Engine oil SE SF obsolete so what to use in my ATV?
 

Some of you guys have been paying more attention than me so what is a good replacement for API S SF spec? Lastyim I was in a pinch and got some SM spec (non energy conservation type), but I want to know what the should replace SE or SF for my Yamaha Grizzly. I know I can use Yamalube but what's available from the FLAPS?

Valvoline 4-stroke 10w-40 and 20w-50 will be what you need. You can get the synthetic variant as well but the regular stuff is good. Its going to be available at pretty much every single part store that has a decent oil isle or a motorcycle section.

Great! I need 5W30 since I use the ATV for plowing. Do they make 5W30? I'll stop in at the FLAPS tomorrow.

I use Shell Rotella 6T full synthetic 5W40 in the blue jug in my Yamaha 450 Kodiak. :cool:
No problems and it should be good for a whole year unless you do a lot of swamp riding.
You want an oil with no friction modifiers.

Souk, FWIW I have owned, rode and raced minibikes/3-wheelers/ATV's/dirt bikes/streetbikes my entire life and I have always simply used 10W40 regular oil off the shelf of autoparts stores in the crankcases/gearboxs of ALL of them. I have NEVER had an oil related failure of any kind in any of them.

My latest "favorite" non synthetic oil is Rotella 15w40 (I have been putting it in my 911 and my tractors), but I would not be worried in the least to run any of my bikes/atv's with cheap no name gas station 10w40.

5W30. Just make sure what ever you get is "wet clutch certified."

The only oil that will be "wet clutch certified" will be manufacturers oil (Yamalube, etc) which nothing but regular oil blended to spec. These companies don't refine their own oils, in short it's part of the dealer revenue stream.
I've been using the oil I posted, in a Yamaha ATV, with no issues.

The wet clutch issue is the reason I posted "none energy conservation" oil. I read a while ago that the oil with friction modifier has "energy conservation" stated in the API emblem in addition to the spec indicator. They are hard to find...but I suppose any motorcycle "for wet clutch" oil will work. I just hate having to pay $5.00 a quart for the stuff.

I'm hesitant to use synthetic fearing leakage/seepage. I've gone from Dino to syn oil on several vehicles and they always got worse. So I need dino oil in 5w30 with no friction modifier for the wet clutch....

You should be able to get Rotella in 5w40 at Walmart.

So you guys are certain Rotella has no friction modifier?

From reading the datasheet, http://www.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-11.pdf

it states it Jaso MA certification which from what I read is wet clutch ok. Jaso MB is not wet clutch friendly.

What Vincent said. Just look for JASO MA certification on the bottle. All oils have a JASO rating which can normally be found on the back of the bottle within a circle right near where it shows the weight.

I think all diesel oil has no FM's, I researched it 3+ years ago so I can't remember any other oils, I know many guys use the Rottilla T both dino and synthetic.
Here they want $10+/liter (quart) for the dealer oil:rolleyes:

I have an '07 Kodiak and using full synthetic, not even a weep, it's dry as a bone .

Great info guys. I knew you'd come through!

Mark, my Grizzly was bought used and its probably always seen dino oil. I just us it on the farm so I don't think I need synthetic even if it wont leak. It is dry now so I won't risk it. I use syn oil when I feel it won't lead to seal issues. With a feet of over a dozen vehicles to maintain the syn oil lets me forget an oil change for a while.

I do like the rotella. Use it for winter 911 storage and in my diesel F250.

To my knowledge the Yamaha Grizzly, like my Kawasaki Prairie 700 has always had a CVT transmission. No wet clutch. You can use any quality automotive oil.

FWIW I run Valvoline or Mobil V-Twin oil. 10-40 in the winter (it'll see the teens duck hunting) and 20-50 in the summer (lots of slow riding in 100* heat). I don't worry about the cost much as we're only talking about two quarts twice a year. Including the filter that's about $15.

J

The Grizzlies do have a separate wet clutch that lives inside the engine/transmission case in the oil bath directly behind the CVT. This clutch disengages at very low RPMs (i.e. idle) so that no power is transmitted to the CVT. At RPMs above idle, this clutch essentially "locks" so that all power is transmitted to the CVT. This allows the Grizzlies to maintain contact between the drive belt and sheaves at all times rather than relying on a loose belt to slip at idle (wearing out the belt and sheaves and causing unnecessary heat). The wet clutch system prolongs the life of the belt and the sheaves and just works better than the clutch-less "slipping belt" systems such as your Kawaski.:D.

This special oil thing for a "wet clutch" is way over-rated....Back before that was even available, I ran two motorcycles to over 100,000 miles w/o changing a clutch. Always just a good grade of 10-40W oil and changed it every 3,000 miles......

My current main street bike has 94,500 miles.....I run Rotella synthetic in it changing every 5,000. Some said the clutch would slip with synthetic.....Never happened, clutch is good as new and engine runs like new. (Honda St-1300)

For specialty motorcycle oils, I would only worry about it in an Air-Cooled engine that spends a lot of time at low speed w/o much cooling air. Would maybe apply to some ATV work and a Harley cruiser that spends a lot of time in low speed traffic.

anything available - its all backward compatible - just make sure its the right viscosity.

So all the guys who reported slipping clutch when using the wrong oil...then goes away when they drain and full with cycle oil...crazy? I've never done it myself, but all these guys had an agenda? Just asking..

Just reporting my 45+ years, and over 600,000 miles of experience and with wet clutches. That's all, no agenda here. I'll go sit on the sidelines for the rest of this game.