ARRRRGGGHHHH--GM front hub/bearing removal

[Oh Haha]

Frikkin' !#@$@#@%@% wheel hub assembly!!!

I've been tracing a mild whump-whump in the front of our Suquinox the past few weeks. I rotated the tires with no change. I don't usually drive it but tonight I did and it has gotten worse.

I picked up a new assembly tonight figuring an hour to do the job. I;ve done them before so I know the steps to take.

The old hub will not budge from the housing. The retaining bolts are out and there is nothing keeping it from coming out. I used Blaster PB and smacked it with a BFH but it is NOT moving.

I tried a hub puller but it just pushes the stub axle back until the lock nut prevents any further movement.

Any thoughts?

[sc_rufctr]

You may have to take the whole assembly out of the car and use a press to take everything apart.
Your old hub is probably rusted in place.

I had to do exactly that with my VW Golf recently with the axles and everything. Even then it took some time to get thing apart.
When I set it up in the press I soaked in WD40... Lots and lots.... and lots.

[Oh Haha]

Thanks sc.

I just did a generic search on the web and it seems stuck hubs are the norm for these vehicles.

According to what I've read, a press or a heavy hand with a hammer is about the only ways to go.

I'm quitting for the night.

Man, I just hate when a simple job turns into a hassle.

[Mrmerlin]

get a Mapp gas torch and heat the surrounding area then see if it budge with a hammer

[john70t]

Mapp gas may do it. If not, use acetylene. You can borrow mine and tap set(in A2).
Heat does wonders with rust.

Heat the outer piece in a circular motion next to any overlap to expand the outer circle part and break the rust bond. I sometimes spray Wd-40 while it's hot to aid penetration, but that's not the safest way.

Try lightly hammering first. A BFH can sometimes kink parts sideways and then it's really stuck, or strip threads when it breaks free.

[SeanPizzle]

And whatever you do, put antisieze on it before reassembly

[fred cook]

a slide hammer? That would attach to the wheel studs and let you pull from the front/outside while pushing against the housing with your feet.

[lm6y]

I've found that a LARGE flat bladed screw driver usually does it. Haven't had an Equinox apart, but most hub assemblies have "ears" where the mounting bolts thread through. Use the screwdriver as a drift, and a pretty big hammer to rotate the unit in it's bore. The one we use is about 2 1/2 feet long, and lets you get the handle end away from the car, so you can really get a good hit on it with a hammer. You can usually get them to move that way. Then just continue to rotate it back and forth to break the rust free, then smack it out with the hammer. If the unit has a ABS speed sensor that's removable, be sure to take it out first. Also, you can thread the bolts back in, and try to tap on the bolt heads to move it out of the knuckle. They are pretty heavy bolts, and can take a good smack, just be sure not to damage the bolt head enough that you can't get a socket, or wrench on it. Easy to do when you get frustrated. Be sure to coat it all in antisieze, even the shank of the mounting bolts. I've seen them rust in the knuckle too.

[boosted 89]

Unfortunately a press will be the only way to get that sucker out. Sometimes WD-40 helps but the corrosion in between the hub and spindle hold them in really good. I've even seen one of our techs actually break the spindle trying to get one of those bearings out. May I suggest cleaning out the spindle bore once it's out and give it a splash of rust and corrosion inhibitor paint and possibly some anti seize for next time.

[Oh Haha]

im6y-thanks, that sounds like a good plan for next time.


It's done finally.

I ended up taking the spindle off to better acces to the bearing hub, added some MAPP as suggested, BlasterPB'd liberally directly down onto the seating area, added some good smacks with a mallet and it finally came out. The corrosion inside the mounting surface was just silly. It looked like salt and rust combined to make some super type glue. I cleaned it up, installed the new hub w anti-seize, and put everything back together.

The noise is gone and all is well.


I scribed the strut to spindle mounting points so the alignment would be close. The steering wheel is off center just a hair but the truck drives straight. I'll take it in another day to get that squared away.

Thanks everyone again for your assistance and support.

What a PIA this was but the feeling of accomplishment is rewarding.

[azasadny]

Wayne,
"Daily drivers" are so much harder for me to wrench on because of the "rust factor" we have here in MI. Whenever I try to repair something on one of our daily drivers, it always turns into a mess... Helga was much easier to work on because of the lack of rust and I always put Wuerth anti-seize (copper-based paste) on EVERY bolt whenever I reassembled anything so it would be easier the next time. Many, if not most of the fasteners on our daily drivers were installed and tightened with an impact wrench and that makes life tough unless you don't have an impact wrench to remove same. Good luck!!

[Oh Haha]

Originally Posted by azasadny

Wayne,
"Daily drivers" are so much harder for me to wrench on because of the "rust factor" we have here in MI. Whenever I try to repair something on one of our daily drivers, it always turns into a mess... Helga was much easier to work on because of the lack of rust and I always put Wuerth anti-seize (copper-based paste) on EVERY bolt whenever I reassembled anything so it would be easier the next time. Many, if not most of the fasteners on our daily drivers were installed and tightened with an impact wrench and that makes life tough unless you don't have an impact wrench to remove same. Good luck!!

You are right, Art.

The good thing? Wifey is happy that her truck no longer makes that funny noise.

Total cost was about $150.


Now, on to prepping the 911 for the winter hibernation after I clean the mess from working on the Suquinox.