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chainsaw question. bar/chain oiling.
i have an ECHO. it runs great and cuts fast and furious. i dont know if i just never noticed before, but it seems like most of the bar oil seeps out the bottom of the saw near the main sprocket. the bar flings very little oil.
i took it in and the guy turned up the oil dispersion with that little screw on the bottom. he told me to take it home and blast it with my air compressor. i cleaned the bar, the oil holes in the bar and the body of the saw. also gave the air cleaner a whoosh of air. compressor works great on cleaning. i used to wipe it with a rag like an idiot. it runs and revs like a little devil. but so much oil seem wasted out the bottom. is it supposed to oil the bar, or the actual teeth of the chain? |
I have three Echos, from the little homeowner one to the pro models. They all rev like monsters, and they all fling oil from the chain. It does sound like you have a leak somewhere, or perhaps there is TOO much oil coming from it?
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It oils the bar. The chain runs on the bar and needs the oil to lubercate or it will wear uneven.
What weight oil are you using? Too light of a weight oil and it will run out fast. |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328145862.jpg
The oil is pumped from a hole in the saw body into the round holes in the bar and then goes through a passage into the slot that the drive tangs of the chain run in. Your problem could be that the bar isn't sealing against the saw body because of dirt or something is warped, or the passage from the round hole to the slot in the bar is clogged. The bar on the right has a small hole that is used by some saws for the oil. Most saws have thin metal plates that fit on each side of the bar. These HAVE to be in place if you have a bar like this and a saw that pumps the oil into the larger holes. |
im using stihl bar oil.
mine has a hole in the bar that leads to the groove. seems like it is seeping from where the bar mashes against the matching hole in the chain body. |
Try using ECHO oil it may have a different viscosity
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or buy a Stihl saw and be done with your worries................
Sorry, there is no substitute........vibration, and parts availability. Signed, Dave owner of 4 stihls some 40 years old and stihl (sic!)running strong |
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Also, I use non-ethanol-laced gasoline and I drain the fuel and run the engine out of gas if the machine is going to sit for a while.
I guess......getting back to your question Vash, if the bar/chain is not getting enough oil, they will wear out more quickly. Not a huge problem. And if the machine is leaking where it shouldn't, then the problem is really just oil expense, right? Also a small matter. |
I'm a 20%-er. In fact I've just come in for a rest after doing a load of firewood with the Husqvarna 455 Rancher.
I like Husqvarnas because they are a lot quieter than a Stihl, and all my firewood is from places in town so I have to take noise into account. |
I hear they vibrate less, too. But Stihls are so light.......
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My chainsaws use a tank of chain oil per tank of gas. That's about normal so yours should do much the same. With the engine running full revs have the end of the whirling chain about 2" from a clean object and you should see it lightly spray painting it with loose oil. Also, with the motor stopped of course, lift the chain from the bar and it should look oily where it runs in the grove.
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The Stihl 260 has an amazing power to weight ratio. A real beast :) |
never meant this to be a stihl vs husky vs echo thread..but :D my echo destroyed, well out worked 2 stihls in the mountains cutting wood. i think i keep my gear sharper, but i was out cutting them by a noticable margin. or they were sandbagging.
out husky in the group burned a coil or something.. it never ran again. my shop carries all three brands. the echo is the most economical of the bunch. perfect for my very occasional use. if i was working more..i would get a stihl. they seem lighter. |
Vash, PM me your shipping address and I will send you the best bar oil for your spinblade.
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Here is my little pile of wood I got this morning, hehe, I'm quite proud of it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328150509.jpg |
I've used, not owned Husky saws.........Husq are awesome TORQUE, Stihls rock the RPM world..........
Stihl, the one and only, might as well tout a Craftsman or Harbor Freight thingy with a rotating chain bit. Vibration is where many people don't have a clue........must be their numb fore-arms....... If you live in a condo and say saw once every 3 years.............then Brand X may do you fine.........meanwhile the Main Dawg is a Stihl. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1322332400.jpg |
bill and rusty..i'll shut up about my hobby saw now...
WOW!! that is awesome. |
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Take the bar off. Inspect the oil holes in the bar. Clean them out with a piece of wire.
Also get all the saw dust out of the groves that the chain runs in (wire again). I'm not familiar with the Echo ( have a Husky and a Stihl ) but when reassembling the bar make sure the oil hole to the bar isn't blocked by the mounting hardware. |
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I did a three day use and safety of chainsaws course. And to cut a long story short; to be safe NEVER be looking straight down at the blade when you are using it. You should be slightly to the left so when (not if) it kicks back it flicks up harmlessly over your right shoulder, not in you face :eek: |
I didn't notice very much difference between Stihl or Echo, to be perfectly honest, once you make the jump to pro level equipment. I cut literally thousands of trees last month with my Echo, and it impressed the hell out of me. I'm sure a Stihl pro model would have been fine too.
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i do love my echo..it is the little saw that can. |
Haha, you got me.
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Do you have oil spray off the chain in a forward motion on the tip of the saw when you rev it up? You can test this holidng it up against a fresh cut. If you don't you don't have enough lube IMHO.
G |
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As far as the oil thing.....if it is spitting oil off the tip of the bar when revved, then the bar and chain are getting oil. If it us using too much too quickly, costing me too much money or making me stop to refill the oil tank before a tank of gas is used, then maybe I'd worry about fixing it. Otherwise, I'd saw wood. |
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1. throttle it all the way up with a good hard squeeze 2. shove the power unit into yer crotch 3. dip the bar (and its fast-movin' chain) into a 55 gallon drum of bar oil and Let 'er Rip! |
I didn't read the whole thread so someone may have already said this. If u just use old motor oil from your cars oil changes it's a lot easier to through a bunch of oil
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Vash,
They all leak but you can try and just turn it down a little. Should be a small spring loaded screw under the clutch cover. No matter what over time chainsaws leak. You should try the tractor supply brand oil if you want thicker and tacky. |
I have a Husqvuarna Rancher that I bought 20 years ago.I used it to cut down willow trees 20 years ago and now they are too big to cut down. The Husqy got sporadic use, I even forgot to put the oil in the gas. It ran hot till I noticed what I had done. Then added the oil to the gas and runs like new. Yes there is a chain brake which I test every time before I use this saw. Does that guarantee that you are not going to get hit in the face with a runaway chain? However not looking down the chain makes sense.(Thanks for the tip). I am amazed at the amount of work a chain saw can do. I have an axe but it makes for tough sledding. While I think of it the chain oil slowly leaks out when not in use.
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i took the saw in..they actually turned it a tad up. now the oil tank empties before the fuel tank. not so good.
lubey sent me a bottle of magic oil. unlabeled, so it is a mystery. havent tried it yet. |
I have an old German Makita chainsaw. They are the same as the Sachs Dolmar saws. I turned down the oiler almost all the way and it still oils sufficiently. I would consider turning it down yourself.
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