Step Advice

[wdfifteen]

I need a step in front of an 8 foot sliding glass door. The step is 11 feet long. I threw a 2x12 in place for the winter and it is proving to be too narrow. For some reason there is a tendency for people to step right on the edge or partially miss it. Also, the 2x12 is already starting to warp. I don't know where to get a single piece of lumber 14 inches wide and if I went that route I'm afraid it would warp. I need suggestions for something to make a single piece 11 feet long, 14 inch wide step out of of.

[scottmandue]

I live a block from the ocean and if I ever did any decking I would use that new plastic wood... looks almost like real wood and won't rot or warp.

Not sure what sizes it comes in... maybe a couple 2X6's or 2X8's or a combination?

[Dueller]

Build a form and pour concrete. Your could stain and score it or inlay stone. More expensive but it won't warp.

[krystar]

and i learned from HGTV that the step should be just barely tilting away from the house for water drainage.

synthetic decking planks is good strong stuff.

[island911]

Originally Posted by krystar

..

synthetic decking planks is good strong stuff.

it's tough . . .but not all that strong. That is, it wears well, but must be supported more than wood decking. ....esp in warmer climates, else it will sag.

[VincentVega]

I made a similar step by building 2 boxes out of pressure treated lumber. Instead of trying to find a ~14" board just use 2-3 smaller piece, 4" boards with a little space between each should do it.

[turbo6bar]

Two 2x8s would give you 3+ inches of extra tread.

You also want to pay attention to the height. You'll want the steps to be equal height, with residential code recommending no greater than 7 3/4" height. If the step down from the door threshold is greater than 8", I can see how it might be cumbersome.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

I made a similar step by building 2 boxes out of pressure treated lumber. Instead of trying to find a ~14" board just use 2-3 smaller piece, 4" boards with a little space between each should do it.

I've been trying to avoid that because the area under the step will not be accessible for cleaning. Water and dirt will accumulate and rot the step support from the inside out.
I can't use concrete because the building codes won't allow me to pour concrete against the band board.
The steps are both 7 1/2 inches high. I think the reason people tend to step long is that they have to step over the door threshold and the tracks for the sliding door.

[RWebb]

local code here requires a platform, not just a step - I guess now I know why

you may want to build a small platform out of decking

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

I've been trying to avoid that because the area under the step will not be accessible for cleaning. Water and dirt will accumulate and rot the step support from the inside out.
I can't use concrete because the building codes won't allow me to pour concrete against the band board.
The steps are both 7 1/2 inches high. I think the reason people tend to step long is that they have to step over the door threshold and the tracks for the sliding door.

Water and dirt are going to get under there anyway, so do the 2) 2 x 6's or 2 x 8's. Less warp and cupping not to mention better traction.

And you can use concrete or masonry if you place a barrier against the band board. One of the best I've seen is a thin piece of copper backed with bituthane.

I agree that the use of Trex or other composites is the better way to go if you use wood like construction.

Furthermore, Webb is right, something on the order of 24" would be a lot more comfortable for users. If you watch people enter and exit a doorway that has a track or high threshold, they tend to step over it.

At least that's been my observation in over 25 years of installing doors.

About the code: sliders are exempt, but any swinging door must have a step or landing no more than 1" below the finish inside floor. For sliders it is permissible to have the step down as much as 8" providing the stepping distance is equal from the step to grade. So, if it's 15" from the inside floor to grade, your step shall be 7 1/2". This is according to the UBC, the western US code.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by Zeke

Water and dirt are going to get under there anyway, so do the 2) 2 x 6's or 2 x 8's. Less warp and cupping not to mention better traction.

And you can use concrete or masonry if you place a barrier against the band board. One of the best I've seen is a thin piece of copper backed with bituthane.

I agree that the use of Trex or other composites is the better way to go if you use wood like construction.

Furthermore, Webb is right, something on the order of 24" would be a lot more comfortable for users. If you watch people enter and exit a doorway that has a track or high threshold, they tend to step over it.

At least that's been my observation in over 25 years of installing doors.

About the code: sliders are exempt, but any swinging door must have a step or landing no more than 1" below the finish inside floor. For sliders it is permissible to have the step down as much as 8" providing the stepping distance is equal from the step to grade. So, if it's 15" from the inside floor to grade, your step shall be 7 1/2". This is according to the UBC, the western US code.

I would like to make it 24" but it's not possible. 15 is about the most I can get away with. I'll probably go with 2 2x6s and a 2x4 and leave some space near the concrete deck for air circulation so it can dry out. It should be OK if I use pressure treated wood. I don't want it to look like a deck, but it looks like I don't have a lot of choice.
The county engineer already said an emphatic no to pouring a concrete step against the wood.
If I understand you about the 1" step, every exterior door in my house and a couple of interior doors violate the code. Two new doors installed this summer (7" and 4" steps) passed inspection in August.

[RWebb]

ah... but did they violate the existing code at the time they were put in?

[VincentVega]

I've been trying to avoid that because the area under the step will not be accessible for cleaning. Water and dirt will accumulate and rot the step support from the inside out.

I've had mine in place now for 10 yrs. Pressure treated lumber from HD, nothing fancy. A couple times a year I flip it over and sweep out a few leaves.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

I've had mine in place now for 10 yrs. Pressure treated lumber from HD, nothing fancy. A couple times a year I flip it over and sweep out a few leaves.

Yes, I was really hoping to avoid that, but it looks like that's where it's going. Make it like a small deck, make it removable, take it out and clean it a couple times a year. Ugh!

[Zeke]

I mentioned it was a UBC code. UBC has jurisdiction over most building west of the Mississippi. Yes, you cannot have an elevation change inside at a door. It's dangerous. I have a house that I visit often and miss that step every time. One place I see a drop off of about 4" is the door to an attached garage. It usually swings in, so there may be the exception.

I'll have to look at my code book. But you are not covered me thinks by the UBC (Uniform Building Code administered by ICBO).

[azasadny]

We made our patio step from poured concree with bricks on the sides and we textured the concrete so nobody slips. Works well...

[RWebb]

1st thing, be sure your area follows the UBC - some cities will enhance beyond it - if so, you may fail inspection or in some places even have issues when trying to sell the place

[azasadny]

This is what our step to the back patio looks like. We poured it and put bricks along the outside to match the patio. I don't have the measurements handy, but then we stained, sealed and put "no slip" strips on it and it works very well. Good luck!

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by azasadny

This is what our step to the back patio looks like. We poured it and put bricks along the outside to match the patio. I don't have the measurements handy, but then we stained, sealed and put "no slip" strips on it and it works very well. Good luck!

This is great... I especially like the "no slip" strips.

[azasadny]

Peter,
Thanks! I was surprised that the "no slip strips" have stayed on and worked as well as they do. The textured concrete looks "slippery", but it's not, even when wet or icy (like today).