Classic Mustang Resources?
 

Paul will love this thread......;)

As I posted here, I lost my grandfather about six months ago. He was the single biggest influence in my life, and I can trace most of my interests and positive attributes back to him, particularly my love of aviation and cars. My fondest memories include flying in his Beechcraft Bonanza and riding in his 1970 Mustang convertible. I have my chance at the Mustang if I want it, which I do. I looked at it yesterday and it was a flashback to my childhood, I love the thought of taking my kids for a ride in it just like he did me.

So, sentimental stuff aside, I'm probably getting a 1970 Mustang convertible, 302 2bbl, automatic, red over white with a white top. My dad drove it briefly to move it and tells me that the exhaust is shot, the brakes are nearly frozen up, the driver's side window track or regulator is messed up, needs new seat vinyl, needs a new top, needs new door cards, and needs an ignition switch. On the upside my grandfather fixed the rust decades ago, the interior is mostly good, the drivetrain is solid (but original), and it has a decent respray. So what are the go to recourses for information and parts? I'm aware of NPD and Google finds about a million more, what is the Pelican of classic Mustangs?

Virginia Classic Mustang - Mustang Parts

This was the goto parts place when I was into mustangs.

Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Mustang Parts & Performance - American Muscle - Free Shipping!

MustangForums.com Mustang Forums

Ford Mustang - GT - Shelby - Cobra - Classic Mustangs

Switches, Trim Panels items in Greenleaf Prime Salvage store on eBay!

The internet Mustang sources are HUGE. This only scratches the surface, but should get you started.

Tousley Ford is a highly regarded parts source for Bullitt owners, not sure how much they have for a '70 though.

I have a '67 coupe that I'm (infrequently) working on...trying to do the restomod/trans am thing. I've been going here: Vintage Mustang Forums . Nicest surprise; parts prices. Largest disappointment; some of the forum postings must be made by folks with extra chromosomes.

I've been pricing parts, they are insanely cheap! Engine rebuild kit for $350? Replace every suspension bushing, joint, shocks, and springs for just a little over $500? I can handle this.....

Insanely cheap with alot of really good quality as well (not all vendors - pick and choose). Everything you want, might want, didn't know you wanted - it's out there for those cars.

angela

I might know a little about them.

There's stangnet and the coral as well.

What's your goal with the car?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330321611.jpg
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Jim, my goal is to make it a fun driver, improving on the original without ruining its original character. I'd like to add some bracing and upgrade the suspension, but I want it to still be comfortable on the street. I'd love some feedback on that topic, as I'm not sure where to start. I don't envision any track time with it.

I'd like to restore the cosmetics without getting too far away from original, it needs seat covers, a new top, door panels, and a few other oddball things. I will be adding a set of Torq Thrust wheels (or similar) and modern tires. As far as I know the drivetrain is still the totally original 302 2bbl and automatic, you still have to add lead to the gas so it may be unrebuilt. Eventually I'd like to do some sort of performance rebuild, near term I'll look at what bolt on options are available. I suspect it has drums so I'd like to convert to discs, especially since the brakes are already shot.

Yours, by the way, is fantastic. How does it ride on the street?

Matt,

Sounds like a great opportunity! Did your Grandfather buy it new?

I'd love to see some pictures.

Torque Thrust? For a modern version, check here. Measure carefully...these custom made for backspace.

Wheelsforless - Product Catalog - Search Result Page

Matt,

What I would do is add bracing from the shock towers. If you want to add plenty of stiffness there's a 23 piece kit from Dr. Gas. They include shock towers from the inside and the outside, There's other plates that stiffen the footwell area and the sub-frame. These Mustangs are made up of folded sheet metal. I would say that most of the sheet metal is in the 16 gauge or thinner.

Don't worry about high rate of spring rate. GT springs are plenty soft around 500#'s I ran 900 pound springs on the front. Rear springs are 160# and I had 250# springs. It rode like a honda civic.

Other area of flex is the rear shackles for the leaf springs I had 1/4 plate aluminum shackles that had 1/2" bolts vs. the tiny stamped steel ones with 7/16" bolts.

Front A-arms can get the "Shelby drop" it changes the arc of the a-arms as the wheel rises. There's a strut that locates the lower a-arm Don't get fancy with aftermarket bushings, There's a bind in the system and you will crack the mounts if your bushing is too stiff.

A really cool race shop on the east coast is Cobra Automotive. YES, you want to keep the car as stock as you can, they can help you make it safer to drive.

Good news is that the bugs of the early cars are worked out by 1970! That and they no longer had a solid non collapsing steering shaft like '67 and older.

Paul, I know he didn't buy it new. I need to check with my grandmother but I believe it was 1979. I know he's had it as long as I can remember.

