson Combats (mag only - I wish :rolleyes: ) and they all work 100% in my worked over Springfield.

t951 11-10-2011 03:31 AM

Understood....Wilson mag to be ordered!

Rick Lee 11-10-2011 05:14 AM

The best place to buy mags is through Greg Cote. Look him up. Maybe try +P rounds for a while. If you have more than 1000 rds. down the pipe, I think that should be enough to break a gun in and you should not have problems with it. I don't think it's a mag issue, but you can never have too many of those anyway. I don't know if Kimber has always polished their feed ramps, but less than really polished ones can cause trouble for feeding anything but FMJ ball. I used to shoot a lot of unjacketed SWC, which obviously don't do well in anything with less than a really polished feed ramp. And even some of the newer JHP ammo can get hung up there too because the front edge is not well rounded. Did we discuss what kind of ammo is being used when these problems happen?

Mike C 11-10-2011 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t951 (Post 6362158)
Mike,

Thanks for the info!

I have been shooting for years, so I hope I a not limp wristing!

I have a collection and they are usually well oiled. I am not sure why it isn't looking oiled and clean, but I can promise you it has been immaculate and had the issues. I will say say that I have always heard that you should not over oil, so it is typically enough to be oiled but not sloppy. I guess it is possible that I have it under oiled.

I haven't mailed it out yet. so I am going to clean it, oil it heavy, change the spring and get a new Kimber mag and go shooting this weekend.

I will let you know how it goes! Thanks for the tips!

t.


T: The gun looked exceptionally clean in the pics thats why it looked "dry" to me! No offense intended on the "limp wrist" comment but I have seen it before with experienced shooters new to the 1911. Especially after 100+ rounds or so.

It may in fact not be the problem I was just throwing it out there from experience. I tend to have a high grip & on 1 gun I have, my thumb was always hitting the slidestop. When I changed my grip,the problem went away.

It took a while to figure out since I had no problems with any of my others. I'm sure you will get it straightened out good luck!!

enzo1 11-10-2011 05:41 PM

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Jh9JhCyFFxA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

on2wheels52 11-10-2011 05:59 PM

enzo
I wouldn't have considered holding a pistol in such a manner. The video may not prove anything re the various pistols but it certainly provides food for thought.
Jim

rsNINESOOPER 05-01-2012 10:10 AM

I own a Kimber Stainless 1911 full size and experienced the occasional jamming that it sounds like you are experiencing.

The jamming in my gun was at the point of feeding the round into the chamber after firing. The round would always hang up on the edge of the chamber with the tip of the bullet up at a 10 degree angle and the shell still in the opening of the mag. This would be a common problem when I tried using the gun with cheap mags and re-loads. Kimber mags and cheaper range ammo like Wolf are no problem at all and I have eliminated jams completely by ditching the cheap mags and use of re-loads. I surmised that the very minor differences in the length of the rounds and the sloppy mags caused my issues. The Kimber is definitely one of the tighter guns I have owned and really responds to being maintained well. It is not a lazy mans gun by any means. The tight tolerances makes the gun very accurate as I can shoot at further yardages and still be reasonably accurate compared to other comparable handguns in .45acp.

rsNINESOOPER 05-01-2012 10:28 AM

Thought I would post a link to this article that makes mention of the same type of jam I was having in my Kimber. It is a write up of a three gun test of the exact same model of Kimber 1911. Seems they stopped having the issue after discontinuing use of two out of the six or so mags being used.

Kimber three-gun test: 6,000 rounds and a surprise or two | American Handgunner | Find Articles


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