Built-Ins
 

Anyone have experience making your own built-in cabinets or buying 'standard' cabinets and installing them?

I want to do my master bedroom: I need a combination of pull out drawers, standing closets etc. I need some low sections (below the windows) and some floor to ceiling cabinets. Sort of like a built in closet, but it's in the bedroom, so I don't want any 'open' sections, everything needs to be behind a door.

I'm thinking maybe Ikea stuff all modified and built in, or maybe building the frames from MDF and buying raised panel doors?

There must be standard cabinets you can buy, I haven't seen much after searching on-line.

This is a start:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320719657.jpg

or:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320719750.jpg

But with matching doors on the open sections...suggestions?

Easy. Do a mix with finished plywood as your dividers and then use molding to clean it all up.

ShakinJoe has it. I know my limits and this is one of them. I hired a carpenter to do this on a bedroom remodel last year. He has skill. I don't. It looks fabulous and wasn't that much.

Larry

You need to find modular cabinets that are at least 24" deep for all of your hanging needs. 26" or 27" deep is better for suits. You can purchase metal hanging bars and then go after drawers where you want them. Usually, they will be 36" high for kitchen cabinets. If you are ok design limitation, then that's the way to go. Other then that, like you said, you gotta built them. It is basically a bunch of boxes with doors and drawers. The trick is get the max usable space out of them and still meet your design requirements. I built my closet right into the my master bath so I do not have to go back into my room to get dress and wake up my angry wife. I will try and post a pic later.

If your doors and drawers are flat panels, you can cut panels to suit and hang them on appropriate euro hinges. If they are some kind if raised panel, it becomes a little more demanding or you are dependent on the supplier of the cabinets to offer the appropriate sized panels to use as doors. That being said, I don't know your level of experience or tooling.... anything is doable. I would concur with a previous poster, to hang many items like suits (wrinkle-free) you require probably a minimum 24" inside dimension (from back of door to cabinet back) and that may not be easy to find "off the rack". You notice how in all your pictures the poles are way forward from center to allow the hanged items to protude from the opening. Good luck

Good thread, I need to do the same thing!

And buy the doors? Or leave it open? I want doors...

Do you have access to a table saw? Can you make simple and square boxes? You can always find someone that will make you doors in your choice of wood. I know a guy in Colorado that will make you the boxes (any size you like) and ship them to you for assembly. We use him when we get crazy busy in our shop. He's not cheap but the work is by far better then most small shops around here. Unlike before, you can buy professional grade (German) hardware off the net. You could not buy the high end stuff unless you were a shop or have a cabinet maker lic.

A while back (like before the stinkin' economy cratered) we had one of those closet companies come out and install custom closet stuff in all our closets. One of the better things we've done to upgrade our old (1927) house. However you do it, I don't think you'll regret having it done.

I have pretty much every tool known to man. Or access to it. I meant to put that in my original post and I forgot to.

I am leaning towards building mdf boxes and buy drawers from Lowes. I will get doors made professionally and then spray paint everything.

By doing it myself I can custom fit it and add baseboard and crown molding to match my house trim.

I have a very good euro-hardware supplier a few miles away.

I think if they are done well (but econimically) they add a lot of resale value.

I think if they are done well (but economically) they add a lot of resale value.

Resurrecting this thread, I'm finally ready to start.

I think I want white interiors, I think stained will b too dark.

Still not sure what material I should use for the boxes.

I plan to make three large 24" deep boxes, then add painted face frames and doors with euro hinges.

Options for the boxes:

- white melamine screwed and doweled

- painted mdf with rabbets and biscuits

- paint grade plywood with biscuits and screws

Comments? I am thinking that for durability and quality I should use the plywood and spray the interiors with enamel.

Something like this...eventually, but the large cabinets are for hangers, drawer units in-between the three tall units.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415729097.jpg

Go with melamine, it can be ordered in different shades of white. I spoke at length with our kitchen cabinet maker about our master closet and he said do not use plywood as it will warp. We got some quotes and then decided to buy a better table saw and just do it ourselves. Total on a 10x14 closet was less than $800 in materials and another grand for the new table saw and sliding compound miter saw (both Dewalt). For the dressers we found some at Ikea and modified them to work, was cheaper than buying all the sliders for the drawers. Lowe's has a nice rabbet jig that comes with screws for under $50. Make sure you wear gloves handling the melamine as it will cut your hands up very easily.
Will take pics tonight if you like, finishing up the molding today.

Yea, please send some pics.

My only hesitation with melamine is the weight of large doors on the face frame. I guess if I put the face frame on with biscuits I should be fine.

MDF for vertical components, plywood for horizontal. Hardwood (or MDF) for trim. Use high quality primer/sealer- especially on the MDF. Might require more than 1 coat to provide for a smooth surface for your final paint selection.

Not worth building them, buy 'box' cabinets. HD & Lowes have unpainted if you want to go cheap, look for sales and buy gift cards at a discount. Or price at local building supply.

cheap, imported plywood will warp. I am a big fan of melamine (I have in my own house) but I built a ton of plywood cabinets out of my shop. Its the grade of plywood. Once the plywood is cut, they should supported and it will not warp at all even it the sides are full length. Most "cabinet makers" I come across don't like plywood because they have to finish them. B face 3/4" plywood (prefinish if the spec calls for them) is my friend. Sure they are 70 bucks a piece but, hey, they are good. Prefinish B face maple is over $ 100 per sheet