No pictures right now, I need to get it home but there's a pesky 996 in my garage right now. I'm hoping to have it gone within a month to make room for the new project.

I'm a big fan of the Torq Thrust D, I think they look great on the classic Mustang and the gray center/polished lip would look really good on the red car.

My son has a 66 notch back that he is "fixin' up". He has a new front after market (not cheep) suspension on order.

At the moment it is up on a rack at the body shop. I wandered around underneath it. If ever a car needed seam welding, that is it and it has very little rust being a CA car (blasted & semi-primed). The assembly is gnarly. He says he can't DIY it (& the shop hours would kill him).....neither could I before I did my 914 (which was a LOT more well assembled).

I think DOD lost out on that argument. He's spending a fair amount of cash on the thing......347 & 5 speed. Telling him the foundation is the most important didn't cut it. "It's a street car, dad.".....yeah,well.... I won't disown him.:D

Jim, thanks for the feedback. I need to do a LOT of research, but with it being a convertible some chassis stiffening is going to be essential. I'll ping you once I think I know what I want to do, since it seems that you've been there done that. A couple questions:

What are the best books/manuals for these cars?
I assume from your above post that you don't recommend polyurethane bushings? The Energy kit is tempting because it's priced well and all-encompassing, but I also don't want a harsh ride or squeaking.
What did you do on yours for brakes?

Come on Wayne, you know you want too.

Pelican Parts; Mustang section

my friend had a 69. not much change for the 70 car right? i love those years.

1970 front end is a little different, it has vents on the outboard corners and the lights moved inboard a bit. Probably some other differences too, I'm no expert. 1970 was the last year of what I consider to be the real classic Mustangs, after that they started growing bigger and got weird looking.

That is exactly the way I'd do it, not that it matters, but the original character is so key. Speeder and I were discussing this on the phone a few days ago (I'm looking for a 60s/70s Targa) and I want what the 356 I own now has: great mechanics, reasonable patina and all the drive you want for it's age.

I'm looking forward to watching this progress, Matt. The car simply could not be in better hands.

Well, I just gotta say it.
 

Matt, welcome to the dark side...SmileWavy

I knew that was coming. :)

Nice for you to be getting something that has been in family.

Having oned my '66 since 1991, I call tell you that most jobs are pretty simple.

Like others have mentioned, I have used most of the major vedors out there. For stock parts, I like VA Mustang. I have neve really had good experience with NPD, but that may just be me. Since most of the vendors get their stuff from the same place, now I shop around a lot more.

I have a set f the Torque thrust D's in 16x8 on the back of my Mustang, but they are just a bit too wide. I know they only make 16x7's now and they fit a lot better.

Looking forward to seeing the pctures.

Bill

Here's a long thread you may find interesting...the making of a Bullitt Replica...
My son's future Bullitt - IMBOC

Matt,

I got most of my restoration parts from these three vendors:

Mustangs Unlimited - Mustang Parts Superstore - FREE shipping!
Mustang Parts from Mustang Depot, Ford Mustang Parts 1965-2013
Tony D. Branda 1965-73 Mustang Parts 1965-70 Shelby Parts & Accessories

All three gave great service and quick and cost effective shipping. Good luck with your new toy! If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

My 65' pictured below. Built original 289; T-5 5 spd; nine inch Ford rear end with Dutchman axles; Caltrac traction bars; Global West frame connectors; 16" Vintage wheels; Autometer gauges; and other goodies.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330387144.jpg

I'm not sure if anyone has the in-depth how-to-do like Pelican but the three Iceman listed are the ones I used several years ago when I was putting my car together. I also used JJ's Classic Mustang Parts Inc, Chattanooga, Tennessee just because he's somewhat local to me. At the moment, I have 15x7 Torque Thrust D's but the tire selection isn't the best so I recommend looking into what tires are available for 16x7. You should be able to keep a comfortable ride with the 16's.

You mentioned brakes earlier but I'm not sure if you have drum or disk on the front. Disk brakes (single piston) for your car will be easier on the wallet to freshen-up or convert over than what I'm running (4-piston). Good luck with your project!

Before spending any money on a classic Mustang converible. I would have the car towed to a shop and have the unibody carefully examined for rust. The converts seem to be more rust prone than either the coupe or fastback. Torque boxes,inner and outer rocker panels,floors etc can all be pretty mushy even in a southern car. Most converts are still worth repairing even when very rusty . Parts are cheap but the car will need lots of them if it,s been sitting a long time. Have fun.
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I'll make sure I look into the rust, thanks for the heads up. I remember my grandfather telling me he had rust fixed when he bought it, I think it was rockers and behind the back wheels. Its been garaged since his purchase and only driven on nice days, so I'm hopeful there's not much. Frankly I'll fix it regardless, because of the sentimental value this is one car I'm ok with being upside down on. I think it would be awesome to pass it down to one of my sons some day.

1970 southern example shouldn,t be the worst for rust. There were two design problems which caused a great deal of the rust they did have. One was the roof drained into the rocker panel at the rear side window area. Instead of a tube to direct any runnoff. If the rocker drains were clogged with leaves then the " wet mulch" caused rust there.This also happens to the cowl area) and any other area where water was allowed to sit. The second cause had to do with the primitive or non existant sealers and rustproofing of the era. That affected all cars built then but unibodies more than a full frame car can be compromised from a safety standpoint.

I've found a 1969 that's the same theme as what I'm considering:

http://www.mustangdepot.com/Media/im.../RobStang1.JPG

Relatively clean and unadorned, slightly oversized Torq Thrust derivative wheels with modern blackwall tires, sporty suspension with a good stance. There's a baffling array of choices available for all things Mustang, but here's what I'm thinking for mine:

Exterior - retain white top (red exterior). No stripes, no hood scoop, no side scoop. Add Boss style lower front spoiler. 15" or 16" Torq Thrust style wheel (leaning towards gray center D). Shelby style hoop roll bar to enhance safety, stiffen the flexy convertible, and it looks cool.:)

Suspension - million choices here. Some variety of performance street stiffer front coil and rear leaf, Shelby upper arm mod, 1" front sway bar, replace all old rubber bushings, roller perches, export brace, Monte Carlo bar.

Interior - bone stock. It needs new seat vinyl, a new top, new door panels and arm rests. I think the LH window track also needs repaired. If it doesn't have them I'll be adding 3 point belts.

Engine - exhaust system is shot, so I'll be installing some variety of dual exhaust with an x-pipe and turndown rear tips to keep it subtle. I need to do a compression test to assess the health of the engine, as I believe it to be original and un-rebuilt (still needs lead additive). If healthy I'll be adding a Pertronix electronic ignition, some variety of 4 bbl carb and intake, and maybe some other mild stuff like a cam or headers. I need to research the potential of the motor to determine if I'm wasting my time without a rebuild.

Brakes - after some reading I'm pretty sure it has factory front disc brakes, I remember the little disc logo on the brake pedal. Right now I plan to replace the rubber lines, rebuild the calipers, rebuild the drums, replace the rotors, and replace the pads. Considering how cheap they are I might replace the master cylinder for good measure.

I don't have it yet, so I'm sure there's more. Other obvious stuff is draining all old fluids and refilling, basic tune up, etc. I need to get this pesky 996 out of my garage so I can get started!

Sounds like a sound plan. Here is a picture of the 16x8 American racing Torque Thrust D's I have on the back of my 1966.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331152855.jpg

Mostly agree with your plan. The chassis in the convertibles is not very stiff even with the factory reinforcing which was done. I would use a 1" front swaybar and the " A arm relocation Shelby drop" along with good shocks and tires. You can,t use much stiffer springs without the body becoming the spring in a convert,but you can benefit from stiffening with an export brace and monte carlo bar.
There is a new style integrated power steering from Borgeson I have added to my 1966. I don,t remember if your 70 is the last year for the old PS system .If it has a slave cylinder and valve hung on the linkage as an afterthought then the Borgeson system is cheaper and better than rebuilding the leaky original system

So would you suggest skipping the stiffer springs? Based on the way these things tend to sit nose high I assumed that 1" lowering springs plus the 0.5" drop from the Shelby mod along with a 1" drop rear leaf would yield a good stance and handling.

I restored a GT equipped 66 convert years ago. It came with about 25% stiffer factory springs,7/8 front bar ,quick steering, and disc brakes. It was decent performer for the vintage but not nearly the stiff platform my 1966 fastback is. I would replace the shocks and perished rubber bushings before bothering with the springs unless they are obviously sagged. The Shelby drop is worthwhile as it requires no parts and lowers the front about 1/2 "while improving the camber curve. If the car has a nose high attitude now then your rear leaf springs might be sagged. If you do replace them , just don,t go too stiff with replacements.(stick with 4 leaf springs and GT front coils.) >The convert will have the door gaps opening and closing over bumps as is.

Gotcha, thanks. Anything to be gained with the Shelby convertible roll bar or subframe connectors?

i,ve no experience with a roll bar but it would be safer in a roll over. I have tried subframe connectors and couldn,t feel much difference in a convert after adding them.
The 66 fastback I have had subframe ties added by a previous owner so I can,t compare it to one without them.

connected connectors would add the most rigidity

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Now thats what its all about! Cherish it and enjoy - Scot